Question... How would you remove a copper clad muzzleloader bullet in a sabot if you had to pull the bullet?
Thank you!
Much Aloha,
Tom
Question... How would you remove a copper clad muzzleloader bullet in a sabot if you had to pull the bullet?
Thank you!
Much Aloha,
Tom
You might try one of the CO2 gizmos for this first. If not one of the screw type pullers should get it, use one that's caliber specific with the alighnment disc above the screw. Maybe make up a rod special for it solid brass or steel 8"-10" longer than the ram rod with a tee handle 4"-6" long this will make turning easier and give a good grip for pulling. If steel is used a piece of heat shrink insulation can be used for a protective cushion.
I'm guessing the problem is that a worm screw on a cleaning-rod would make the bullet turn in the sabot, and not screw itself in tightly enough to pull. Do you want to puil it because you didn't put any powder in? You could probably trickle in enough through the nipple threads to shift it. There are also devices for squirting air, CO2 or grease into the nipple threads, but any of these are likely to involve cost and/or mess.
One possibility would be to get a piece of K&S thin-walled brass tubing, from a model-making shop or eBay. Cut saw teeth on a short piece of it to make a light-duty holesaw, epoxy it to a wooden dowel, and you can cut through the plastic sabot. You even get a good bullet back intact.
What type of rifle is it stuck in?
"We take a thousand moments for granted thinking there will be a thousand more to come. Each day, each breath, each beat of your heart is a gift. Live with love & joy, tomorrow is not promised to anyone......"
unknown
This was on an encore action that had locked up with a LEAD bullet stuck in the barrel... which we were able to remove with a worm/jag... However, the question posed to me last night during the muzzleloading section of our hunter ed class, was... but what if was one copper bullet with a point... and for that, since I typically ONLY use lead, didn't have an answer for... the gun was sent back to Thompson, but it very well might have been unable to send with a primer and a load of powder... and thereby the question...
This was an inline and the breech was locked and unable to be opened as the latch or something had failed.... therefore...
So I'm curious... if that happened with a copper jacketed sabot... how would we attempt to grasp ahold of the bullet without damaging the bore...
Is there powder behind the bullet? If so, that's easy!
When dealing with islam one should always ask themselves: "What would Leonidas do?"
Ah, an inline Encore...
Instructions here
Or send it to the factory
Reduce the issue, ignore the drama
With an air compressor and directing a stream of air into the hole where the nipple is. Make sure you point in a safe direction!!!!! Don't ask me how I know.
Ken
A T/C Encore is an inline muzzle loader. It has an easily removable breech plug assuming that it has not rusted in from neglect. Once the plug is removed, pour out the powder and push the bullet out either end. Many times the breech plugs on these inlines are not properly cleaned and then treated with anti-seize compound or thick grease before being reinstalled. In which case they will resist feeble attempts to unscrew them. A good bench vise and proper wrench with a possible extension may be required. Additionally, a day or two soaking in Kroil or any good penetrating oil will help reduce the amount of effort required to get the plug to turn.
If it is locked up then you cant get to the nipple or breech plug then it has to be removed from the front end. Ballistics in Scotland is correct in that a tube can be made into a face cutter to remove. If you can find tube that fits the bore and id close to bullet dia all that needs to be cut is the nylon sabot. Otherwise the piloted puller may work as is or a long pilot drill may be needed to be made to pilot drill it first. Heating will make the nylon sabot soft and sticky. Make the tube saw with deeper fine teeth and clear chips often.
Build an externally protected centered rod with a .375" 4 flute mill bit on end and shave nose. Exposing lead core and squaring nose for ball remover.
Encore or Pro Hunter I'd take to a gunsmith to have its projectile removed. I wouldn't chance such a removal done by my hand. Because like you Tom I too don't know how to do a correct removal on a inline.
Thank you all... I've actually learned a lot from this thread... and therefore glad that I own a White muzzleloader as an inline...
Much Aloha,
Tom
it is fun to talk about situations before they develop as murphy seems to be around corner at the worst of times! I would do the cutter deal with long rod and go from there. That sabot is a life saver in a situation like this. Any thing but a jacketed bullet jammed in the rifling and only able to get at it from front! But, we would get it out!
Look twice, shoot once.
Had the same question for rifles like a Johnston (ultimate) rifle they have a Breech plug thats not typically owner removed, And many guys shoot things like a Parker ballistic extreme. Theres no way to get a jag into the nose of a bullet like that. a dryball situation could end up in a creative pinch
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |