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Thread: Making that Bullet Collator

  1. #7141
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by comhertz View Post
    Thanks. I’ll try option 3.

    Found these. Right size? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08M45D6F2...XV0VN8RC43JGFB

    Also what size pin? 4mm?
    Yes. 1/8"x1"

  2. #7142
    Boolit Mold
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    Thanks.

  3. #7143
    Boolit Bub
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    Dear Team !
    What would you say is the minimum recommended size (Amp) on the power supply when running M634JS motor ?
    M634JS requires 0.3 A normal operation and approx. 1.6 A max (jams etc.).
    Have a ton of old 12 VDC 2 A power supplies laying around and would be nice if they can be re-used. Feedback appreciated.
    Med vänliga hälsningar/Best Regards
    ///Roger

  4. #7144
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rogerandre View Post
    Dear Team !
    What would you say is the minimum recommended size (Amp) on the power supply when running M634JS motor ?
    M634JS requires 0.3 A normal operation and approx. 1.6 A max (jams etc.).
    Have a ton of old 12 VDC 2 A power supplies laying around and would be nice if they can be re-used. Feedback appreciated.
    Med vänliga hälsningar/Best Regards
    ///Roger
    If is was mine, I'd use them. That's why Tyler created the clutch. If you get a jam, the center keeps turning, so really there is not jam, unless you set the clutch way too tight. I test my collators by sticking something in a hole to purposely jam it.....and if the center doesn't continue turning it's too tight.....loosen it.

  5. #7145
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GWS View Post
    If is was mine, I'd use them. That's why Tyler created the clutch. If you get a jam, the center keeps turning, so really there is not jam, unless you set the clutch way too tight. I test my collators by sticking something in a hole to purposely jam it.....and if the center doesn't continue turning it's too tight.....loosen it.
    2A is enough to run the collator.

  6. #7146
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TylerR View Post
    2A is enough to run the collator.
    I got the idea he was worried about it being too much and destructive in case of a jam. With a clutch, no chance of that.

  7. #7147
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    Quote Originally Posted by TylerR View Post
    2A is enough to run the collator.
    Huge thanks TylerR and GWS
    Rock Hard !

  8. #7148
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    Hello All
    Fairly new to metallic reloading. Have been acquiring the needed equipment and components for reloading mainly 9mm and .223/5.56 ammo. Along the way I have started doing some 3D printing to enhance the processes to allow for larger volumes brass to be processed. Originally came across this case/bullet feeder system, but opted to print a smaller version of a case feeder I found while trying to learn the ins and outs of 3D printing. Still have a lot to learn. I have not learned all I need to know about modifying a part design. I can generally start from scratch and make something different to replace a piece if it is fairly straightforward.

    What I'm wondering is ? Can someone modify the Drop Tube Adapter 10 and Drop Tube Adapter 14 to fit the LEE Multi Tube Feeder Tubes. Here is a link to the Lee website giving the tube OD and ID sizes. They are Part # BF3490 & BF3489. The thru ID size is okay on the adapters, it's just the ID size that the tube slides into is to big. I made a thin wall bushing for the Drop Tube Adapter 10 to the BF3490 OD size. But after several times of sliding the tube in and out. It split between layers due to how thin it actually is.

    https://leeprecision.com/parts-reloa...e-feeder-parts

    I had printed the APP brass insert for .223 to use with the other collator. It has the correct size for the BF3490 tube to slide in with a somewhat slip fit. That is what I was hoping to do with this collator also.

    Sorry for the long post. Just trying to fully explain what I was trying to accomplish. If I have just overlooked the correct Adapter, please let me know. Any help or info would be greatly appreciated.

  9. #7149
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by XDrebel View Post
    Hello All
    Fairly new to metallic reloading. Have been acquiring the needed equipment and components for reloading mainly 9mm and .223/5.56 ammo. Along the way I have started doing some 3D printing to enhance the processes to allow for larger volumes brass to be processed. Originally came across this case/bullet feeder system, but opted to print a smaller version of a case feeder I found while trying to learn the ins and outs of 3D printing. Still have a lot to learn. I have not learned all I need to know about modifying a part design. I can generally start from scratch and make something different to replace a piece if it is fairly straightforward.

    What I'm wondering is ? Can someone modify the Drop Tube Adapter 10 and Drop Tube Adapter 14 to fit the LEE Multi Tube Feeder Tubes. Here is a link to the Lee website giving the tube OD and ID sizes. They are Part # BF3490 & BF3489. The thru ID size is okay on the adapters, it's just the ID size that the tube slides into is to big. I made a thin wall bushing for the Drop Tube Adapter 10 to the BF3490 OD size. But after several times of sliding the tube in and out. It split between layers due to how thin it actually is.

    https://leeprecision.com/parts-reloa...e-feeder-parts

    I had printed the APP brass insert for .223 to use with the other collator. It has the correct size for the BF3490 tube to slide in with a somewhat slip fit. That is what I was hoping to do with this collator also.

    Sorry for the long post. Just trying to fully explain what I was trying to accomplish. If I have just overlooked the correct Adapter, please let me know. Any help or info would be greatly appreciated.
    Use the APP_Drop_Tube_Adapters here:
    https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/tree/main/8.%20APP

  10. #7150
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    Quote Originally Posted by TylerR View Post
    Use the APP_Drop_Tube_Adapters here:
    https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/tree/main/8.%20APP
    Then these adapters are not made to be inserted and twist locked into the drop tube like the adapters I was wanting modified to fit the LEE tubes ?

  11. #7151
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    Just a humble future enhancement request when time permits: Moving the size of the drop tube down so the number is visible when the proximity housing is in place. Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_3601.jpg 
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ID:	325346

  12. #7152
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    Quote Originally Posted by XDrebel View Post
    Then these adapters are not made to be inserted and twist locked into the drop tube like the adapters I was wanting modified to fit the LEE tubes ?
    I modified this several months ago. Is this what you are looking for?
    Attached Files Attached Files

  13. #7153
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    Quote Originally Posted by M500 View Post
    I modified this several months ago. Is this what you are looking for?
    Thank you for the reply M500. I downloaded the file and printed it. Yes this one works with the BF3489 tube which is what I use when processing 9mm cases, I was also wanting 1 that fits the BF3490 tube which is 10mm thru and the tube size is 11.3mm.

    Can you tell me what software you use to do your modifications. I have only had a small amount of experience using Fusion 360 because that is one of the software's used where I work. Unfortunely the programmer that used it, is no longer there for me to get any help. But I have not had any luck using it to modify an stl file. I can figure out most of the time how to model and create basic parts from scratch. Just haven't gotten it all figured out yet.

    Thanks again





    o

  14. #7154
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    XD, I have been using freecad to do my modifying. I primarily use the part workbench. You can import an stl as a mesh. Then create shape from mesh, then convert to solid. Then you can run Boolean operations on it. Its not fool proof by any means. It often struggles to do radiuses or chamfers on imported stls. To many triangles for it to process. More complex files take a while to process. The file I posted earlier had a 7.3mm radius for its ID.

  15. #7155
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    Quote Originally Posted by M500 View Post
    XD, I have been using freecad to do my modifying. I primarily use the part workbench. You can import an stl as a mesh. Then create shape from mesh, then convert to solid. Then you can run Boolean operations on it. Its not fool proof by any means. It often struggles to do radiuses or chamfers on imported stls. To many triangles for it to process. More complex files take a while to process. The file I posted earlier had a 7.3mm radius for its ID.
    M500 Thanks for the info. Will look into it. My problem is I'm an old dog trying to learn to many new things all at the same time. Been a machinist for 44 yrs. The last 30 yrs as a CNC machinist. Done years of programming parts from blueprints using Mazatrol Conversational Programming. Now trying to learn to use CAD/CAM software and all the ins and outs of 3D printing has been a lot to learn. I haven't found any of the software that is as easy to use as what the Mazatrol was in my opinion.

  16. #7156
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by XDrebel View Post
    M500 Thanks for the info. Will look into it. My problem is I'm an old dog trying to learn to many new things all at the same time. Been a machinist for 44 yrs. The last 30 yrs as a CNC machinist. Done years of programming parts from blueprints using Mazatrol Conversational Programming. Now trying to learn to use CAD/CAM software and all the ins and outs of 3D printing has been a lot to learn. I haven't found any of the software that is as easy to use as what the Mazatrol was in my opinion.
    All depends on what you first learn on. Me it was Autocad.....but forget that unless your workplace has it. Super expensive. They all have their great, mediocre and terrible features.....too bad they can't get together a make a perfect one.....but then people are wired different and what's perfect for me won't be for you.

    Since this project came about, in the interest of helping TylerR, I somewhat learned and use DSM (DesignSpark Mechanical) It was like learning Chinese.....but I get by now.....and what I do is compatible with and so helps ease the load Tyler has, if and when he wants to combine a few things.

    But whatever you guys use, it can be made to work if you have the dimensions to start with. So I went to Lee Precision, got their tube dimensions, and went from there:

    First off the 3489 tube is what they've been using for a long long time.....9/16" Outside Diameter (OD).

    Lee says it measures .562" OD, .488" ID. (same tube I've used for years from Lee aquarium supply, called Lee Thinwall 9/16" ) That tube with 1/32" walls was 1/2" ID........so if you convert the decimals above to fractions you will get the same.

    The 3490 tube Lee Precision says is .445" OD and .401 ID......that's a problem....because if that's right the walls are 1/64"!!

    So that would make them 7/16" OD and 13/32" ID! Guess if you have one you could measure it.....but that's pretty flimsy tube if true.

    Regular Lee Aquarium thin wall in the next smaller size has been 1/2" OD and 7/16" ID. But no more....I think they are getting some of their tubing from China now and China tubing is metric. Yes it used to be so simple....now it's a madhouse....and no guarantees the tubing telescopes into each other like they did only 2 years ago.

    But with the measurements I got from L.Precision you ought to be able to add a MM to the diameter of the Adaptors and they should fit whatever you have.

    But then you need them in metric.

    3490 tube is 11.30mm OD / 10.185 ID. So I'd make my adapter for that 12.30mm ID for .5mm or minimum 11.8mm for .25mm over-size all around. Similarly....

    3489 tube is 14.275mm OD / 12.40mm ID. For .5mm over-size all around 15.275 ID / .25mm over-size all around, 14.725mm.

    Now then did you see the TylerR "clear tube adapters?" First listed....



    Notice that they don't have funneled entrances as do his spring adapters (second picture). But you don't want funnels for what you are doing or you get offset tubes for things to hang on when the tubes fill.



    Modifying the unbeveled ones are easy in DSM you just change the top and bottom hole diameters.
    Last edited by GWS; 04-04-2024 at 07:50 PM.

  17. #7157
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    Quote Originally Posted by M500 View Post
    Took a guess at the smaller one. I don't have that tubing to test.
    Thanks M500. Just Downloaded and will print when I get the chance. Have a busy schedule the next few days.

  18. #7158
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    Quote Originally Posted by GWS View Post
    All depends on what you first learn on. Me it was Autocad.....but forget that unless your workplace has it. Super expensive. They all have their great, mediocre and terrible features.....too bad they can't get together a make a perfect one.....but then people are wired different and what's perfect for me won't be for you.

    Since this project came about, in the interest of helping TylerR, I somewhat learned and use DSM (DesignSpark Mechanical) It was like learning Chinese.....but I get by now.....and what I do is compatible with and so helps ease the load Tyler has, if and when he wants to combine a few things.

    But whatever you guys use, it can be made to work if you have the dimensions to start with. So I went to Lee Precision, got their tube dimensions, and went from there:

    First off the 3489 tube is what they've been using for a long long time.....9/16" Outside Diameter (OD).

    Lee says it measures .562" OD, .488" ID. (same tube I've used for years from Lee aquarium supply, called Lee Thinwall 9/16" ) That tube with 1/32" walls was 1/2" ID........so if you convert the decimals above to fractions you will get the same.

    The 3490 tube Lee Precision says is .445" OD and .401 ID......that's a problem....because if that's right the walls are 1/64"!!

    So that would make them 7/16" OD and 13/32" ID! Guess if you have one you could measure it.....but that's pretty flimsy tube if true.

    Regular Lee Aquarium thin wall in the next smaller size has been 1/2" OD and 7/16" ID. But no more....I think they are getting some of their tubing from China now and China tubing is metric. Yes it used to be so simple....now it's a madhouse....and no guarantees the tubing telescopes into each other like they did only 2 years ago.

    But with the measurements I got from L.Precision you ought to be able to add a MM to the diameter of the Adaptors and they should fit whatever you have.

    But then you need them in metric.

    3490 tube is 11.30mm OD / 10.185 ID. So I'd make my adapter for that 12.30mm ID for .5mm or minimum 11.8mm for .25mm over-size all around. Similarly....

    3489 tube is 14.275mm OD / 12.40mm ID. For .5mm over-size all around 15.275 ID / .25mm over-size all around, 14.725mm.

    Now then did you see the TylerR "clear tube adapters?" First listed....



    Notice that they don't have funneled entrances as do his spring adapters (second picture). But you don't want funnels for what you are doing or you get "shelves" for things to hang on when the tubes fill.



    Modifying the unbeveled ones are easy in DSM you just change the top and bottom hole diameters.
    GWS the Clear tube adapters were originally the ones I printed and was wondering if someone could just modify to fit the Lee tubes. I have not figured out the process of loading up the stl and getting it converted back to a solid to be able to modify it. I'm going to try the ones M500 did.

  19. #7159
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by XDrebel View Post
    GWS the Clear tube adapters were originally the ones I printed and was wondering if someone could just modify to fit the Lee tubes. I have not figured out the process of loading up the stl and getting it converted back to a solid to be able to modify it. I'm going to try the ones M500 did.
    Give me till tomorrow. I will post something.

  20. #7160
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    Quote Originally Posted by XDrebel View Post
    Thanks M500. Just Downloaded and will print when I get the chance. Have a busy schedule the next few days.
    I realized I miscalculated on that last one I posted. Try this one instead. It should be close. Not sure what you are doing, weather you need the beveled entry or not.
    Attached Files Attached Files

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check