Making that Bullet Collator

[GWS]

RJZ5400: Obviously the picture taken was just a little too soon and the pattern wasn't complete, for it to turn out that well. That it Worked, is the main thing. Great!

TylerR: I was shocked & awed today when UPS brought my shorty long range Proximity Sensor from China more than a week early! That's not normal these days.....

Won't be able to test it for another several days....leaving town today. Maybe it will work better on my tee than the cheapies. Your Tee with the #12 downtube seems to work fine for 223 case feeding.

This is the Autonics PRD18-14DN2. 18 refers to the thread dia.......14 refers to the sensing distance, both in MM.

Was also surprised that the sensor tip is green, not the usual blue or yellow. Of course you all know I have a lot of green on my bench, but unfortunately, Pea Green doesn't go that well.



The length of it only barely fits my Tee, but it'll work I think.....we will see if the added sensitivity improves things, when I get back home.

[TylerR]

k.....we will see if the added sensitivity improves things, when I get back home.

could you just remove the retaining nut and slide it in further? Mine is designed to just be a friction fit.

[GWS]

could you just removing the retaining nut and slide it in further? Mine is designed to just be a friction fit.

Yeah, mine too. I guess the retaining nut isn't necessary....just a comfort thing that really does nothing.....not like it can unscrew with the cord out the back and wired.

[Qeyes]

Good luck. I am still interested in the double switch, fill the tube all at once approach. Just not going to do the R&D myself.

This is my take on the wiring of the electrical. I have a forward and reverse switch and a puchbutton to activate reverse.



Home made wiring diagram made in publisher



I was curious to see if I could make it work with two sensors. So it fills bullets until they reach the top sensor and then the engine stops.
Then it starts when the last bullet passed the lower sensor

I made it work but I had to use two relays with NO / NC
I've just tested it on the kitchen table. with the stuff temporarily hooked up


with two sensors

[TylerR]

This is my take on the wiring of the electrical. I have a forward and reverse switch and a puchbutton to activate reverse.

Home made wiring diagram made in publisher

I was curious to see if I could make it work with two sensors. So it fills bullets until they reach the top sensor and then the engine stops.
Then it starts when the last bullet passed the lower sensor

I made it work but I had to use two relays with NO / NC
I've just tested it on the kitchen table. with the stuff temporarily hooked up

That setup looks very clean, and love the diagrams. A lot more professional then mine.
I would love to see the two sensor system in action once you get it all setup.

[Qeyes]

That setup looks very clean, and love the diagrams. A lot more professional then mine.
I would love to see the two sensor system in action once you get it all setup.

I do not know if I will use the system with two sensors. It gets very crowded in the electronics box with two relays. I was most curious if I could make it work.

[GWS]

I probably won't rock the proximity sensor boat I have floating now. Too easy to just turn the switch off, and flip it back on when I want some more....that is if the intermittent noise of it dropping one more automatically after every stroke ever gets to me......so far, it doesn't bother me at all.

[rjz5400]

That's so funny, I came to the same conclusion independently today, although I may switch a little buzzer at the bottom for when there are 3 or 4 bullets left and have the drop tube at the top interrupt power in case I forget to shut it off again.

Idk I'm probably over thinking it while I wait for my china springs

[TylerR]

I created a mount for anyone who wants to attach the collator to a 1" post directly from the bench.

https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob...Post_1inch.stl

[GWS]

I created a mount for anyone who wants to attach the collator to a 1" post directly from the bench.

https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob...Post_1inch.stl

Very nice.....but it never ends.....

What do I mean? Well shucks, that base could be a great place to store a set of Allen wrenches....just need some matching holes in it! Or how about one for 1" square tubing instead of the round conduit pipe? See? Never ending..... One of these days you may have to just go into hiding....

[TylerR]

Very nice.....but it never ends.....

What do I mean? Well shucks, that base could be a great place to store a set of Allen wrenches....just need some matching holes in it! Or how about one for 1" square tubing instead of the round conduit pipe? See? Never ending..... One of these days you may have to just go into hiding....

Haha, that's why I usually just make what I need and share it. But I have done requests also.

[rjz5400]

I have what may be a dumb question... As payment see the photo, I'm testing using my variable DC power supply if just inputting my geacan motor at 2v and make sure it doesn't heat up or burn up or something. Because buck converters are cheap as hell and very simple I have a few already. So wall wort to buck convertor will give me from 2 3 4 5 6 7on up to the input voltage...

Is there an assembly instruction picture or text? Mostly order of operations and screw sizes. Some of the various features look to be direct thread so I don't really want to wing it if they were designed for a specific thread. I bought the linked metric hardware kit off Amazon.

You can just barely see my clutch in light Dillon blue and the input voltage/amperage. Best geuss is 2 rpm at 2v DC.

[GWS]

Not convinced such a thing is necessary. The first time I needed to reduce speed on a collator, I just replaced the 12V wall wart with a 9V. But that was just an immediate need. Ordered a better PMW speed control which I still use. But that one is no longer available so I won't give the link. However......having just searched again, I found another that even includes a rocker on/off/reverse switch....on a smaller board even. (32x50mm!) I most likely would have tried this if they had been available then. A little lighter duty than the one I have, but mostly will work and last fine if you use a relay.

There is a warning not to reverse polarity though.....center two lugs are positive.

Here's a picture and a link: https://www.amazon.com/RioRand-Contr...71H2YQG5&psc=1



As for your other question, some of that is available in the project manual....but I just used what I had....if it fits.........if not a trip to a hardware store happened.

[TylerR]

I have what may be a dumb question... As payment see the photo, I'm testing using my variable DC power supply if just inputting my geacan motor at 2v and make sure it doesn't heat up or burn up or something. Because buck converters are cheap as hell and very simple I have a few already. So wall wort to buck convertor will give me from 2 3 4 5 6 7on up to the input voltage...

Is there an assembly instruction picture or text? Mostly order of operations and screw sizes. Some of the various features look to be direct thread so I don't really want to wing it if they were designed for a specific thread. I bought the linked metric hardware kit off Amazon.

You can just barely see my clutch in light Dillon blue and the input voltage/amperage. Best geuss is 2 rpm at 2v DC.

There is no assembly video or guide. Once you print the parts, based on the user manual, assembly is very straight forward. None of the parts are threaded. It is either a screw/bolt or machine screw. To compliment the hardware you got, you may want to pick up an assortment of small machine screws. I use #2 x 1/4" screws for a bunch of things, but also some slightly larger and longer ones.

[silahtar]

Hi everyone, I now have a regular size unit and a Mongo that works perfectly with my new Pro Chucker 7 station reloader. Cranking 100 rounds in about 5 minutes...!!! I have a suggestion with respect to control box mounting location, don't recall this came up in the past.

Per the first picture I mounted the smaller unit to the Mongo using the hanger, when that happens control box will have to move to the right side of the mongo but that would be far away from my reach, so temporarily I've fixed the control box to the post base. Hopefully, pictures will tell a better story... It turned out to be a great spot for the control box for me...

I've just started working on an in-between piece; if anybody else would be interested I can share with Tyler...



P.S. This is what it'll look like, I'll start printing it tomorrow...

[TylerR]

Hi everyone, I now have a regular size unit and a Mongo that works perfectly with my new Pro Chucker 7 station reloader. Cranking 100 rounds in about 5 minutes...!!! I have a suggestion with respect to control box mounting location, don't recall this came up in the past.

Per the first picture I mounted the smaller unit to the Mongo using the hanger, when that happens control box will have to move to the right side of the mongo but that would be far away from my reach, so temporarily I've fixed the control box to the post base. Hopefully, pictures will tell a better story... It turned out to be a great spot for the control box for me...

I've just started working on an in-between piece; if anybody else would be interested I can share with Tyler...



P.S. This is what it'll look like, I'll start printing it tomorrow...

Looks great. If anyone is interested I can certainly add it to the contributors folder.

[GWS]

Hi everyone, I now have a regular size unit and a Mongo that works perfectly with my new Pro Chucker 7 station reloader. Cranking 100 rounds in about 5 minutes...!!! I have a suggestion with respect to control box mounting location, don't recall this came up in the past.

Per the first picture I mounted the smaller unit to the Mongo using the hanger, when that happens control box will have to move to the right side of the mongo but that would be far away from my reach, so temporarily I've fixed the control box to the post base. Hopefully, pictures will tell a better story... It turned out to be a great spot for the control box for me...

I've just started working on an in-between piece; if anybody else would be interested I can share with Tyler...

Too late for me, mine are all done. Nice to see another ProChucker 7 owner is into the 3D printing hobby! Thought I was all alone. I would think that would be more common since the "tube" loaders RCBS makes are crying for collators.

The concept and execution looks good tho. Good job! What all have you loaded on that progressive press? Any rifle yet?

[silahtar]

Too late for me, mine are all done. Nice to see another ProChucker 7 owner is into the 3D printing hobby! Thought I was all alone. I would think that would be more common since the "tube" loaders RCBS makes are crying for collators.

The concept and execution looks good tho. Good job! What all have you loaded on that progressive press? Any rifle yet?

Thanks, started with RCBS Piggyback II conversion on a Rockchucker in 1994, had Pro2000 in between and now Pro Chucker 7. The only issue I have so far is that few kernels of powder tend to jump out of a 9mm case easily. Way messier compared to my Piggyback and Pro2000. So far reloaded .45ACP and .357Mag but around 12k of 9mm, no rifle rounds yet. My rifle shooting is more of a single-stage press activity...

Put this video together for a friend, ignore texts...

[mktacop]

I decided that I wanted the Bullet Feeder Electronics Box mounted in a different location where it was easier to reach. I designed a mount bracket that allows it to be clamped onto either a 1” square tube, or a 1” round tube. I used M6 bolts and nuts since that is what I had on hand.

I glued my electronics box onto the mount, but have since gone back and made it where it would attach with bolts using TylerR’s mounting holes.

I can supply the files if anyone is interested.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[GWS]

......

I've just started working on an in-between piece; if anybody else would be interested I can share with Tyler...

P.S. This is what it'll look like, I'll start printing it tomorrow...

I like the way it hugs the vertical tube.... not likely my mits would collide and break it.

I plan to share with you some PC7 3d printed stuff, but won't take space on this collator thread....will send a private post....and you are welcome to use or toss what you will.

I'm surprised you have powder kernals flinging around. My PC7 press revolves way smoother than the Pro 2000 I also use. Dillon's and Pro 2000's are noted for flinging powder from shallow cases as well....at least new out of the box. That stick rising into the shell plate holes was designed to mitigate that jerk on revolving to the next station. Somethings not quite right...maybe too tight?

Video is great! You are right, not many loading videos of that press.