Making that Bullet Collator

[TylerR]

No it's still flat on flat and an even bigger surface area means slower wear since a diagonal is wider than the horizontal. Email me something with dimensions and I'll show you what I mean. // rather than = the top is still the same. Just the overhang of the plate and the lower horizontal of the bottom clutch piece would be angled. I'll make an un-dimensioned model to show you.

See, no supports necessary, and more surface. That's what you get when you ask for my input, a PIA divergent.
Car disc brakes are even worse....they are vertical.....

Yes, this is a great idea, and would work. Now do me a favor and go code it in openSCAD.

Seriously though I will make this change, but a two second change in DSM will take me at least an hour or so to match the bevel angle in openScad and probably a bunch of prints. But I like the way you think.

This:
translate([0,0,-collator_plate_h/2-1]) cylinder(d=39,h=10, center=true);

would have to be something more like this:
translate([0,0,-collator_plate_h/2+5]) cylinder(d1=40, d2=20,h=15, center=true);

But I would have to play with it like I said because everything I do with OpenScad is like poking with a sharp stick.

[TylerR]

TylerR...Clutch plate working brilliantly!!! Already had a jam with the 9mm bullets at the drop tube/spring connection. Clutch spun and worked as advertised.

Great to hear!

[TylerR]

OK so GWS twisted my arm and I am working to remove the need for supports on the collator plate

[GWS]

Yes, this is a great idea, and would work. Now do me a favor and go code it in openSCAD.

Seriously though I will make this change, but a two second change in DSM will take me at least an hour or so to match the bevel angle in openScad and probably a bunch of prints. But I like the way you think.

This:
translate([0,0,-collator_plate_h/2-1]) cylinder(d=39,h=10, center=true);

would have to be something more like this:
translate([0,0,-collator_plate_h/2+5]) cylinder(d1=40, d2=20,h=15, center=true);

But I would have to play with it like I said because everything I do with OpenScad is like poking with a sharp stick.

I know EXACTLY what you mean with OpenScad.....I love the ability to change on the fly though.....Oh Ed? Ed? Where's Ed when you need him! At least a 45 is easier than a 35.....since X is equal to Y. IOW's since d1 is 20 more than d2, then radius must be 10 more.....so h must be 10.....right? Is that diameter difference really 20mm?

In a perfect world Autocad would translate directly to OpenScad code.....So much easier to design in what I've used for 40 years, but impossible to make it editable like Mike's famous plate maker in OpenScad. Wish I was younger, I'd learn it, but it's like learning Chinese....all the grammer might as well be from another planet for my brain.

[kc10kevin]

OK so GWS twisted my arm and I am working to remove the need for supports on the collator plate

LOL...OK...guess I should stop printing plates then until you come up a final design.

[TylerR]

I know EXACTLY what you mean with OpenScad.....I love the ability to change on the fly though.....Oh Ed? Ed? Where's Ed when you need him! At least a 45 is easier than a 35.....since X is equal to Y.

In a perfect world Autocad would translate directly to OpenScad code.....So much easier to design in what I've used for 40 years, but impossible to make it editable like Mike's famous plate maker in OpenScad. Wish I was younger, I'd learn it, but it's like learning Chinese....all the grammer might as well be from another planet for my brain.

Absolutely, and if you compare Mike's original version and what I have going on at this point they are very very different. A lot more stuff going on now.

[TylerR]

LOL...OK...guess I should stop printing plates then until you come up a final design.

Well the original design works great, they just require supports which I taught GWS to hate, so now he is using it against me. haha

I think he just wants me to have to re-gen all the plates again

[bigmike111]

Is that the 6mm tube btw?

Just checked and it looks like the 6mm version has a very small area that was less then .4mm (like .3961mm), which is a big no no.
Just fixed and will add it to new release.

Yes. That was the 6mm tube.

I printed two others, a switch and light barrier style, with no issues. Still looks like my printer wasn’t extruding enough on those top layers.

[bigmike111]

My last one was 60 hours and some small change.....variable layers from .20 to .12, 4 walls, 4 solid layers on the bottom 4 on top, with 18% infill. Maybe the variable wasn't worth it. How many solid bottom and top layers do you do?

Don't know if I will ever need to print another.....except if my brother talks me into making one for him. I'm just glad I finally found the reason for the warping.....guess my basement is not cold enough to use the heat you use. It quit warping when I lowered temps back to 215/70 first layer, and 210/60 the rest of the way..........and btw I'm really glad you haven't found a good reason to add a clutch to the bases.........

I don’t think that variable layers are worth it for the most part.

The only thing I thought about is doing a variable layer on the base and plates for the top layers so it’s smoothed out. It would be strictly aesthetic and wouldn’t effect the operation.

[kc10kevin]

Well the original design works great, they just require supports which I taught GWS to hate, so now he is using it against me. haha

I think he just wants me to have to re-gen all the plates again

Definitely works great and I'm with you both....I hate supports as well. Any chance I can, I get rig of them!! Good luck.

[o416]

Well the original design works great, they just require supports which I taught GWS to hate, so now he is using it against me. haha

I think he just wants me to have to re-gen all the plates again

So am I putting supports or no supports in the manual? lol

[GWS]

Definitely a good idea. Here is what I did to get around the slot and grinding down the screw. Drilled out the hex adapter to lower it down some. Puts the screw below the plate. Added benefit of lowering the hex nut down now to engage the "meatier" part of the hex clutch plate.

Attachment 276554
Attachment 276555

I almost did that, then I decided I liked the idea of mating two together to double the hex area. Now TylerR has changed all the rules.....again, and with the clutch I guess the little single hex surface may be enough after all. I still wish somebody made a hex that was all hex and not mostly round.....but I think they were made for RC car axles or something. TylerR's right about the slot cut in one face....don't need it ....only makes the hex center easiler to waller out.

Well the original design works great, they just require supports which I taught GWS to hate, so now he is using it against me. haha

I think he just wants me to have to re-gen all the plates again

TylerR, you know you will like it better without stupid supports to clean up! I have to reprint all mine too, because somebody wanted a clutch. and yes, I admit, I like it!

[TylerR]

So am I putting supports or no supports in the manual? lol

Haha. looks like no supports. Sorry man!

[TylerR]

I almost did that, then I decided I liked the idea of mating two together to double the hex area. Now TylerR has changed all the rules.....again, and with the clutch I guess the little single hex surface may be enough after all. I still wish somebody made a hex that was all hex and not mostly round.....but I think they were made for RC car axles or something.

TylerR, you know you will like it better without stupid supports to clean up! I have to reprint all mine too, because somebody wanted a clutch.

You got me there my friend.

It's not my fault everyone keeps pointing out all the issues and I have to go back to the drawing board!!!

[GWS]

You got me there my friend.

It's not my fault everyone keeps pointing out all the issues and I have to go back to the drawing board!!!

Perfection takes time and patience.....we are experiencing both.

I have to order another motor for my new base....it's already printed so is has to be the big one......that means looking for a better speed control or use that giant one I got most recently. The little ones I got first have both died.....not going that route again. Cheap bites you in the butt nearly every time. o416......sorry. What you bit into wasn't a steak, it was rawhide.

[o416]

Haha. looks like no supports. Sorry man!

Less work for me How tight should the screws/nuts on the slip clutch be?

[GWS]

Speaking of the nuts, are the recesses for the nuts hexed so they won't turn?

[TylerR]

Less work for me How tight should the screws/nuts on the slip clutch be?

Tight enough? I have no idea what the torque spec is

[o416]

Speaking of the nuts, are the recesses for the nuts hexed so they won't turn?

They don't look hexed, but that may be by design? Might be annoying trying to find nuts that fit exactly with cut out.

[TylerR]

Speaking of the nuts, are the recesses for the nuts hexed so they won't turn?

No because I didn't want to limit people to a certain nut. there is room to use a socket on them.