Making that Bullet Collator

[sierra1911]

Dear all, What am i missing here. i cant figure what screws should be going into the clutch so that the nut is properly retained while the correct size screw passes through the body of the clutch. See picture. Attachment 327656

I used 6-32x3/4” flathead screws inserted from the bottom of the clutch and 4-40x1/4” to secure the handle.

[Jaak]

So I printed the two parts but the bolt that the original Lee brass feeder comes with does not fit into the hole of the Main Bracket. The head of the bolt fits perfectly into the cutout, but not the length of the bolt. Do I need a different bolt, or do I need to check for problems with my printer?

[whitepointer]

I used 6-32x3/4” flathead screws inserted from the bottom of the clutch and 4-40x1/4” to secure the handle.

Thank you for the measurements

[whitepointer]

Check out the user manual, page 10.

Thank you TylerR

[GWS]

So I printed the two parts but the bolt that the original Lee brass feeder comes with does not fit into the hole of the Main Bracket. The head of the bolt fits perfectly into the cutout, but not the length of the bolt. Do I need a different bolt, or do I need to check for problems with my printer?

As stated in Tyler's manual, Layer Height for the Electrical box, and collator base can be .20mm all other parts that have to fit tight tolerances should be printed at .12mm layer height. So if you printed at .20 that might be your fit problem.

I've slept a few months since I did that project, so I don't remember if Lees bolt was long enough......if it wasn't then obviously I went to Ace hardware and bought a bolt a little longer. Sorry just don't remember. Just touching all bases ..... I think you meant the hole for the bolt was tight. If so, then you probably printed at .20 not .12. If not then maybe your machine does need tuned. Another base I should touch on.......The bolt goes through the Main bracket (insert holder), and a nut under to secure it.........then you drop the Main bracket (insert holder) into the hole in the press and add another nut underneath the press mounting hole. So there is a nut on both top and bottom of the 6000 mounting hole.....otherwise the holder will be too short for the inserts to have clearance.

And BTW, if it was me, and my bolt wouldn't go through the hole the length of the insert holder, I would drill it out with a drill bit before I printed another......unless the insert won't go in either.

[TylerR]

Thank you TylerR

Your welcome! a lot of the answers are covered in that manual. It is still DIY so some of it you just have to figure out, or review this thread. Pretty sure every question known to man has come up at a time or two here.

[GWS]

Your welcome! a lot of the answers are covered in that manual. It is still DIY so some of it you just have to figure out, or review this thread. Pretty sure every question known to man has come up at a time or two here.

The manual was a God Send......yes, you can review this thread....and everything has come up......but finding it in 7287 posts and 183 pages is daunting! I tried to make an index once.......after a few days trying, I gave it up......not dedicated enough I guess.

Maybe AI could help?????

[Jaak]

As stated in Tyler's manual, Layer Height for the Electrical box, and collator base can be .20mm all other parts that have to fit tight tolerances should be printed at .12mm layer height. So if you printed at .20 that might be your fit problem.

I've slept a few months since I did that project, so I don't remember if Lees bolt was long enough......if it wasn't then obviously I went to Ace hardware and bought a bolt a little longer. Sorry just don't remember. Just touching all bases ..... I think you meant the hole for the bolt was tight. If so, then you probably printed at .20 not .12. If not then maybe your machine does need tuned. Another base I should touch on.......The bolt goes through the Main bracket (insert holder), and a nut under to secure it.........then you drop the Main bracket (insert holder) into the hole in the press and add another nut underneath the press mounting hole. So there is a nut on both top and bottom of the 6000 mounting hole.....otherwise the holder will be too short for the inserts to have clearance.

And BTW, if it was me, and my bolt wouldn't go through the hole the length of the insert holder, I would drill it out with a drill bit before I printed another......unless the insert won't go in either.

That's exactly what I did, drilled it out. Now it fits.

[JStuhlmiller]

Thank you for the measurements

6-32 and #6 6-32 hex nuts. i buy the 6-32 face plate screws for switch plates

[GWS]

I made a new part that couples small and large twistlock parts together to make case feeding on Lee's 6000 easy!.....using TylerR's Prox parts below the collator, fed to a spring, then to clear tubing, moving inside stationary tubing and finally to TylerR's quick change insert tubes, works super!

The need was discovered when I attempted to convert my Pro 6000 case feeder to work with TylerR's Prox switch system under the collator, which I prefer over the one I came up with. (no breakage, the fancy Tee on mine I've broken twice not being careful enough)

Videos Explain this setup:





The Spring Adapter parts come with 2 separate twist lock sizes top and bottom, so the need for a coupler.....the red part in the middle between the spring adapter DT which is the small connector, and the clear tube adapter, which is the large one. Have designed 3 of them large, medium, and small as is supplied with the adapters normally used above the quick change caliber case inserts to go into the DT.

Below is a picture of the parts used......L to R:
1. RCBS_Drop_Hole_Tube_Adapter_Large which connects with the large twistlock, into one end of the New Lg.-to-Sm. twistlock coupler I printed.
(I glued into the bottom of that adapter, a short piece of 15mm/16mm size ID/OD clear tube...
2. The Lg.-to-Sm. Twistlock Coupler....the red part.
3. TylerR's #11 Spring Fittings for my 11mm I.D spring (Spring_Adapter_11_DT and Spring_Adapter_11......the green parts.) Notice the top adapter is the large twistlock and the bottom one the small twist lock.
4. TylerR's Proximity switch assembly with the #10 tube.

[GWS]

Here's the Zip with the three sizes used depending on case diameter....

Double_TwistLok_Drop_Tube_Adapter_ L_M_S.zip

On my 9mm test the Medium works great.

One caveat....I never can remember how to insert labels.....the arrow is there, TylerR's logo is there, but the size was on the part of his
tube adaptor that I cut off.......where I added the big twistlok instead......So either use Magic Marker or maybe TylerR will adopt & add these and add the "S", "M", "L" to the new fat end of the part.

[kostianych]

hello
After visiting my friend and watching his Dillon 750 with a working bullet and case feeders, I finally decided to hit that slippery road and print myself the feeders using Tyler's plans ))) what a joy!!!! Everything turns out great.... well, if I don't screw up, but that is a different story ))
Finally the final assembling moment came and I have a quick question: what is the correct way to install the slide adjuster? Ramped or Flat side up? This is for the small brass, like 9x19 )))
Is this correct? Thanks a lot
K

[TylerR]

hello
After visiting my friend and watching his Dillon 750 with a working bullet and case feeders, I finally decided to hit that slippery road and print myself the feeders using Tyler's plans ))) what a joy!!!! Everything turns out great.... well, if I don't screw up, but that is a different story ))
Finally the final assembling moment came and I have a quick question: what is the correct way to install the slide adjuster? Ramped or Flat side up? This is for the small brass, like 9x19 )))
Is this correct? Thanks a lot
K

Ramp side up just like you have it. The ramp is not used when feeding pistol brass, so just slide it all the way open.

[kostianych]

Thanks Tyler, a lot now it makes sense )))

[MSUICEMAN]

I see a Dillon round dual mount in the contributor section.... Any way to have a dual mount version that mounts to the 1050 square tube (maybe there is one and I just don't know about it)? refurbing a 1050 and may go dual of these feeders rather than the big collator (that I am fixing) which came with the 1050 (long/short it looked like someone threw the 1050 into a muddy field and ran it over with a tractor, so its been a project).

[TylerR]

I see a Dillon round dual mount in the contributor section.... Any way to have a dual mount version that mounts to the 1050 square tube (maybe there is one and I just don't know about it)? refurbing a 1050 and may go dual of these feeders rather than the big collator (that I am fixing) which came with the 1050 (long/short it looked like someone threw the 1050 into a muddy field and ran it over with a tractor, so its been a project).

There are currently several square tube mounts. Kc10Kevin in contributors, as well as a vertical and horizontal square tube mount in the mounts folder.

[MSUICEMAN]

yeah, the square tube mounts are either singles for a vertical tube, or for a horizontal tube (supported by a square tube mounted to the vertical round tube).

I have taken a double mount (believe it was tander's) and edited it to mount to a single square vertical tube that the 1050 has. going to print it in the next day or two. we shall see.

[tdogg]

Well I finally got my Sovol SV08. It is really nice and a pretty big step up from the Ender 3 V2. I really didn't need to do anything to get it running (aside from the Z-Offset issues everyone seems to have) and I retensioned the x & y belts. I'm still waiting for the enclosure and other spare parts I ordered. Sovol really screwed up with this release. They didn't have nearly enough inventory built up. I was supposed to get this in May and just got it last week (end of July). They are supposed to be giving me a free spool of filament for waiting but I think they need to do more. Regardless it is here and it has been printing non stop for 5 days or so.

It prints comfortably twice as fast as my ender and with tuning I bet I can get it faster. I'm printing right now at 150mm/s and I think it can run up to 200mm/s with some temperature tuning. It is crazy fast and legit was able to print a Benchy in 15 mins that looked great.

Regardless, I have put together my first Mongo brass collator and setup my Rollsizer decapper to be fed by it. You were correct the M634JS motor is plenty strong and fast enough. I'm running it at about 50% power and it keeps up with the autodecapper at full speed. It is way faster than the old Dillon two speed case feeder.

I wish the bowl capacity was greater. It seems to choke with too much brass loaded and it starts to feed cases upside down. It may benefit from a steeper angle but I haven't spent any time tuning it.

I'm using the Dillon Drop Hole Clear Tube Adapter with the clear vinyl tubing that the decapper came with. It works but the vinyl tubing is thicker than the dillon clear plastic tube and the brass hangs up on it. Can I get CAD file of the drop hole adapter so I can modify it for the vinyl tubing? I plan on making the through hole smaller (so the brass can't hang up on it) and lengthening the tube holding portion so it has more retention.





Many thanks again for sharing this with the masses! I plan on putting together another Mongo brass feeder for my rollsizer as well. That will make brass processing really streamlined!

Cheers,
Toby

[rogerandre]

Well I finally got my Sovol SV08. It is really nice and a pretty big step up from the Ender 3 V2. I really didn't need to do anything to get it running (aside from the Z-Offset issues everyone seems to have) and I retensioned the x & y belts. I'm still waiting for the enclosure and other spare parts I ordered. Sovol really screwed up with this release. They didn't have nearly enough inventory built up. I was supposed to get this in May and just got it last week (end of July). They are supposed to be giving me a free spool of filament for waiting but I think they need to do more. Regardless it is here and it has been printing non stop for 5 days or so.

It prints comfortably twice as fast as my ender and with tuning I bet I can get it faster. I'm printing right now at 150mm/s and I think it can run up to 200mm/s with some temperature tuning. It is crazy fast and legit was able to print a Benchy in 15 mins that looked great.

Regardless, I have put together my first Mongo brass collator and setup my Rollsizer decapper to be fed by it. You were correct the M634JS motor is plenty strong and fast enough. I'm running it at about 50% power and it keeps up with the autodecapper at full speed. It is way faster than the old Dillon two speed case feeder.

I wish the bowl capacity was greater. It seems to choke with too much brass loaded and it starts to feed cases upside down. It may benefit from a steeper angle but I haven't spent any time tuning it.

I'm using the Dillon Drop Hole Clear Tube Adapter with the clear vinyl tubing that the decapper came with. It works but the vinyl tubing is thicker than the dillon clear plastic tube and the brass hangs up on it. Can I get CAD file of the drop hole adapter so I can modify it for the vinyl tubing? I plan on making the through hole smaller (so the brass can't hang up on it) and lengthening the tube holding portion so it has more retention.





Many thanks again for sharing this with the masses! I plan on putting together another Mongo brass feeder for my rollsizer as well. That will make brass processing really streamlined!

Cheers,
Toby

Looks cool. What autodecapper are you using ?

[tdogg]

I have the Rollsizer auto decapper. I picked it up off the staff prize table at the IPSC nationals at Rio Salado. It took a little tweaking to get it sorted (and a number of broken decapping pins) but it seems to be running well now. It run's at 3600 cases per hour and can handle dirty brass and hence was the reason for wanting a dedicated Mongo brass collator to feed it. I don't have to worry about dirty brass contaminating my Dillon collator on the S1050.

I reverse engineered the drop tube adapter and made the adjustments so brass doesn't hang up on the vinyl drop tubing any more. I processed a ~5 gallon bucket of 9mm last night without issue. The Mongo feeder seems to have about 1 out of every 750 cases fed upside down (case head up). The decapper just stops but you have to be there to shut it off and clear the jam. The FW Arms decapper will pierce the primer if the case feeds upside down, it's beefy. The Mongo feeder definitely runs plenty fast to feed the decapper. It can run faster than the drop funnel can feed them down the tube!

What is needed to get parts I created for this effort in the contributors folder? I have the vinyl drop tube adapter, electronics box variants, and other stuff I could share if desired.

Cheers,
Toby