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Thread: Need Help With Shotmaker

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Need Help With Shotmaker

    OK; I set the Littleton up today and it works, but my shot is flattening out in the coolant. I have the level about 4 inches from the roll plate, and I'm using straight antifreeze from Walmart. Is there a preferred brand? It is clear yellow, and I can see the shot fall to the bottom. I have a 10 quart pail with 2 gallons in it. Everything seems like it should make shot, but I got pancakes. I sprayed the roll plate with Drop Out mold release and the shot is rolling right off instead of sticking like it did with no coating. How do I get round shot?
    If you want your children to follow in your footsteps, be careful where you walk.
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  2. #2
    Boolit Master KYCaster's Avatar
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    Drop to the coolant should be about 1/2 to 3/4 in. That may be your problem.

    Jerry

  3. #3
    Moderator Emeritus JeffinNZ's Avatar
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    I set up my coolant less than 1/2 inch and get great shot. 4 inches WAAAYYY too much.
    Thermal underwear style guru.
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  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    having the bottom of the lip 1/4 off coolent is best. smaller shot can fall more. big shot like # 7 1/2 need 1/4 in. make clean ingots. keep your ingot making 700 or under and flux . i rushed one time, had bad lead it did not make good shot. good luck and geet all the ww you can find. if you know how much you have then you do not have enugh.

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
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    Hey now, that just might work. I had to go to Gander and buy a 50 cal. ammo can and do some phinagling to get the height right, but I actually got some round shot today. I have 1 dripper that just makes big blobs and 1 that has 2 orifices in it making teardrops I need to fix. The one that makes blobs finally plugged it self so that may help. Now all I have to do is sieve the blobs and flat stuff out, and turn that double drilled one so the bad hole is where it won't drip if possible. I may get some shot made by pheasant opener yet. How in hell do you drill 2 holes in 1 dripper? Size is pretty close to what I need. I have to figure out how to clean the holes out; some plugged up and I have to do a teardown. Thanks! CB.
    If you want your children to follow in your footsteps, be careful where you walk.
    Beware the man that only owns one gun; he probably knows how to use it.
    Some things never change; others change more slowly.

  6. #6
    Moderator / Master Tool & Die Maker


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    Crowbeaner:

    You'll have better results if you use "Hydraulic Oil" for a cooling medium, it's a PITA to wash but you'll get better results. As JeffinNZ mentioned, don't let the shot drop more than 1/2", less is best.

    Here's a link to a previous thread, you've probably read it. There's some scanned images of the instruction/operation manual for the Shotmaster Shotmaker, the principle is the same though:

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...ight=shotmaker

    RRR
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  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy chrisx1's Avatar
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    use a torch tip cleaner to clean the small holes in your drippers.

    Chris
    NRA Life Member

    "The Constitution preserves the advantage of being armed that Americans possess over the people of almost every other nation, where the Governments are afraid to trust their people with arms." - James Madison.

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy
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    Well now! Success! I figured out why I'm getting blobs; when I add metal from the Mag 20 it was too hot! I turned it down and if I pour the additional metal to the back of the puddle away from the drippers the blobs all but stop. I had trouble with 1 dripper today; the Drop Out I sprayed on the lip wore out and the blobs returned because the lead was sticking just enough to cause it to make the blob. I gotta break down and get some chalk I guess; maybe I can trade one of the local urchins a candy bar for a couple sticks. I'm getting different sized shot, but that maybe from the alloy I'm using. I got about 80% usable the last run of the day before the boss made me stop. Hot diggity!
    If you want your children to follow in your footsteps, be careful where you walk.
    Beware the man that only owns one gun; he probably knows how to use it.
    Some things never change; others change more slowly.

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy
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    This has been an interesting week. I got it figured out and am making some great shot. I found out that pure antifreeze WILL IGNITE if it gets too hot! I had the level of shot in my 40mm ammo can too close to the top of the can and the hot lead flamed up the antifreeze. I had a few anxious minutes getting everything shut down and the fire out. I've been working on cars for 40 years and have never seen pure antifreeze ignite. Good thing the wife wasn't up yet or she'd have lowered the boom on me. I figured out how fast to feed the shotmaker with cold ingots and the Mag 20 as a slave pot. My last run was 98% good #5 to #6. AAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    If you want your children to follow in your footsteps, be careful where you walk.
    Beware the man that only owns one gun; he probably knows how to use it.
    Some things never change; others change more slowly.

  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy
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    Ok, I'm making some really good looking extra hard shot. Now where do I get some graphite powder for it? Anybody know of a good reliable and affordable source?
    If you want your children to follow in your footsteps, be careful where you walk.
    Beware the man that only owns one gun; he probably knows how to use it.
    Some things never change; others change more slowly.

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy
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    Crowbeaner,

    Don't use chalk. Go to a welding supply store and get soapstone. It comes in round or flat sticks. Get the flat ones. I think my box was $10 and it is a ten year or more supply.

    I got my graphite from John Deere. They use it in planters to lubricate the plates. Please note I did not say it was cheap, but it is a ready source.

    Good luck and good hunting,
    Schutzen

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy
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    Schutzen; thanks a heap! The only graphite I found was little tubes of lock lube at WM. I'm using Drop Out mould release, and it works fine, just a little messy with the overspray. Slicker than snot on a doorknob. I'll have to clean the machine up when I'm done though. I've got about 2 more 50 lb. runs and I've got to find some more metal. I have a couple hundred pounds made so far. I just have to graphite it so it looks like factory stuff. The shotmaking process has been a learning experience at the very least. Ah, well, something about broadening our horizons I think.
    If you want your children to follow in your footsteps, be careful where you walk.
    Beware the man that only owns one gun; he probably knows how to use it.
    Some things never change; others change more slowly.

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy
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    I have the JD part # for the graphite lube; P/N TY26253 at $4.59 per. I didn't get the weight of the package from them though.
    If you want your children to follow in your footsteps, be careful where you walk.
    Beware the man that only owns one gun; he probably knows how to use it.
    Some things never change; others change more slowly.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check