Making that Bullet Collator

[johnpcace]

looks cool

[johnpcace]

Anyone using an Hornady LNL AP Press? looks like the drop tube with sensors hits the side of the powder funnel. I was wondering how Y'all got around that?

[Sig]

Anyone using an Hornady LNL AP Press? looks like the drop tube with sensors hits the side of the powder funnel. I was wondering how Y'all got around that?

There's an offset listed in the files. The green piece in the pic.

[Gillie Dog]

Hello "Making that Bullet Collator" thread. I just completed my first collator with the guidance of GWS without whom it would not have happened. And of course all the incredible work of TylerR has done for all of us. Unbelievable.

I have read the thread start to finish and hope to not ask things I have missed.

I am to the point of using the generator to build a collator plate and after reviewing the settings in the manual am wondering if there is a rule of thumb for height of the plate. Is there a problem with running a 17mm tall bullet with a 13mm collator plate? Going to make a .308 plate for M1 Carbine and with the standard 13mm or 18 mm plates was just wondering about it. I see any possible height is available but if a standard height works why not use it. Before a long print I thought I would ask.

Thanks

GD

[GWS]

My experience with pistol bullets is with a Hornady Pistol Collator that I modified to flip bullets, so that's why I'm not the best person to ask this question. I've made 4 collators now, but for pistol and rifle cases, and rifle bullets.....yeah that's 3, the fourth was my first try with Ammo Mikes tiny one that I use on my APP still.....again for rifle bullets and pistol cases and small rifle cases up to .223.

That said, I encourage others to share their experience on plate height and bullet collators. I will say that the Hornady only has one plate and it's thick, and works for everything from 9mm to .357mag, to .45 Acp. So one plate does all. So my first reaction to Gillie Dog's question is that I'd probably start with the 18mm tall one and would expect it to work for most bullets skinny enough to fall in.....I'd probably do .45 caliber and try it with skinnier calibers before I print a plate with skinnier holes.

What say you guys with more experience with pistol collators 3D printed?

[tt365]

I'm betting that the existing plate will work fine. The only one I found a desire to fiddle with was my .380ACP bullets that were near cylindrical. It worked most of the time, but I found that it would hold 2 bullets stacked up in the slots. So it was possible to get one upside down as a result. Or just wedged and stuck. I found adjusting the size helped a lot in that case. In a case where the bullets are a little taller than the plate, you're probably fine. My rifle bullets are a bit taller than the plate and they sort great.

Also try to make sure that you can't stand 2 up side by side in the slots. That's less likely in most cases I would think.

It can feel "wasted" to print and find it won't work for you, but hang on to it unless it's a completely bad print. The "normal" pistol plate didn't work well for those 380 bullets, but it works great for 9mm and 38 special. If I had to pick one to recommend, I'd say use the 13mm. It would eliminate the possibility that you could end up with 2 stacked in the slot, so long as it's tipped back a little so gravity pulls the "extra" off easily. But it doesn't seem likely with only 1mm clearance, so I'm thinking that either will work for your carbine rounds.

[Gillie Dog]

It can feel "wasted" to print and find it won't work for you, but hang on to it unless it's a completely bad print. The "normal" pistol plate didn't work well for those 380 bullets, but it works great for 9mm and 38 special. If I had to pick one to recommend, I'd say use the 13mm. It would eliminate the possibility that you could end up with 2 stacked in the slot, so long as it's tipped back a little so gravity pulls the "extra" off easily. But it doesn't seem likely with only 1mm clearance, so I'm thinking that either will work for your carbine rounds.

Thanks I will give it a try.

With the "bullet_caliber" setting (an adder to bullet diameter for the holes I believe) recommended at 1 to 1.5mm and default to 1.2 it should be easy to tune it in.

I will print and see how it goes.

Thanks again

GD

[GWS]

Keep in mind you have the flipper feature on the right side of the collator opening....you really don't want bullets sticking up to interfere with it. I prefer my plates to be taller than the bullets by at least some. The 9mm round nose I have, measure 15mm tall. 17mm plates recess them by a whole 2mm, so if a bullet double stacks the flipper will send it to the bottom. I prefer that to possible interference with the flipper with bullets sticking up. On that note, I admit I never in my life have loaded .380.....and never will. Way inferior to 9mm or larger calibers, IMO.

[akochevar]

I apologize in advance if this is an already covered topic but I could not find what I was looking for in the search. I printed the bullet feed dies last night and for the life of me cannot see how the ball bearings are supposed to be assembled. Also, I did end up having quite a bit of interference between the 2 parts that I assume was printer calibrations. Ill work that out, but if anyone has any instructions on assembling and testing I would appreciate it.

[GWS]

page 15 of the manual:



2 ball bearing 2 sets of 3 holes. One bearing per side. Which hole depends on the length of your bullet. But use the same hole on each side. Top middle or bottom....one should work. Notice the page talks about acetone to smooth the walls and make the two parts fit....try that first. TylerR may add some tried and true wisdom to this simple explanation.....

These obviously, are not as robust as steel ones.....but if you just use care and don't abuse them they should last a long time....just don't knock them around. I speak from experience. Love the things.... if you don't use a polypropylene bed, get one and save yourself some grief.

https://www.amazon.com/3103103mm-Mam...5802575&sr=8-1

My part "A"'s never fall over with this bed at 215C nozzle and 65C bed. No glue, tape or rafts ever required

[akochevar]

I got everything fiting together nicely. It seems like the ball bearings are supposed to fit "just right" into the holes without going all the way through, is that true?

[GWS]

If they went all the way though they would be on the floor and of no use.

[silahtar]

First part printed, unfortunately the green filment only lasted to about 70%, but final result wasn’t to bad anyway.

Haha, same thing happened to me, that was why I suggested separating the bottom and side wall that are later held together by screws... Looks good though...

[RHohman]

Hello to all. I have been wanting to thank some folks in the group. I could not post because I missed my confirming email and that got fixed today! So thanks out to TylerR, GWS and AmmoMike who got me going down this rabbit hole. Tyler your bullet feeders are awesome, as well as the work that you have put into this project. GWS for jumping in and answering questions and helping people figure things out. I have read ( over a month) this entire thread. Kept notes so I didn't have to ask newbie questions. I have built the bullet collator and printed some of the plates as well. In 2016 I made my own case feeder using an old cut down 5 gallon bucket. It works for .223, .308, 45acp, 38 and 357 brass. I have just finished building a 3d printer with a bed size of X 325mm, Y 415mm & Z 574mm. I well as the bullet Collator works, I have to build a Mongo case feeder to go with the Bullet Collator. When I figure out how to upload a picture, I will upload a picture of my setup.
I would also like to share where I have gotten some of my parts. One is a place called AllElectronics. I have gotten 3 amp and 10 amp speed controller for motors. The motor that I used on my case feeder is from them as well. They have relays, opto relays that I use as the opto interrupter to stop the motor. These have been going since the fall of 2016 and no issues at all. I use the same items on the Bullet Collator. I will Add a link to the store (hope thats ok, if not let me know and I will remove it)
The motor (like the dayton one different mounting Dimensions) https://www.allelectronics.com/item/...rntable/1.html The turntable is easily removed. I am modifing the Mongo Stl to accommodate this motor.
Light Controlled relay https://www.allelectronics.com/item/...-12-vdc/1.html Lots of connectors, switches and other cool stuff.

[RHohman]

Guess I should have read the stickies before posting..... Here is my soon to be changed setup.

[TylerR]

Hello to all. I have been wanting to thank some folks in the group. I could not post because I missed my confirming email and that got fixed today! So thanks out to TylerR, GWS and AmmoMike who got me going down this rabbit hole. Tyler your bullet feeders are awesome, as well as the work that you have put into this project. GWS for jumping in and answering questions and helping people figure things out. I have read ( over a month) this entire thread. Kept notes so I didn't have to ask newbie questions. I have built the bullet collator and printed some of the plates as well. In 2016 I made my own case feeder using an old cut down 5 gallon bucket. It works for .223, .308, 45acp, 38 and 357 brass. I have just finished building a 3d printer with a bed size of X 325mm, Y 415mm & Z 574mm. I well as the bullet Collator works, I have to build a Mongo case feeder to go with the Bullet Collator. When I figure out how to upload a picture, I will upload a picture of my setup.
I would also like to share where I have gotten some of my parts. One is a place called AllElectronics. I have gotten 3 amp and 10 amp speed controller for motors. The motor that I used on my case feeder is from them as well. They have relays, opto relays that I use as the opto interrupter to stop the motor. These have been going since the fall of 2016 and no issues at all. I use the same items on the Bullet Collator. I will Add a link to the store (hope thats ok, if not let me know and I will remove it)
The motor (like the dayton one different mounting Dimensions) https://www.allelectronics.com/item/...rntable/1.html The turntable is easily removed. I am modifing the Mongo Stl to accommodate this motor.
Light Controlled relay https://www.allelectronics.com/item/...-12-vdc/1.html Lots of connectors, switches and other cool stuff.

Now this is the kind of post I can get behind. I love when guys do their homework and come share with the group. Thank you! And yes GWS is the man!
Any questions you might have please fire away.

[RHohman]

Thanks Tyler. I am in the process of modifying the Main body Mongo STL to fit the motor from All Electronics. I purchased several when I made my case feeder. If anyone would like it when I finish it, I am happy to share it.

[TylerR]

Thanks Tyler. I am in the process of modifying the Main body Mongo STL to fit the motor from All Electronics. I purchased several when I made my case feeder. If anyone would like it when I finish it, I am happy to share it.

Wait. I just realized you are planning to use the light sensor? Prox sensor is far superior.

[RHohman]

Wait. I just realized you are planning to use the light sensor? Prox sensor is far superior.

Yep, been running the case feeder with the light sensor since early 2017 and no problems at all. I did the same with the bullet feeder. I love the sensor knobs, makes is so nice when changing calibers.

[GWS]

Files promised to M500 below: (or anyone else interested in his relay project I'm sure he'll share.) This is a modified relayed switch and speed control to fit a relay board M500 wants to add to the prox switch controls.



I noticed a minor mistake in the Lid file. It showed up in the picture above.... correction re-submitted so download again.

new box 3.zip

Also below is a picture of the relay circuit added to the original speed control circuit board....even has a read out which I have no idea what it's for! For which the window was added in the lid. Maybe M500 will explain.