Converting a Lee bottom pour to gas?

[TupariSD]

Is this a feasible task? Cut part of out casing around the bottom without messing up the spout and put a camp stove under it?

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[zymguy]

with enough time and money anything is possible . Why is it you want to do this? if your looking to cast without electricity maybe a ladle is the way to go ?
please take photos
Ben

[Grmps]

The bottom of the PRO 4 20LB is just a piece of tin that helps align the sides. you should be able to cut out the canter and still maintain structural integrity or you could form a bottom ring out of 16 ga steel duplicating the holes off the orriginal bottom

I think you would need to get 1 of the burners off the camp stove and put it directly under the pot.
Probably have to drill/cut "vent holes around the top of the sides to keep the flame off the handle and improve heat transfer
the biggest issue I see is modifying the pour spout to extend below the burner, the flame should keep the spout hot enough to allow for easy lead flow. Maybe press, braze a steel tube around the spout. you'll need to learn to stop the lead flow BEFORE the cavity is full because of the extra lead in the spout extension.

Brainstorming, Use this information at your own risk, Just my 2¢ worth

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

The pot is made of pretty thin steel. shipping weight of a replacement pot liner is 0.75 lbs
https://leeprecision.com/pot-20lb-standard.html

I would think the corrosive nature of a gas flame would make a conversion a waste of time, without solving that issue.

[GunStuff]

Great idea. Now you need to convert your PID controller to modulate the gas or flow or Coleman fuel. Sarcasm! No, don't ruin your Lee pot. Go to the thrift store and buy a stainless pot to do the job.

[lightman]

I would have to say that its not feasible. Sure, if you have enough money and time it could be done. I just don't see the advantage as I've never noticed any increase on my electric bill by casting. Even when 2 buddies are over and I have a hot plate going I've never noticed an increase in my bill.

[TupariSD]

I just takes a lot longer than gas to melt initially. I used to use a camp stove and stainless pan, but using a ladle it's nearly impossible to fill a six cavity

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[gunarea]

Hey TupariSD
Not feasible. Possible, but economics prohibitive. The Lee pot would struggle with concentrated heat at fixed points and higher heat levels would destroy the housing panels. Flame applied at the bottom, would quickly overheat mould/moulds being cast into. Flame heat, even focused, will have a shroud of outflow heat difficult to contain or control. A thermostat and control regulator will be very costly. Cutting into a side, sides or bottom for heat application will give highly inconsistent melt thermodynamics within. Shrouding would need to be extensive for an open flame convective heat transfer. Gas heat temperatures would damage the existing heat coil which is also pot support. Logistics issues aside and best case scenario, natural gas would yield no more than 40% time saving over standard melt time. There are several "Tips" on this site which will help with melt time issues.
On a personal note, melt time will not have a large effect on the mountain of projectiles a six cavity mould can produce. Unless your business is cast slugs, relax and enjoy the hobby.
Roy

[country gent]

Setting on a burner will be in the way of the bottom pours spout. A burner ring could be made from steel tubing with 2-3 wraps around and up the sides of the pot, space about an inch apart. I believe the orifice size is .020 for propane. Drilled on center of tubing and 3/4" spacing would make good heat coverage around the pot. This ring would need an air space around the pot and air flow to stay burning. I believe that it would be easier to build from scratch rather than modify the lee.
By making from scratch the pot could be optimized as to thickness on bottom and sides the air space gap can be set to whats optimum. along with valve desighn, flow, and height. Using the Lee a lot is set and has to be worked around more.

A 6" tube with 1/8" wall 4 -5" long, with a 1/8" flange welded to the top and a 1/4" base plate welded in. a 1/8 wall 8" tube 9-10" long welded to a 1/8 plate base. this will have an opening cut in it 4" wide to bottom of pot. It will leave 1" clearance on a side 10" tube will leave 2" on a side. this allows the needed air flow and burner distance around the pot. The enclosed area under the pot may actually work as a built in mould oven when starting out even with the radiant heat. The burner ring can be made from 14" steel tubing lay out and drill the .020 holes and bend to make the 2-3 wraps away from the pot. It can set against the outer tube and be clamped in place. Plumb into a gas source with regulator and small valves. The top flange rind will need to be segmented so there are opening to allow air flow and heat to flow. 1/8 X 2 1/2 flat stock cut to leave 3 1"- 1 1/2" gaps between them should be good on the top. The 4" wide opening from bottom of pot to base should allow plenty from the bottom. The burner ring will be fun to drill all those .020 holes in though. You will want some form of back burn protection so it can burn back into the tank.

[copdills]

I don't think it would be worth it myself, but I been wrong before just once LOL