Any pet 6.5 Japanese loads?

[oldmanr]

If I did not really like this rifle, This would be frustrating.....especially scince it shoots well with jaceted bullets, Which I was trying to cut the cost of.....( Which does not seem to be working)

[madsenshooter]

People do enlarge their boolit sizing dies, I thought a bit more about it last night and if your bullet is in the right position in the die, there shouldn't be any squeeze past the push rod, except when at rest with pressure on the lube system. One might find a proper size piece of rod to make a proper fitting push rod also. They enlarge their sizing dies by putting a piece of emery cloth in a slot cut into a dowel then spin that with a drill. I understand what you're saying about not cutting costs, but once the initial investment is done with, you will. I've got four of them to feed and the groove diameters vary quite a bit, .264, .267, 2@.268. 2 of them have been rechambered to 6.5x.257 just to add to the cost of things. I've been a long time getting things together that I need, 10+ years of picking up things here and there, so I don't have any tried and true data to share. But someday, I'm going to shoot them, or maybe my grandson will if I get a chance to show him how to use this stuff!

[oldmanr]

Hi,
I went out and did some more shooting.I tried a wide range of loads, starting with the 7grn unique up to 19grn 2400 It looks like that if I keep the velocities waay down the bullet wants to stabilize. 7grn unique put 4 in a 2 in circle with one going keyhole. As I went up in velocity/powder charge,groups rapidly dissappearedI followed the cast with awide range of jacketed weights , 85-140 grn. They all landed in 5in circle at 100 yrds.
OK , the question is how far to go with increasing the mold dia? Is there any where to buy some .267 or .268 dia to test out.
Wher are you getting your loading data?All that I have is from an old lyman book and it has no data on unique

[madsenshooter]

If you post on the bullet exchange I'm sure some kind soul will lend a helping hand. I would, I've got a fat 160gr mold, but I don't have a larger sizer yet. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/forumdisplay.php?f=49 After suggesting to you that you make your mold larger, I took a look at the design, and I've been working on enlarging a mold of my own. All those bands on yours are going to be a pain, and the mold is iron. I'm working with aluminum and the going is slow. That can be good though, keeps you from taking off too much at once.

[frkelly74]

Undersize brass is common in the commercial varieties. Good strong cases can be made from 308 Military brass if you have a way to turned the solid case head portion down to fit your actual chamber.

For this operation I used a lee case trimmer case holder chucked in a drill and a file. First size the 308 case in a 6.5 Jap die as far as you possibly can. It will leave a belt like ridge around the head if the case. Mount the case in the trimmer case holder and spin it and with the file remove the belt. Leave the rim alone , 6.5 Jap is semi rimmed and this should cause no problem. Try each case in the chamber and stop filing when it will chamber. Trim to length , chamfer and load minimum loads to start. Internal capacity will be nothing like original 6.5 Jap. Properly and cautiously done these will not bulge and should last a long time. It worked for me it might or might not work for you.

[gew98]

I used to make my 6,5 brass from 35 Rem cases. Had to use a 7,62x39 sizer to step it down. It's tedious and requires patience , annealing and drilling out the new formed case neck.
I had a beat up type38 carbine when I was a kid and had it bored out and rechambered for 35 Rem . It was one great shooter for a brush gun. I eventually got talked out of it by an older fella we hunted with in NW PA...he fell in love with it.