Making that Bullet Collator

[GWS]

That's true, if you want to limit yourself with a small bed. Some of the non-collator things I had planned to print wouldn't fit on such. Tyler's "Mongo" size collator doesn't even fit on mine....or his, until he bought a new second Creality Machine that prints 350mm X 350mm for $570. I would've bought that one had it been offered then.

Mine prints 300x300x400, TylerR's new Ender 5 Plus prints 350x350x450. But I'm happy enough with mine....big bed on a much smaller footprint. But if I shot anything bigger than .308 I'd probably want to print a "Mongo" case feeder and need an Ender 5 plus.

I admitted to being old, already.....you will get there soon enough.....unless you disrespect the wrong person at the wrong time.

[Jackbrush]

220x220 has been enough for everything I've printed so far. Before the collator I never even thought about expanding. Im probably not expanding at this point.

Whats the benefit of the mondo collator with > 308 brass? I thought it just held more brass. Is it a pain in the ass to keep the normal collator filled at that size? I thought I saw the mondo wasn't recommended because it eats up motors anyway.

[TylerR]

220x220 has been enough for everything I've printed so far. Before the collator I never even thought about expanding. Im probably not expanding at this point.

Whats the benefit of the mondo collator with > 308 brass? I thought it just held more brass. Is it a pain in the ass to keep the normal collator filled at that size? I thought I saw the mondo wasn't recommended because it eats up motors anyway.

Where did you hear the MONGO eats up motors? I use the ETZGMP38 motor and have absolutely no issues at all.

I will leave this here to clear up the naming confusion.

[wbbh]

GWS is correct, why get a golden egg when you can get the goose that lays golden eggs?

I'm 71 going on 72 and figured this out. Between the help here, YouTube videos and a willingness to experiment I'm getting good results, not perfect, but good enough.

3D printing can become addictive, so far I've printed five collator bodies, built all three control designs, microswitch, proximity and light sensor then another one using the electronic relay controlled by the microswitch. I ended up buying a Lee APP to use a dedicated brass collator. As I type this message I am printing a ball bearing handle design for the APP that I found on thingiverse.com.

To use up odd ends of filament, I've printed Dillon 750 and 1050 case feed stops and anti-wobble plastic pins for loading 9mm cases on a Dillon presses. I gave a bag full of them to my local indoor and outdoor ranges. They have several Dillons to supply range ammo.

Unnecessary for making a collator, but still interesting I am exploring printer settings, there are a ton of them and many tests built into Cura.

I'm not a CAD person, I had used Microstation to do minor corrections/changes, but that software had enough tools and features to make my head spin. An online buddy put me on to a free/non-commercial download of Fusion, but I found an even simpler way to begin, Tinkercad. I used Tinkercad to design and print a flanged bushing that fits in a Dillon toolhead and hold the camera of a flex bore camera. I use the screen to very powder drop into a case.

[Jackbrush]

I think I skimmed over the overview on the MONGO section gleaned that from this line

We do not recommend using it for large scale bullet collation due to the risk of overloading the motor

I imagine I just didn't read it thoroughly because I'm not building one.

[TylerR]

I think I skimmed over the overview on the MONGO section gleaned that from this line


I imagine I just didn't read it thoroughly because I'm not building one.

Ahh ok. I will probably remove that line, as it is really not necessary. Mongo is really better suited to case collation. since it has such a large capacity, it would be overkill for bullets.

[robpiat]

I'm setting up one with a microswitch and curious how others have mounted the switch to the drop tube. Only one hole lines up and it will need some shims or spacers. If you have a pic that would be helpful!

[dverna]

Actually, TylerR is right. This monkey bought a $500 Creality last year a month ago (now $425), and I've printed 2 bullet feeders and a case feeder just fine without Java. I've been designing homes and buildings (even a grocery store) on Autocad for 40 years...built my first cad computer with a soldering iron (Heath Kit) because I couldn't buy one powerful enough for Cad back then. (I was the first Cad designer in my area....see how old I am?) I tell you that because that's ancient history....I'm much dumber now. Not only Java challenged, but Git challenged as well. But I get by so far, and when TylerR doesn't make what I want to print, I make my own .stl's with Autocad.

I would like to learn Java and the little app on TylerR's downloads....but somebody will have to show me how. But I don't HAVE to have that.

But Dverna, the thing about buying a 3D printer is you can print many things for that $425. You buy the commercial bullet feeder and you spend more than that and it's just one. Then spend another bunch of money for a case feeder.

A roll of plastic is 20 to 25 dollars, and you can print a whole collator and plate with one roll. Buy a motor and a switch and you're on your way. Want to add a caliber? Another caliber plate will cost you 5 hours and 5 dollars worth of plastic....add a caliber with the DAA and get ready to cringe.....expensive, want another caliber.....repeat cringe. I know ...... my MD doctor brother has a DAA, and now he wants me to design and 3d print some plates for him ... that purchase keeps on soaking him. Great product, but expensive as hell.

So look what I have for the one big purchase, my printer, and a few little easy ones:


bullet feeder above has a clutch. Notice the one bullet hangs (redesigned the ramp to stop that) but TylerR's clutch saves the day, this is the real world....hangs can happen....the clutch keeps the motor from binding.

Case feeder below (works every bit as good as Dillon's):


Once you get the printer and print those, then you can branch out and make parts for other things, like I did for my Pro 2000 when I made a lights and camera add on:



It keeps on giving......not soaking.

So once you get a printer and get past that short learning curve, ask lots of questions. (I first printed a T Rex for my grandson) then decide what you want first. If a Bullet Feeder......

1. Print a Collator body. Ask TylerR or one of us which file to print .....
2. Decide what you want to collate first, Rifle? or Pistol? and what caliber...
3. Print a bullet plate, a clutch and a slide for that caliber .... questions on which .stls to print? Just ask here.
4. Order electrical parts, and Print a Switch box.
5. Decide how you want to mount the collator and we will help you with that. (there's more than one way to mount it)
6. Buy a power supply or use a 12V wall wart you already have.

Like I said, I only started a year ago.....doesn't take long to get pretty good at it. Not nearly as good as TylerR, but he's had a lot more years under his belt.

Once you have a printer ordered, download one of the free slicers, like Cura or my personal favorite, IdeaMaker. Slicer choice is a personal thing.......for me and the way I think and process behind the eyes, Idea Maker was easier to learn....for me just organized better. But Cura probably has lot's more users......perhaps I'm sort of a divergent.

The process is to download a print file (.stl) then open it on your slicer, then slice it, once you set the settings. (and we can help you with that, and/or you can look at a lot of videos about slicing on YouTube...not that hard). Then once sliced, you save it to disk where it becomes a Gcode file, that your 3D printer can read and print from. Copy that file to an SD card and plug it into your printer and print away.

GWS,
Thanks for the post, the videos....and the encouragement.

When I could not get the Java thing to work, I went through the manual and picked out the files I needed and if I decide to try this I will heed your advice to check here to make sure I have all the correct files. Tyler has put together a great manual that "even a cave man" can figure out.

Before the current crisis, I shot thousands of rounds of cast bullets a year. 80% .38 Spl and 20% 9mm. I use a Dillon 1050 for those calibers so the only upgrade I wanted was a bullet feeder. What has kept me from "pulling the trigger" has been (rumored) potential issues with lubed bullets not playing well with the bullet feeder. And I have over 20k lubed bullets to load. Also, I have no interest in PC'ed bullets so whatever I get must work with lubed bullets.

I was planning to purchase a Double Alpha feeder die and hand feed it to see if it worked with lubed bullets. If folks here can confirm the bullet feeder Tyler has come up with works on lubed bullets that answers a critical question. I am prepared, and would prefer, to buy a 3D printed bullet seater from someone if they would be kind enough to make one for .38 bullets. Once I know lubed bullets will not cause issues, I can move forward.

In fact, if someone is interested in selling/bartering the 3D printed bits and pieces for a complete unit, that would be of interest. I can handle the mechanical and electrical work to set it up.

[GWS]

Maybe on this particular forum, I shouldn't admit this, but I have never made or shot a Boolit, lubed or otherwise. It just so happens that this thread is THE thread for 3D printed collators, feeder dies, and APP parts. I plan to print and try the 3D feeder dies, but I haven't got to that yet, mainly because I have several Hornady pistol bullet feeder dies, and the new awesome RCBS rifle feeder dies for both .223 and .308. But I plan on printing a few of those yet....I have the ball bearings bought. (btw the RCBS rifle feeder dies are ball bearing actuated....4 balls compared to TylerR's 2 ball plastic versions.

So all that said and admitted to, others will have to tell you whether or not it works with lubed.......if it does, surely they would have to be cleaned a lot to keep them working????

I'm sure several people here are willing to help you with what files you need....TylerR especially knows it all....after all 95 percent of this is his designs. When I can help I will. If you post and don't get an answer fast enough send a private message, or post again. We don't always catch everything though TylerR almost achieves that.

Sounds like you aren't really enamored with buying a printer, and these designs are for personal use not to be marketed and sold. See the patent information. But you say a son prints? That might work....

[Jackbrush]

Ive never used lube myself but I think it hardens to a point where its not greasy but that doesn't mean its not messy. Powder coating gang rise up though.

This is the forefront thread of collators I think.

How did you end up with the project @TylerR ? Wasnt this ammo mikes? I didnt get involved until recently and when I did all the info I found was about DAA sending Mike a cease and desist. Then a couple days after I read that I found this thread.

[GWS]

I think Mike got in trouble when he started encouraging sales.....also he only did the one small original size. But he still gets credit and thanks for starting the 3D printed collator movement. I have one of his collator designs too.....but only for personal use.

TylerR has two collator bases, large and Mongo. But we still use Ammo Mike's idea using OpenScad programmer cad to print many caliber dependent bullet/case collator plates.

And also TylerR does APP caliber quick change, with awesome 3Dprinted upgrades, having parts for the case/bullet shuttle and case/bullet feeding.

I (and others) have also found many other uses for 3D printed "reloading" parts for the hobby. I've improved RCBS's case feeder for their Pro Chucker presses, and made LED lighting video camera supports for progressives too. Even a shelf-mounted Mirror holder for to see into the high collators. And this is probably going to be the tip of the iceberg. Can't wait for the next idea..... Maybe yours....

[TylerR]

I think Mike got in trouble when he started encouraging sales.....also he only did the one small original size. But he still gets credit and thanks for starting the 3D printed collator movement. I have one of his collator designs too.....but only for personal use.

TylerR has two collator bases, large and Mongo. But we still use Ammo Mike's idea using OpenScad programmer cad to print many caliber dependent bullet/case collator plates.

And also TylerR does APP caliber quick change, with awesome 3Dprinted upgrades, having parts for the case/bullet shuttle and case/bullet feeding.

I (and others) have also found many other uses for 3D printed "reloading" parts for the hobby. I've improved RCBS's case feeder for their Pro Chucker presses, and made LED lighting video camera supports for progressives too. Even a shelf-mounted Mirror holder for to see into the high collators. And this is probably going to be the tip of the iceberg. Can't wait for the next idea..... Maybe yours....

Thanks GWS.
Lets not forget the slip clutch, feeding of very long bullets, bulge busting case feeding, all of the bullet feeder dies. Oh and the collator mounted proximity sensor drop tube. Oh wait, that was your idea!

Did we mention the awesome user manual or the parts generator? Thanks 0416!

[o416]

Thanks GWS.
Lets not forget the slip clutch, feeding of very long bullets, bulge busting case feeding, all of the bullet feeder dies. Oh and the collator mounted proximity sensor drop tube. Oh wait, that was your idea!

Did we mention the awesome user manual or the parts generator? Thanks 0416!

Right back at you big guy

[GWS]

Did we mention the awesome user manual or the parts generator? Thanks 0416!

That's something that I was trying to accomplish.....but I failed.....then a smarter guy showed up, and bingo.......the glue that holds this whole project together! I personally think that if RCBS could hire 0416 to organize them and write their manuals, they'd blow everybody else away.....

Addition: I thought about that last night, and decided they might need TylerR's design skills too.....a super team...

[stanford]

That's something that I was trying to accomplish.....but I failed.....then a smarter guy showed up, and bingo.......the glue that holds this whole project together! I personally think that if RCBS could hire 0416 to organize them and write their manuals, they'd blow everybody else away.....

Addition: I thought about that last night, and decided they might need TylerR's design skills too.....a super team...

I would 100% agree with that statement, I have never seen a manual written so in depth like 0416 did.

[dverna]

Good news!!!

One of the "Collator Gang" has taken pity on me, and is sending a bullet drop die to evaluate with lubed bullets. I have been using commercial cast bullets with "hard" lube and will see how this works out and report back. My fall back is to put a coat of BLL on the bullets if lube build up causes problems. BLL dries to a slicker coat. I have enough Johnson One-Step to make enough BLL to last about 25 years...LOL.

Actually, I am OK with having to clean the bullet die every 2000 rounds or so if it works. I rarely load more than 2000 rounds at a time so not a big deal.

Would mineral spirits be safe to clean the part? I am thinking of immersing it in a vibratory cleaner to clean it.

I have read that PLA filament is bio-degradable. That does not give a warm fuzzy feeling.

[Jackbrush]

Really depends on what material it was printed in. For instance, acetone will dissolve ABS but to PETG it wont. PLA reacts to acetone too. I would imagine most solvents would be a bad idea though but thats just me being lazy. Id print the die again if i had to clean it.

PLA is biodegradeable but its like 50 years or so. This stuffs not meant to last forever though, and that's a good thing.

[TylerR]

Good news!!!

One of the "Collator Gang" has taken pity on me, and is sending a bullet drop die to evaluate with lubed bullets. I have been using commercial cast bullets with "hard" lube and will see how this works out and report back. My fall back is to put a coat of BLL on the bullets if lube build up causes problems. BLL dries to a slicker coat. I have enough Johnson One-Step to make enough BLL to last about 25 years...LOL.

Actually, I am OK with having to clean the bullet die every 2000 rounds or so if it works. I rarely load more than 2000 rounds at a time so not a big deal.

Would mineral spirits be safe to clean the part? I am thinking of immersing it in a vibratory cleaner to clean it.

I have read that PLA filament is bio-degradable. That does not give a warm fuzzy feeling.

Most plastics are not going to handle solvents very well. PLA pro is plenty strong in general, and as stated above is going to give plenty of service life. As far as cleaning lube out, I would just hit it with a brass or plastic cleaning brush if it were me. Even a bit of sandpaper or a round file would work. It should be in your hands soon so you can experiment and let us know.

Edited to add: If it is truly the "hard" type lube, I don't see it building up too much. But I could be wrong.

[mktacop]

I just got turned on to this thread last night and have already started downloading/printing files. This is AWESOME!

I have a question about the collator plates though. When I go to download any of them, I get data like this...
solid OpenSCAD_Model
facet normal -0.999506 -0.031438 0
outer loop
vertex 15.9763 0.753486 -7.1
vertex 15.9684 1.00465 -2.5
vertex 15.9684 1.00465 -7.1
endloop
endfacet
facet normal -0.999506 -0.0314383 -0
outer loop
vertex 16 0 -2.5
vertex 15.9763 0.753486 -7.1
vertex 16 0 -7.1


What am I doing wrong?

[TylerR]

I just got turned on to this thread last night and have already started downloading/printing files. This is AWESOME!

I have a question about the collator plates though. When I go to download any of them, I get data like this...
solid OpenSCAD_Model
facet normal -0.999506 -0.031438 0
outer loop
vertex 15.9763 0.753486 -7.1
vertex 15.9684 1.00465 -2.5
vertex 15.9684 1.00465 -7.1
endloop
endfacet
facet normal -0.999506 -0.0314383 -0
outer loop
vertex 16 0 -2.5
vertex 15.9763 0.753486 -7.1
vertex 16 0 -7.1


What am I doing wrong?

It looks like Github is treating the .stl file differently because it was generated via OpenScad. Not sure why. My recommendation would be to download the entire package as a zip file from the main page under the green "Code" button.