Making that Bullet Collator

[GWS]

Just want to share my experience wasting a lot of time tying to find another source for springs for TylerR's awesome bullet feeder dies. After a long Google search 3 times I finally found springs at McMaster-Carr that may work nearly as good as the ones I bought in the assortment pack for $11. You can order them in packs of 12 for about $12.....but then you have to pay shipping and tax for another $10.....so $22 for a measly dozen springs. https://www.mcmaster.com/9654K957/ Forget that.

The Chinese spring Assortment, which I bought for $11 has 10 springs of the right size which is shown in my pictures of my finished dies. Amazon no shipping. But you have a large # of other springs to store and maybe never use of course. I did find that assortment at another amazon store for a little cheaper so I ordered that one too for extras. So I'm springed for life I think.

Plus I think the round ends on the Chinese ones, being really just a flipped coil on each end allows for a neater closer, more professional look. I've got three built using 6 springs.....so I can now build 7 more as needed for other calibers of pistol and rifle. For me, should be enough.

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-T...lspark_BIA_0_t. Of course I pay for Amazon prime which I use all year. So really how much am I saving? Who knows?

The springs I use is the extension springs in the top left corner of the assortment. Crazy to have to buy all those springs....but it's the cheapest way I can find...and they fit like a glove.

[nhyrum]

Just want to share my experience wasting a lot of time tying to find another source for springs for TylerR's awesome bullet feeder dies. After a long Google search 3 times I finally found springs at McMaster-Carr that may work nearly as good as the ones I bought in the assortment pack for $11. You can order them in packs of 12 for about $12.....but then you have to pay shipping and tax for another $10.....so $22 for a measly dozen springs. https://www.mcmaster.com/9654K957/ Forget that.

The Chinese spring Assortment, which I bought for $11 has 10 springs of the right size which is shown in my pictures of my finished dies. Amazon no tax. But you have a large # of other springs to store and maybe never use of course. I did find that assortment at another amazon store for a little cheaper so I ordered that one too for extras. So I'm springed for life I think.

Plus I think the round ends on the Chinese ones, being really just a flipped coil on each end allows for a neater closer, more professional look. I've got three built using 6 springs.....so I can now build 7 more as needed for other calibers of pistol and rifle. For me, should be enough.

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-T...lspark_BIA_0_t. Of course I pay for Amazon prime which I use all year. So really how much am I saving? Who knows?

The springs I use is the extension springs in the top left corner of the assortment. Crazy to have to buy all those springs....but it's the cheapest way I can find...and they fit like a glove.

Do you have a preference for the feed springs? The ones that go from the collator to the feed die?

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[TylerR]

Do you have a preference for the feed springs? The ones that go from the collator to the feed die?

How much of a rush are you in? These are the best quality and cheapest springs.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3281...28844c4dYdm39m

[nhyrum]

not a huge hurry, direct from china is fine. what diameters would be best for 9mm and 300BO? could i get one diameter for the both? would 11mm be too small for 9?

[TylerR]

not a huge hurry, direct from china is fine. what diameters would be best for 9mm and 300BO? could i get one diameter for the both? would 11mm be too small for 9?

I would go with the 12. that is 10mm ID.

Figured I would add a little here. If you want to cover any and all calibers, bullets or brass, go with the 15mm, 12mm, and 10mm. you will have all you could ever need.

[r4ndy]

I question if it will work, and I have no way to test it, but it is possible one of the APP offset adapters could solve the problem.

Try the "Drop_Tube_APP_Offset_Adapter" on the Feed Die and then the "APP_Offset_Connector_13", then the drop tube you already printed. See if that could work with clearance. More parts but there may be a solution within my existing design. Please let us know if it works.

Confirming your suggestion works with both the printed die and the MBF one. You can angle over the fourth or third hole. My press runs smoother with the powder bar coming out toward the fourth hole which is perfect for 223. Wish I tried all this before buying the MBF die and DAA small powder bar. At least I don’t have to buy the large bar and more dies for 45 and 223. Thanks again for this awesome project.

[TylerR]

Confirming your suggestion works with both the printed die and the MBF one. You can angle over the fourth or third hole. My press runs smoother with the powder bar coming out toward the fourth hole which is perfect for 223. Wish I tried all this before buying the MBF die and DAA small powder bar. At least I don’t have to buy the large bar and more dies for 45 and 223. Thanks again for this awesome project.

That is very cool feedback thank you, and I am glad it works!

Clearly they should bring me on as a consultant. haha

[wbbh]

That is very cool feedback thank you, and I am glad it works!

Clearly they should bring me on as a consultant. haha

Absolutely.

[nhyrum]

has anyone used the 9mm feed die with a cartridge like 357 sig? does the bottleneck get in the way, or is it no issue?

im also having an issue with the parts builder. Ive done a bit of troubleshooting and it seems to lock up around 90% on the item before the 300 BO die set.

[TylerR]

has anyone used the 9mm feed die with a cartridge like 357 sig? does the bottleneck get in the way, or is it no issue?

im also having an issue with the parts builder. Ive done a bit of troubleshooting and it seems to lock up around 90% on the item before the 300 BO die set.

bottle neck will not be able to go up in to the die properly.

The parts builder is a bit out of date with some of the recent changes I have made. It is probably the 300 BO die that is messing it up.

[nhyrum]

bottle neck will not be able to go up in to the die properly.

The parts builder is a bit out of date with some of the recent changes I have made. It is probably the 300 BO die that is messing it up.

Would a custom set have to be designed? Or could a 40 body and 9mm guts be used? I don't shoot 357 SIG, but 9x25 Dillon, which is the same concept but using a 10mm parent case instead of 40 s&w.

I figured it was the 300 bo. In the big list of parts there's only a 300 Bo body (which is really all that's needed that's different, right?) So I could see the program hanging up looking for the rest of the files, using the same lookup table setup.

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[TylerR]

Would a custom set have to be designed? Or could a 40 body and 9mm guts be used? I don't shoot 357 SIG, but 9x25 Dillon, which is the same concept but using a 10mm parent case instead of 40 s&w.

I figured it was the 300 bo. In the big list of parts there's only a 300 Bo body (which is really all that's needed that's different, right?) So I could see the program hanging up looking for the rest of the files, using the same lookup table setup.

It would require an insert to be designed that would be a cross between 9mm and .40. Would use the .40 body. I can probably throw one together for you.

Yes, it became an issue for naming because there is 300 winmag and 300 blackout. If you just manually grab the .308 insert and the .300 BO body you will be good.

[nhyrum]

It would require an insert to be designed that would be a cross between 9mm and .40. Would use the .40 body. I can probably throw one together for you.

Yes, it became an issue for naming because there is 300 winmag and 300 blackout. If you just manually grab the .308 insert and the .300 BO body you will be good.

It would be great if you could do that! Thank you.

I'm expecting my new filament to be here sometime today, so if it doesn't get here too late, I'll start printing everything I need tonight!

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[TylerR]

It would be great if you could do that! Thank you.

I'm expecting my new filament to be here sometime today, so if it doesn't get here too late, I'll start printing everything I need tonight!

After looking at it closer, I realize I spoke too soon. The 9mm die should work just fine with 357 sig.

[GWS]

I found some red satin I can live with.....came in....printed the 9mm feed die with it. Turned out pretty good.....might have liked a darker red, but it pretty......ah Christmassy at least.

So I think I'm done with pistol! Yup they all work 100% Very impressed TylerR.




What brand is the red? Overture Satin Red. I'm printing perfect prints now with my Creality for these Feeder Dies with no stringing inside the tubes. Settings on the slicer are as follows:

Bed 65C Nozzle 215C
Retraction Speed 80
Retraction Travel 1.5
Retraction Amount 6
Minimum Retraction .02
Retraction Restart Speed 50
No Z hop
Walls 2
Layer height .12mm
top and bottom solid layers 2 (I may try 3 top layers)

I ran the next smaller drill bit in the tubes....just ran them up and down 3 or 4 times and the inserts slide nice. I did print the 9mm using the "set" .stl to make my Gcode. I still think running them one at a time is even better.....but it takes longer.....this print took 6 hours....Am going to start printing the medium down tube and the #10 spring adapter for this 9mm feeder die next.....they take an hour 40 and an hour 10 in that order......will print them separate to get the smoother cylinders....I mean I don't have to stand there and watch! (I used to when the printer was new....for a while )

I'm thinking I'm going to ask around looking for some brass to test the 357 sig on my .38 and my 9mm feeder dies. May not find any....not too popular around here.

[mktacop]

Question for the group…

I have a Dillon 750, but no Dillon case feeder. I’ve printed the main body, but am unsure how it will connect to the clear case feed tube. I get that I need to print the brass slide plate and the brass drop hole adaptor.

Do those mate up to the clear tube, or what other part(s) should I print to have the optical switch in place?


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[GWS]

Question for the group…

I have a Dillon 750, but no Dillon case feeder. I’ve printed the main body, but am unsure how it will connect to the clear case feed tube. I get that I need to print the brass slide plate and the brass drop hole adaptor.

Do those mate up to the clear tube, or what other part(s) should I print to have the optical switch in place?


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The optical stuff is mounted on top of your clear tube I think. Then more tube or a spring to the collator. It makes for a really high collator. You do have to create a mounting method to directly line up your collator as I did, or use flexible springs as others have done. My direct mating allows a lower collator, unless I missed another way.....

What I did is use a proximity sensor instead....right next to the Collator just under the brass drop hole adapter. Picture of mine over my Pro Chucker is below:

[mktacop]

The optical stuff is mounted on top of your clear tube I think. Then more tube or a spring to the collator. It makes for a really high collator. You do have to create a mounting method to direc[img]tly line up your collator as I did, or use flexible springs as others have done.

What I did is use a proximity sensor instead....right next to the Collator just under the brass drop hole adapter. Picture of mine over my Pro Chucker is below:

Thanks. The Dillon already has a mounting pole that came with it. I just don’t think there is space between where the case feeder will sit on that pole and where the feed tube drops down to the clear tube that came on the Dillon.


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[GWS]

Pictures? Or maybe sketch a little birds eye view on where it mounts? So the Dillon came with the black tube? If so then is it the same as the one on the 650?......and if so TylerR may have a mount in mind?........since he created Mongo to handle cases.

I'm thinking unless your have a really high ceiling, you may have to cut a lot of the clear tube off....or order aftermarket tubing to replace the original....

[mktacop]

Here it is, with and without the main body attached.




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