Making that Bullet Collator

[heliskyr]

Thats very cool! Wiring everything up was the most challenging part of this project for me, so your solution would greatly simplify the electronics part for electrically-challenged folks like me. Id take you up on a couple of boards for future feeders

[GWS]

I've been working on designing a PCB (circuit board) that the relay could be soldered onto along with terminal blocks for the connection to the switch, Power supply, motor control, sensor and motor. My thinking is this would make connecting everything simpler and eliminate some of the need to solder wires together and reduce the rats nest in the box. It would also allow things like the sensor to be swapped out easily in the event of a component failure.

I had layed it out based on the old schematic. Trying to determine if it is necessary to change it based on the new wiring diagram.

looks like I could get 20 PCB printed in China pretty cheap. Not sure how long they would take to get here though. I may get a batch of them printed when I finalize things and offer a few of the extras here if there is interest.

Here is what it might look like. Dimension are approx 61mm X 47mm

Looks promising, but that would be two pcbs since the speed control I used has one about the same size. Since I took the collator down today to rewire it I took a picture of the rats nest. The only soldering required was the four posts above the blue relay closest in the picture.



As you can see, with the existing pcb and the relay, it's pretty full. So I assume you are thinking TylerR's biggest box? or bigger still? My box that's full already won't handle it, for sure. (pictured below) Now if you could duplicate the speed control pcb only wider to include four holes for the relay, that would be most awesome.

[rjz5400]

I have a few questions i have been reading this thread for a couple weeks and printing a few parts at a time. Im currently about 12 hours into the main body!!

I will share some experience to try to add something and list my questions second.
I am using esun PLA+ on an ender 3 v2 mostly stock with yellow springs. (the light blue is not a good match for dillon blue, in eSun I think between their light and dark would be better)
it prints amazingly well, it does need the height tuned in very tight and i'm running it at 210 65 with fan down from 255 to 101 and off for the first 5 or so layers. i will try to edit with a photo of my main body for your viewing pleasure. I am also in New Mexico shooting 3 gun basically all my reloading is for that.

Also i had no issues installing java on my MAC and running the generator program, although it saved the pdf to my desktop i just moved it into my BF556 folder. 10.13.6 and current java download im guessing. I did have to give it special permission to trust java and the generator JAR and use some JAR opener software i didn't even know was on my computer.

Lastly I did notice a downgrade in the surface of my bullet feed "ramps" leading away from the pockets due to the infill settings having such a wide gap in them, hopefully a picture shows it started printing the tapered ramps in mid air. it eventually piled up and achieved the desired goal but in the future i'll probably choose a "tighter weave" on the infill to better support the top skin layers. again hopefully i can edit for pics.

1. any old 8mm hex couplers can be made to work right? the linked ones are OOS ATM (out of stock At The Moment)
2. Can a Buck convertor be reliably used to just lower the input Voltage instead of a PMW which pulses power rapidly on off but at 12v? I am using the cheaper 64j3s motor i have a few buck converters laying around already to just do a steady 3 or 6 or 9 or 11v to get a reasonable speed for each caliber
3. I thought i saw someone (GWS?) say the mix spring kit listed in the current Zip has 10 or so springs that work on the dropper die is that correct? i'd rather not do a separate order from McMaster carr with their shipping. I'd do will call but who knows when i'll go back to ABQ next.
4. I would much rather deal with the mechanics and leverage issues of a cheaper flipper sensor switch and I can use them with other projects like automatic lights in cabinets and my van etc, any issues using those just direct wired inline with the speed controller to interrupt the positive ? I do understand length and weight an position might be an issue but again CHEAP. and I get switches, the other sensors not so much. i plan on 55gr, 75gr, and 124gr maybe some larger also


Thanks to all the contributors!! and posters here, i'm waiting to here about the latching relay for a quieter reloading room, i'd love to fill the stiff alibaba springs once every 20 boolets instead of every. single. bullet.

I'll probably end up modding my dillon case feeder too with a similar system or replacing it if I buy a bigger 3d printer!

[GWS]

Wow! What percent infill are you using? That's a long ways to print mid air. Picture below is an example of what I usually do: (17 to 20%.....picture is 20%) In case you're curious, I slice with IdeaMaker's gyroid infill pattern, because it slices faster than any other pattern they offer.




The spring packet I commented on was ordered from this source: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._title_o06_s00

[rjz5400]

i used the manual suggested 10% for the shell plate and the same pattern as the pictured main body but i guess the % changes the size or something id have to play around with it to see what has the smallest gaps for the top layers when it is important.
its hard to tell but the zoomed out photo is the main body @ 30% infill and the zoomed way in photo is the bullet feed plate #5 at 10% i think the various infill patterns scale in a different way, at least not how i think. Better head to youtube before my next large flat print.

I use CURA and its called cubic subdivision. I swapped those springs for the ones you are using GWS as i only need them for the dies and it is just as cheap to get the whole kit as buyin 10 on mcmaster.

[GWS]

i used the manual suggested 10% for the shell plate and the same pattern as the pictured main body but i guess the % changes the size or something id have to play around with it to see what has the smallest gaps for the top layers when it is important.
its hard to tell but the zoomed out photo is the main body @ 30% infill and the zoomed way in photo is the bullet feed plate #5 at 10% i think the various infill patterns scale in a different way, at least not how i think. Better head to youtube before my next large flat print.

I use CURA and its called cubic subdivision. I swapped those springs for the ones you are using GWS as i only need them for the dies and it is just as cheap to get the whole kit as buyin 10 on mcmaster.

Yup, that's what I found.....I have two sets, and I'll probably never use most of those other springs. Sure like TylerR's feeder dies!

[GWS]

I ordered these Hex Adaptors in 2020, and they worked fine and are in stock at the moment. I DID have to file/grind off the inside of the set screws so they don't stick out. Wasn't too hard. (I clamped a nut on some small needle nosed vise grips....screwed the set screw into the nut, leaving the hex wrench inserted....laid the nut against the side of the grinder wheel....the turned the hex screw into the grinder until it was short enough. That way when the setscrews are unscrewed, the start thread is reset and good.)

https://www.amazon.com/Magic-Shell-A...7K7FKWJC&psc=1



Okay, I answered the two easy questions.....You need TylerR to answer the next two. I will say I tried the micro lever switches first....I was alway's having to adjust them....PIA, so I looked for another answer.

[TylerR]

I've been working on designing a PCB (circuit board) that the relay could be soldered onto along with terminal blocks for the connection to the switch, Power supply, motor control, sensor and motor. My thinking is this would make connecting everything simpler and eliminate some of the need to solder wires together and reduce the rats nest in the box. It would also allow things like the sensor to be swapped out easily in the event of a component failure.

I had layed it out based on the old schematic. Trying to determine if it is necessary to change it based on the new wiring diagram.

looks like I could get 20 PCB printed in China pretty cheap. Not sure how long they would take to get here though. I may get a batch of them printed when I finalize things and offer a few of the extras here if there is interest.

Here is what it might look like. Demension are approx 61mm X 47mm

I like the concept. For sure. I would say it should be changed to the new concept for the reasons mentioned. Less on/off cycles on the speed controller. Its really a longevity of parts question.

[TylerR]

I have a few questions i have been reading this thread for a couple weeks and printing a few parts at a time. Im currently about 12 hours into the main body!!

I will share some experience to try to add something and list my questions second.
I am using esun PLA+ on an ender 3 v2 mostly stock with yellow springs. (the light blue is not a good match for dillon blue, in eSun I think between their light and dark would be better)
it prints amazingly well, it does need the height tuned in very tight and i'm running it at 210 65 with fan down from 255 to 101 and off for the first 5 or so layers. i will try to edit with a photo of my main body for your viewing pleasure. I am also in New Mexico shooting 3 gun basically all my reloading is for that.

Also i had no issues installing java on my MAC and running the generator program, although it saved the pdf to my desktop i just moved it into my BF556 folder. 10.13.6 and current java download im guessing. I did have to give it special permission to trust java and the generator JAR and use some JAR opener software i didn't even know was on my computer.
This is good info since I know many people have said they could not get it to work on a mac.

Lastly I did notice a downgrade in the surface of my bullet feed "ramps" leading away from the pockets due to the infill settings having such a wide gap in them, hopefully a picture shows it started printing the tapered ramps in mid air. it eventually piled up and achieved the desired goal but in the future i'll probably choose a "tighter weave" on the infill to better support the top skin layers. again hopefully i can edit for pics.

1. any old 8mm hex couplers can be made to work right? the linked ones are OOS ATM (out of stock At The Moment)
Yes

2. Can a Buck convertor be reliably used to just lower the input Voltage instead of a PMW which pulses power rapidly on off but at 12v? I am using the cheaper 64j3s motor i have a few buck converters laying around already to just do a steady 3 or 6 or 9 or 11v to get a reasonable speed for each caliber
I would believe so, but have not tried it myself.

3. I thought i saw someone (GWS?) say the mix spring kit listed in the current Zip has 10 or so springs that work on the dropper die is that correct? i'd rather not do a separate order from McMaster carr with their shipping. I'd do will call but who knows when i'll go back to ABQ next.
Looks like this one was answered.

4. I would much rather deal with the mechanics and leverage issues of a cheaper flipper sensor switch and I can use them with other projects like automatic lights in cabinets and my van etc, any issues using those just direct wired inline with the speed controller to interrupt the positive ? I do understand length and weight an position might be an issue but again CHEAP. and I get switches, the other sensors not so much. i plan on 55gr, 75gr, and 124gr maybe some larger also
There are micro switch drop tubes in the project. old school.

Thanks to all the contributors!! and posters here, i'm waiting to here about the latching relay for a quieter reloading room, i'd love to fill the stiff alibaba springs once every 20 boolets instead of every. single. bullet.

I'll probably end up modding my dillon case feeder too with a similar system or replacing it if I buy a bigger 3d printer!
That is exactly what I did. My Mongo collator took the place of the dillon case feeder.

[GWS]

.................................................. .................................................. ............................
I'll probably end up modding my dillon case feeder too with a similar system or replacing it if I buy a bigger 3d printer!

That is exactly what I did. My Mongo collator took the place of the dillon case feeder.

That got my attention and my curiosity up! Why? Didn't the Dillon case collator work well? Or is it lacking something....

[TylerR]

That got my attention and my curiosity up! Why? Didn't the Dillon case collator work well? Or is it lacking something....

Well a few reasons. First the plastic that houses the wiring and such was all cracked, and I had to fix it with glue. worked, but looked ugly. Second, I wanted to be able to do base up brass feeding for bulge busting. Can't do that on the dillon. At the time I though I might use it for bullets too, but that probably wont happen. Mostly, my Mongo just looks way cooler! and I built it, and I can probably sell the dillon for a few bucks.

[M500]

Lastly I did notice a downgrade in the surface of my bullet feed "ramps" leading away from the pockets due to the infill settings having such a wide gap in them, hopefully a picture shows it started printing the tapered ramps in mid air. it eventually piled up and achieved the desired goal but in the future i'll probably choose a "tighter weave" on the infill to better support the top skin layers. again hopefully i can edit for pics.

Are you referring to ramps, ridges, or slides? I had trouble with holes in the first couple top layers around the interior edges of ridges on collator plates, so I looked at settings in cura for a solution. I have since used minimum infill area when printing collator plates. The ridges will now be printed on top of solid layers. As a bonus, the area around the clutch on shorter plates is no longer a problem either. Just preview after slicing to be sure its not doing something stupid.

[ranger391xt]

I like the concept. For sure. I would say it should be changed to the new concept for the reasons mentioned. Less on/off cycles on the speed controller. Its really a longevity of parts question.

I redesigned the layout based on the new schematic. Was also able to reduce the overall size of the board, 36mm wide by 51 mm long. I've ordered a half dozen boards from a prototyping service. Little more expensive (about 5 bucks a board), but didn't want a bunch of them if they don't work.


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[TylerR]

Looks promising, but that would be two pcbs since the speed control I used has one about the same size. Since I took the collator down today to rewire it I took a picture of the rats nest. The only soldering required was the four posts above the blue relay closest in the picture.

As you can see, with the existing pcb and the relay, it's pretty full. So I assume you are thinking TylerR's biggest box? or bigger still? My box that's full already won't handle it, for sure. (pictured below) Now if you could duplicate the speed control pcb only wider to include four holes for the relay, that would be most awesome.

I am guessing the biggest advantaged would be taking the guesswork out of wiring it correctly. I know people still have trouble with it. Here you just connect it according to the pcb and it works. But it definitely will take more room in the box. I would think the large box would work fine.

[TylerR]

I redesigned the layout based on the new schematic. Was also able to reduce the overall size of the board, 36mm wide by 51 mm long. I've ordered a half dozen boards from a prototyping service. Little more expensive (about 5 bucks a board), but didn't want a bunch of them if they don't work.

Nice. Let us know how they turn out.

[rjz5400]

The part that was scaring me was these in the picture, the little tapers comet tails leading away from the bullet pockets. It turned out ok I think it just printed lots of the first layers into open air. I think it all truned out right. We shall see!

In other news 48 hour prints take a long time!!

So many projects have come and left my mind. Since I started this print.

First round of parts ordered!

[rjz5400]

It seems as though the linked switches can either be NO or NC depending on which poles you use. Also a comment on Amazon makes me thing the switch resistance can be changed by opening and cutting or changing springs.

I'm gonna try to figure out how to do the "fill the whole tube and wit for the whole tube to empty" setup by running the 2 switches like a 3 way light switch setup. So when both of them are no actuated they run until the top one gets actuated again. And so on.

[TylerR]

The part that was scaring me was these in the picture, the little tapers comet tails leading away from the bullet pockets. It turned out ok I think it just printed lots of the first layers into open air. I think it all truned out right. We shall see!

That is just the "stepping" based on layer height. If you print at a finer layer height, such as .12mm, that transition will be more gradual. That being said, what you have there will function without issue. I print all my plates at .2mm height.

[TylerR]

It seems as though the linked switches can either be NO or NC depending on which poles you use. Also a comment on Amazon makes me thing the switch resistance can be changed by opening and cutting or changing springs.

I'm gonna try to figure out how to do the "fill the whole tube and wit for the whole tube to empty" setup by running the 2 switches like a 3 way light switch setup. So when both of them are no actuated they run until the top one gets actuated again. And so on.

Good luck. I am still interested in the double switch, fill the tube all at once approach. Just not going to do the R&D myself.

[rjz5400]

i found the top layer to be good enough, it was the earlier pic, where my infill had such large gaps and those features started out looking like they wouldn't "come together" before the top surface. luckily they did. i'll use everything the same but a different pattern next time for the infill in cura