Don't forget the adjustment screw on the back of the slider plates that move the plate out a tad. Made a huge difference for me when I was having problems with my semi wadcutters. just d a bit at a time when you make changes either in or out. My round nose bullets were doing great a bit further out... the semi wadcutters i needed to move the plate in.
And yes. give the feeder all the angle you can get!
azlester and ranger: I admit I do like to test at speed, see older video below....if it works without binding then, then at a normal speed (I mean you can't load that fast), it should work even more reliably.....that's when I added the lower voltage power. And cheaper Speed Controls get a lower more reasonable & useful range.
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...=1#post5369971
Last edited by GWS; 06-07-2022 at 12:24 PM.
Well I got both my Collators up and running on the LoadMaster finally. Took me a while to figure out what works and what doesn't as far as parts and adjustments. I found that having the sensors down on the press level worked better for me because the springs I got are a tad flimsy and the weight of a full spring at the angles I had would sag a bunch.
a video I did of them... https://youtu.be/OVgAO12H08U
I will say that Tyler's bullet dies are amazing!!!!!!!
I want to thank everyone for all the help you gave me in this journey! I couldn't have done it without your assistance.
Looks very good. No shout out to GWS in the video?Originally Posted by azlester
The shout out to GWS and you is coming in the next video on it. I have received several requests to do a video on how I did it and where I got the files from. I hope it ok to refer them to Github and to this thread.
Very nice. Definitely fine by me. I love seeing people have success with this project.
This is TylerR's project, I just help to have something to do.....best to keep busy at my age. No "shout out" needed or wanted. I prefer low key. I like to be helpful where and when I can, but the brains and parts proven to work here is TylerR's. I'm happy with them, both.
Actually, I had to ask him for help just this A.M. and discovered an APP part I didn't know existed, that would have made my last video a little simpler if I'd understood it earlier. Printing it as I post..... That would be "APP_Spring_APP_Insert_Medium.stl" that part comes in small medium and large.
I had thought that part was the very similar part made for the bullet feed dies also in 3 sizes. Not observant enough to catch that....so had tried to figure out how the parts for the dies could possibly work for the APP........they couldn't.....dumbbb.
The APP part fits over the top of all the APP inserts, where the one for the dies could not.
Here's the APP part:
See the bottom has a BIG cutout to go over the inserts!
Below is the similar part used with bullet feed dies that looks nearly the same, but won't work here at all.
Maybe this post will help other dummies....
Last edited by GWS; 06-11-2022 at 12:24 AM.
Okay, got "APP_Spring_APP_Insert_Medium.stl" printed.....how'd it work? Well it's a little tight.....sanding down the insert a just a little.....but if you don't want loosey parts, expect a certain amount of that. I printed at .12 layer height, but the older insert most likely was printed at .2, which would affect that pretty sure, but no big deal.
Now being that TylerR made 3 generic sizes I picked medium for .357, and that would be great for that size brass, except for .357 has these pesky rims that stick out. But I'd rather use that size than large....closer. But, I had to drill the center with a 7/16" drill to allow the case rims to drop cleanly through the part.
This is the part as it is cross sectioned: (as you can see it's not a very long ream-out, less than an 1/8" long in the center. You won't have to do that for 9mm with its flush rim, but also there's another plus for reaming to 7/16".....makes the medium size to work for .40S&W cases too and won't hurt 9mm....so reamed it would work fine for all three.)
Now I need to print a bottom twist end for my clear tube to drop and twist into this part.....since I do like my clear tube. But I did this exercise to show people who need or want to use spring tubes.
Last edited by GWS; 06-11-2022 at 12:27 AM.
Cool retrofit to the Ammomike collator GWS! I was contemplating this with my original AM feeder to use for 223 case prep on the APP. Do you think the bowl is big enough to do 223 cases?
I have an AM collator with the Greartisan motor and was considering either trying something like this for 223 cases or asking Tyler if he would do a collator with the hole pattern for the greartisan to see if it had enough power to run with 223 cases as I have a couple of these motors laying around and hate to waste them.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Last edited by r4ndy; 06-14-2022 at 07:38 AM.
You got me thinking.....dangerous.
Observations: 1. Same setup worked fine with the right insert and shuttle.
2. Feed .223 perfect if a little slower than laying them down....but plenty fast enough.
3. First one dropped in the shuttle did the Lee APP shooting case trick. (those were LC cases with some case heads pretty roughly embossed....and some can hang and others can tilt and not feed into the deprimer perfectly.)
4. The famous TylerR clutch was needed at tube fill up because it needs a smaller downtube or a spacer, but no biggie, I just turned the switch off.
I was surprised how well it worked.
Picture below shows the two parts changed from .357. the .223 insert, and the tall shuttle.
r4ndy: I don't know if that motor will work, but if it works on the AmmoMike collator, just use that. Works fine IME.
I filled it back up and ran it two more times......no more case fly off. Still had one or two not go into the die perfect, but I betcha commercial brass with smooth case embossing won't do that. LC is pretty rough, and can tilt the worst of those cases and cause that.
Last edited by GWS; 06-12-2022 at 01:30 PM.
Very interesting GWS - can you please share the parts you created to fit the AM for brass collating?
@ TylerR and @GWS, From previous posts I noticed the problem I am currently having was already faced by you, I am just not sure how it was resolved. I built 3 different collators (standard, 300, Mongo) and all went very well in the build including the electrical part. Great job on getting this project accomplished. The problem I am having is on the standard size collator that I am using for bullet (nose up). The bullet that is giving me trouble is "Sierra Match King Bullets 308 168 Grain Hollow Point Boat Tail". I use the generator to select all parts. It gave me the "Rifle_Bullet_Collator_Plate_Large_#4" which did not work (the bullet rarely, if ever, got to the collator bullet space - it stayed side ways on the top of the collator no matter the collator incline angle). I then used the "Rifle_Bullet_Collator_Plate_Long_#11" which worked well. The current problem is the slide plate - I am using the "Bullet_Nose_Up_Slide_Plate_#11" but if the bullet is nose down then the bullet falls in the plate no matter the collator incline angle to I point that it is so incline that other problems start occurring.
What other slide plate should I use or is there another trick to solve this problem. Thank you for your help.
The #11 plates are definitely what you want for that bullet. I could do a lot of guessing, but if you could post a video of the problem I could most likely troubleshoot it very quickly.
Thanks @TylerR, I was able to resolve it. I had to play with three variables - rotation speed, incline collator angle, and how much to pull the slide plate out (so the bullet would not fall when nose is up due to the boat tail or when tip down it would be close to the edge). After many trials and errors I found the sweet spot for the three variables and it works fine now. Thanks again for the quick response.
Attachment 301257
Attachment 301258
Besides these files, print TylerR's Brass_Feed_Base_Down_Adapter.stl, only pivot it 30 degrees to set the base flat on the bed. This is the outlet that screws to the underside of the slide plate. And of course the clutch parts that you prefer.
Last edited by GWS; 06-15-2022 at 07:27 AM.
Thank you GWS!
Anyone want a free photo sensor setup for the collator? Just wire up the motor and add a power supply and you're done.
Email and PM sent
Last edited by azlester; 06-18-2022 at 12:14 AM.
Not sure if anyone has reported it already, but the "modified" link on page 16 under Step 8 (Part D) is broken in the manual.
Don't know, that's a TylerR question....he must be tired of this thread or still doing championship baseball with his kids!
My current project is a little different..... anybody guess what? The green tool base is the hint.... Just having some fun..... Ordered a new quick change bench plate for it....
Last edited by GWS; 07-04-2022 at 11:37 PM.
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| BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
| BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
| BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
| C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
| HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
| PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
| LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
| GC | Gas Check |
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