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Thread: Making that Bullet Collator

  1. #6381
    Boolit Mold
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    First part printed, unfortunately the green filment only lasted to about 70%, but final result wasn’t to bad anyway.

  2. #6382
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    I'll say not....if you hadn't said different, I would have thought you did that on purpose! Looks great!

  3. #6383
    Boolit Mold
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    Quote Originally Posted by TylerR View Post
    You do actually want to print it as pictured in the manual. that little tab should be on the build plate. Use support touching build plate only, 60% overhang angle. Brim if you need it.



    I recently added the "APP_Base_Slide_Long". The front part that pushes the base of the brass is longer, and it is geared towards smaller dia. brass like .223.
    I’m about to print this part but feel a bit stupid, what does 60% overhang angle mean? How does it look like in the slicer?

  4. #6384
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    There is a setting in your browser......tells the printer to print supports under anything that is overhanging more than a ___ Degree angle. I'm assuming the percent sign should have been the degree symbol???? and he's asking for the angle to be 60?

    It not, I don't know what Tyler's asking for......hang around and see if he's around to respond. If that isn't it, I don't have a clue.

  5. #6385
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corbindallas View Post
    I’m about to print this part but feel a bit stupid, what does 60% overhang angle mean? How does it look like in the slicer?
    Here it is loaded in to Cura.




    Last edited by TylerR; 03-05-2023 at 02:45 AM.

  6. #6386
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    Thanks,
    I’m using Prusa slicer, but looking at the picture I believe I can use a support enforcer just on the lower part of the base slide.
    Using Prusa, enabling supports on build plate only, will create supports on other parts of the base slide also. I’m not an advanced user so maybe there are better ways to do it in prusa as well. I’ll try and see what happens.

    I’ve started to order parts to the build, and I noticed that the link in the manual to the prox sensor seems to be dead. But I’ve understood that you need an inductive NC 18mm diameter with at least 8mm distance capability.
    Will any of these work?

    https://www.amazon.se/Heschen-närhet...ps%2C86&sr=8-3

    Or this one?
    https://www.amazon.se/närhetssensor-...language=en_GB

  7. #6387
    Boolit Bub
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    The link in the manual is up again.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    What you are looking for is the PRD18-14DN2 model. The others you referenced have a shorter sensing distance. May or may not work. More info here:

    https://hvhindustrial.com/pdfs/7_PRD_20161025_W.pdf

    Also note there is DN2 and DP2. They are not the same. The N connects the trigger wire to ground where the P connects the trigger wire to positive voltage.

  8. #6388
    Boolit Mold
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    I have been playing with feeding rifle bullets lately to run in a Lee ACP for pointing purposes for Fclass shooting, one thing that is happening is the bullets are hammering the tips they drop on the next. For precision shooting this is not good. I am trying to figure out a way to slow the drop without introducing feeding issues. Anybody have good idea's for this?

  9. #6389
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rsp111 View Post
    I have been playing with feeding rifle bullets lately to run in a Lee ACP for pointing purposes for Fclass shooting, one thing that is happening is the bullets are hammering the tips they drop on the next. For precision shooting this is not good. I am trying to figure out a way to slow the drop without introducing feeding issues. Anybody have good idea's for this?
    Use the alt drop tube and mount the sensor just under the collator so the spring stays filled with bullets. Gently pre-fill the spring by hand prior to running the collator.

  10. #6390
    Boolit Mold
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    Ok, I have had a few of those half twist drop tube connector pieces printed,but the tolerances seem too tight and I have broke a few while twisting to the locked possition. Any advice on that?

  11. #6391
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rsp111 View Post
    Ok, I have had a few of those half twist drop tube connector pieces printed,but the tolerances seem too tight and I have broke a few while twisting to the locked possition. Any advice on that?
    printer calibration. they are designed to have the correct tolerance to give a snug fit. if they don't fit then the printer is off on dimensions in some fashion. Also be sure to be printing with .12 layers or lower.

  12. #6392
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    Tyler.....been playing around with DesignSpark again......if successful it could mean your bullet feeders could feed and seat in the same station....

    Just preliminary.....I'll keep you all posted.....



    Rose part gets pushed by a sub shell plate up into a feeder...bullet drops down the ramp into the windowed seater die. Simple.

    For a windowed seating die, for example like this one.....


  13. #6393
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GWS View Post
    Tyler.....been playing around with DesignSpark again......if successful it could mean your bullet feeders could feed and seat in the same station....

    Just preliminary.....I'll keep you all posted.....

    Rose part gets pushed by a sub shell plate up into a feeder...bullet drops down the ramp into the windowed seater die. Simple.

    For a windowed seating die, for example like this one.....
    That looks very cool. I am not sure I fully understand how it works but I am sure you will explain it. Can't wait to see what you come up with.

  14. #6394
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TylerR View Post
    That looks very cool. I am not sure I fully understand how it works but I am sure you will explain it. Can't wait to see what you come up with.
    It isn't a final design, but you have to start somewhere. I printed it out today, and my threads are too tight. Don't know where the fit is off. But the only thing you have in the downloads is the plastic die nut.....I tried to copy it, but without the design parameters, it will be trial and error......so far no joy.

    The plan is to make a universal connector between feed dies and seaters, NOT different connector for every caliber.......may be dreaming, but I'm going to give it a serious try, if I can get those female threads right.

    Already, having printed the first try, I see where the half moon insert has to be redesigned or added to, because some of your feeders are pushed by the cases inside the die, not from below the die like the 9mm one. (I should have been more observant!)

  15. #6395
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GWS View Post
    It isn't a final design, but you have to start somewhere. I printed it out today, and my threads are too tight. Don't know where the fit is off. But the only thing you have in the downloads is the plastic die nut.....I tried to copy it, but without the design parameters, it will be trial and error......so far no joy.

    The plan is to make a universal connector between feed dies and seaters, NOT different connector for every caliber.......may be dreaming, but I'm going to give it a serious try, if I can get those female threads right.

    Already, having printed the first try, I see where the half moon insert has to be redesigned or added to, because some of your feeders are pushed by the cases inside the die, not from below the die like the 9mm one. (I should have been more observant!)
    Just sent you an email that will hopefully help.

  16. #6396
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    Talk about timely.....I had just finished another thread design and your tool is looser still....so I did a saveas #3 and tooled once more with yours........will let you know how it did when I get another print done. Thankyou! There are no really clear videos on doing 3D printed threads to fit existing.....lots of methods, and lots of wondering who's right. You want loose but not too loose....a slow trial and error exercise.

    Your bullet feeder dies nailed the male thread.....so I'm expecting great things from the female tool.

    I think I figured out the pusher insert. We will see today.

  17. #6397
    Boolit Mold
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    Hi, I have just started printing and am ordering all the parts. The link for the switch seems to be broken. Is there an alternate part for this?

  18. #6398
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mbeavers1 View Post
    Hi, I have just started printing and am ordering all the parts. The link for the switch seems to be broken. Is there an alternate part for this?
    I use these:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

  19. #6399
    Boolit Mold
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    I also found the spring kit is unavailable. If anyone is looking this one appears to have all the same springs.

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BG5W6M4Z...W4EADZJGAMCJ7N

  20. #6400
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    For anyone near Menards that is looking for the spring set, they have one that appears to be the same as the one on Amazon...

    Sontax Spring Assortment Kit - 200 Piece at Menards https://www.menards.com/main/p-1444421806881.htm

    Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check