Making that Bullet Collator

[GWS]

I think TylerR is just checking me

So for 38 and 357 brass I should go for this one ? https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob...late_Large.stl

The reason for my test was that I have a thing about having more to juggle than I have to. I printed the large one first, because I load a lot of .45ACP. So then before I went to the trouble to print the small one, I wanted to see if one size would be fine for all pistol. That's why the test.....and I tested 9mm too! and with 9mm I had one or two go in the tube upside down. Small would be better for that, surely.....

My curiousity got me to even try rifle .223 on that same large pistol. It works too.....but I think the laydown small rifle version makes more sense for that. But see for yourself in the video below....it does work....and honestly if my collator is set up with the large pistol already and I wanted to feed a few .223....being the lazy soul I am, I wouldn't go to the trouble to change it out, just for a few. (this video is using the large pistol holes on Ammo Mike's tiny bullet collator, a collator even smaller than TylerR's normal, so the holes look even bigger!)



had to use the plate generator for that one....since I had to specify Ammo Mike's smaller plate diameter and the hole diameter, too.

I'm not much of a multi-tasker at my age, so sorry I couldn't stroke the press and keep the camera still at the same time.

UPDATE:
I should explain about Ammo Mike's little collator......back in the earliest days of this thread (when TylerR first started posting) we didn't have Tyler's "normal" size, we only had Mike's little base and plates.....but at least we had the plate generator....we had no clutch either, but TylerR eventually added that capability to the generator.....

TylerR gave away his original A.M. collator base, but I kept mine and still use it over my Lee APP. And I printed clutches even for those tiny plates.

My 3 progressives use Tyler R normals for bullets, except that I'm still using a modified bullet flipping Hornady Pistol bullet collator over my old RCBS Pro 2000, with a "normal" TylerR case collator above a self-made custom case feeder.

My newer ProChucker 7 and Lee Six Pack use "normal" bullet feeders and a "300" case feeder arranged to be shared (for now).

[GWS]

I have the same issue. trying to support lots of calibers I do not personally have. I did post your modified 7.62 insert.

TylerR and friends: I finished the 6.5 insert and had to fix the 7.62 insert. So you may want to erase the last one you just uploaded and replace it. Sorry but perfection eludes me by a lot. I have not tested these either, but I'm pretty sure I got it right this time. As for the 6.5 I can only assume the 6.5 cutout depth is correct on the existing one for height (I repeated that cutout depth, but shaped it to prevent side movement. Let me know if I need to tweak them further.

[Kausit]

Sorry but Generator will not run on my computer so I had to print everything out by the manual and a lot of guessing, For 223/556 I printed the #2 rifle bullet collator plate. What side plate works best with avg bullets? Thanks

[GWS]

Sorry but Generator will not run on my computer so I had to print everything out by the manual and a lot of guessing, For 223/556 I printed the #2 rifle bullet collator plate. What side plate works best with avg bullets? Thanks

TylerR's been busy changing things again, I see! The #2 plate looks like a saw blade! That's a new one on me. I feel like I just woke up from a 2 year nap! I'll have to print one too....curious to say the least....that one snuck up on me.

He will have to tell you what you need for that, but it used to be....#2 plate used a #2 slide, unless that was a dream too....

[Kausit]

I will look at the #2 slide and take some measurements and I maybe able tell if that one will work.
The #2 with saw tooth really does pick up the 223 well and works great from what I have tested.
Thanks GWS.

[TylerR]

TylerR's been busy changing things again, I see! The #2 plate looks like a saw blade! That's a new one on me. I feel like I just woke up from a 2 year nap! I'll have to print one too....curious to say the least....that one sneaked up on me.

He will have to tell you what you need for that, but it used to be....#2 plate used a #2 slide, unless that was a dream too....

Those new rifle plates represent around 50 hours of R&D from me. That #2 was designed to handle .223 bullets across all bullet length/weights. Most of the testing was done with 55gr.

You can pair it up with any of the regular slide plates, or the Bullet_Nose_Up_Slide_Plate_#2_Long, which will handle longer bullets better.

Here is a video of that combo. Notice how many of the bullet slots get filled. Almost every one.
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/2wfqy...1us7d08rn&dl=0

[GWS]

50 hours and who knows how much PLA..... I like the result! Efficiency is good. Will be printing some, and throwing away the old......again!

[Kausit]

Thanks so much Tyler. My first test I could tell it worked great.

[Kausit]

Not sure that this exact unit has been shown here. This timer will take the place of the SSR and will run the motor for a preset time so that your not starting and stopping the motor every cycle of the press. I set it to feed about 4 or 5 bullets at a time. You have to use a normally closed proximity switch.

I put the control box, front panel and buttons on thingiverse.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6491582

Timer normal mode:
buttons left to right- 1. STOP 2. SET 3.UP 4.DOWN
button 1 in normal mode will stop the unit, press once for OFF and again for ON. NOTE if unit will not run press the
button because the unit maybe in the off mode. nothing tells you its in the off state.
button 2 short press will display current settings. button 3 & 4 do nothing in normal mode.
Timer how to Program:
press button 2 for two seconds
press button 3 till display reads P-4
press button 2 display will show OP and blink 3 times, then will display digits 000
press button 3 to adjust seconds. exp: 035
press button 1 will cycle the decimal 0.3.5./03.5/035. 03.5 seconds is what I set.
press button 2 for 2 seconds to save settings. DONE.

[TylerR]

Not sure that this exact unit has been shown here. This timer will take the place of the SSR and will run the motor for a preset time so that your not starting and stopping the motor every cycle of the press. I set it to feed about 4 or 5 bullets at a time. You have to use a normally closed proximity switch.

So it feeds 5 and waits a time, then feeds 5 more? Do you still use the proximity sensor, or is it just feeding either way?

[Kausit]

Tyler, that not how it operates, let me try to explane it better.
When bullets get lower then prox it will feed till prox stays on for the preset amount of time.
How many it actually feed depends on the amount of time vs speed of the motor. So I have mine set to feed about 4-5 bullets at a time vs without it. A lot less starting and stopping.

Example 1. if the system is empty it will feed till prox is made and continues feeding for the preset amount of time (time delay).
Example2.
A. Cycle press and bullet falls below prox.
B. Motor runs
C. Bullets fill up and make prox.
D. Timer start (preset time 3.5 sec)
E. After 3.5 sec motor stops and waits till bullets fall below prox.
F. If While the timer is counting up the bullets fall below the prox, time will clear and start counting again when the bullets make the prox.

With all this said its just a stop delay timer. Simple wiring setup and easy to have control.
Let me know if this helps. If not I may figure out how to post video.
Thanks for all you have done Tyler.

[M500]

Should function the same as the delay relay I posted last April.

Here

Yours is easier to wire and has a nicer box for the buttons and display. The delay relays work well at first, but are frustrating when the hopper gets low and bullets bounce around without feeding. At that point they end up cycling more than a standard relay. Not sure which is better. Depends how well your collator plate feeds.

[Kausit]

Very similar setup. one I posted uses electronic switching and not a relay.
M500 if the bullets are low it will run till prox is made and for another 3.5 seconds (preset time). so you are right that if there are no bullets it will run for 3.5 and may not feed anymore. so, at worst case with my setup it would run one for one bullet. sounds like the one you're talking about is a little different.

filling from empty.
https://youtube.com/shorts/sqffrusAKfo?feature=share
feed after cycling press.
https://youtube.com/shorts/7l5nch4Zux8?feature=share

[M500]

I can see the difference now from your videos. The one I posted doesn't have that configuration in its firmware. As you obviously know, getting the right firmware is the key to making it work right. Reading the Chinese to English translation of the instructions definitely doesn't clarify things much.

[TylerR]

Very similar setup. one I posted uses electronic switching and not a relay.
M500 if the bullets are low it will run till prox is made and for another 3.5 seconds (preset time). so you are right that if there are no bullets it will run for 3.5 and may not feed anymore. so, at worst case with my setup it would run one for one bullet. sounds like the one you're talking about is a little different.

filling from empty.
https://youtube.com/shorts/sqffrusAKfo?feature=share
feed after cycling press.
https://youtube.com/shorts/7l5nch4Zux8?feature=share

I like the concept. Basically if it drops below the sensor feed 5 instead of 1. And for what you describe you could feed 10. I always liked the idea of two sensors but it adds a fair amount of complexity to the wiring/setup and you need to run two sensors.

[Kausit]

Tyler, you are correct. I have 3 filled. Box, buttons and faceplate. If you find it of value for others you can post them with your files. I could also post how to program it. Only takes a few seconds to do it.

[GWS]

Recognizing that I'm old and maybe denser than most, explain to me why it matters to be starting and stopping the motor every cycle of the press? So far, I'm not phased by that.....since it works so well in spite of it. Maybe it would matter if the motor wears out faster.....but at my age, I'll most likely be history before these motors quit, unless the Chinese have a built-in on/off cycle counter that craters the motor at 200 cycles or something, so they can sell you another. What do these things cost?

[flybyjohn]

Looks like about 6.18 on Amazon for the one shown.


I think the positive thing about it is that it makes noise less often. With my app sizer I pretty much keep up with the drops so it constantly runs anyway. I think it would be a positive addition to a loading setup though.

[Kausit]

Well for me it a little annoying and I guess i am anal about it starting and stopping so often. Its more wear and tear but is it enough to really matter for our situation? maybe not, so why do it? well, this was cheaper than just buying the SSR and give me more control. Would you want to change yours? I say not but if build one why not go this route. Most of us building this stuff like something technical anyways. Lol.
To each there own. I was just trying to give something back to the community. If it helps other fine. If it does not well... I like it.
I got mine on TEMU, 1pc DC 12V 24V Dual MOS LED Digital Time Delay Relay Trigger Cycle Timer Delay Switch Circuit Board Timing Control Module DIY $2.24
There not in stock on temu today so you would have keep checking back. took about 14 days to arrive.
also HW-0516 appears to be the same item.

[GWS]

Okay....annoyance works! I can relate to that.... Right now the most annoying thing in my life is fighting traffic every morning going to work. Either there are 20,000 more annoying drivers in my city than last year, or I'm losing the battle handling old age.......and then there's handling change.....that gets worse every year too......somebody please find a cure for aging.......okay I'll settle for a cure for neuropathy.

May have to buy one just to see what I'm missing......at least curiosity isn't getting weaker.

Flybyjohn: $6.18 won't break anyone either.....what remains to be seen is if it really is less annoying.....if it is, then the change is worth it.

My next and final collator base will be another normal sized one......will look into this seriously when I'm printing it....and need another E. box.

Did I miss seeing a link?