How I wired a PID to control temperature

[Frozone]

i want one
what was your total cost of all the parts + shipping

I have DIY Kits available for $110 + shipping.

Includes thermocouple, enclosure, controller, SSR, heatsink, LED 3 way warning system, power cord, switch, pot plug receptical, fuse holder and all the hardware you need to assemble it.
I also include instructions on what to do.

All you do is use the included templates to cutout the openings in the enclosure and fit all the parts then just use a screwdriver to wire it up - no crimping, cutting, stripping, or soldering needed.

[Powellcole5490]

Oh good news! I inadvertently bought neon lights not LEDs!

[Powellcole5490]

If I had to do it all over again I would probably purchase your kit. Maybe I'll find another reason to build another controller. I do have one question for you. Since imthe "proud" owner of a PID for a relay output since I bought the wrong one at first, is there anyway to use this controller for anything else? I have the correct PID unit coming on the mail but I wanted to see if there was anything I could do with the wrong one. Thanks for your help!

[Net_Ranger101]

I have DIY Kits available for $110 + shipping.

hmmm Tempting ill get back with you on that one

[Frozone]

... Since im the "proud" owner of a PID for a relay output since I bought the wrong one at first, is there anyway to use this controller for anything else? I have the correct PID unit coming on the mail but I wanted to see if there was anything I could do with the wrong one. Thanks for your help!

Yes, there is no difference between the relay output version and the SSR version. You remove the relay from the board and add 2 resistors and couple of jumper wires and you have the SSR unit.
The SSR version still has the relay outline on its board's silkscreen.

You do any home brewing?? The relay version does very nice as a brew temp controller.
The secret is to use a small (relatively) heater compared to what your heating so it stays on longer. then set the hysteresis high so it will let thing move around a little more than .3 degrees. That way the controller won't thrash on the relay.

[Deerhunter01]

Ok here's my question to u guys. I worked as a test tech./electrician for a custome heat process equipment maker. I could prolly build these with my eyes closed and give u whatever alarm/indicators you want. Is there enough demand here for me to design and build plug and play units for you guys?

[Frozone]

If any need plug and play units I have them available see this thread.
And this one for the results

[Powellcole5490]

I wish I would have seen this before today.... your controllers look REALLY nice!

[Longwood]

I enjoy DIY projects so that's why I chose to take this one on e en though I have very limited electrical experience. So I'm approaching it as a fun project instead of adding up all my costs.

Me 2,,,
I do it for the fun,, hobby or whatever you want to call it.
I do this sort of thing simply because I can.

But,,,

I hate looking up all of the info and parts so I am going to buy a kit from Frozone.
I looks like he helps out with good info if I get stumped or screw something up.

I know how important it is to not let the smoke out of electronic and electrical components, but not a lot on how they work, and how not to do that.
.

[Frozone]

I wish I would have seen this before today.... your controllers look REALLY nice!

Thank You.

And I feel for ya. Owning two $45+ controllers for one project is a bugger.

The other thing most people don't take into account is the 'little things' that you need. The hardware (screws, bolts, wire connectors, ect) add to the cost and can do add up fast.

Radio Shack is famous for not quite having what you need.
They will have the male connector but not the matching female one, so you need to buy an adapter to actually hook things up.
By the time you're done it can add $20+ to a given project.
And then there is marup - RS wanted ~$5 for a blue LED - the same LED I can get elsewhere for $0.11, $0.5 if I buy 10+

[Powellcole5490]

Sounds like you and Deer hunter may be competitors soon! Believe you me, if I find another reason to buy a PID you will be hearing from me for sure.

[Frozone]

Sounds like you and Deer hunter may be competitors soon!........

Maybe, But out of the (I believe 45Nut said) 12000+ members of this forum, I've sold 34 units and have 3 'maybes'.

When you figure in the labor and the inventory cost, I don't make more than a few dollars each on these.

Right now I have parts for about 6 units left.
Plus the 2 controllers that didn't pass burnin, I changed PID suppliers for a reason.
I also have ~ 60 thermocouples in stock that I need to sell on Ebay to make my investment back.

I don't plan on restocking anything, it just isn't worth the effort.

I'll run another group buy this winter - if I get 20+ on the list, I'll reorder.

[kitsap]

When you figure in the labor and the inventory cost, I don't make more than a few dollars each on these.

Quite true. However, it is difficult to put a dollar amount on the good will and improved casting experience from the users.

Comparing a lead pot with a PID temperature controller to one without is like comparing a modern center fire rifle to a muzzle loader.

DougF

[Frozone]

Quite true. However, it is difficult to put a dollar amount on the good will and improved casting experience from the users.

Comparing a lead pot with a PID temperature controller to one without is like comparing a modern center fire rifle to a muzzle loader.

DougF

That was why I did this in the first place.
I don't remember who, but someone wanted a plugnplay,
And there are those who, through no fault of their own, just don't feel comfortable doing it themselves.
I have a son-in-law that no matter what I try, just can't/won't change his own oil in his car. He's not stupid or anything like that (He's works in medicine), He just isn't mechanically inclined any way. has no clue what a wrench does

Oh and I would only apply that "muzzle loader" thing to a LEE pot, the Lyman and RCBS thermostats work quite well. Better with a PID than without but not much better.

[kitsap]

I stand corrected on the comparison. I built my own pot so it did not have a thermostat to begin with.

Thanks,

DougF

[Powellcole5490]

Ok, I want to start off by saying....If ANYONE this thinking of building their first PID controller, I HIGHLY HIGHLY HIGHLY suggest you purchase the DIY kit from Frozone!!! I cannot put enough emphasis on this. I busted my a$$ today working on this project of mine (for those of who don't know, I did not purchase from frozone). I finally got it all wired up and boom awesome! Very pleased with it! It was only after searching postings on cast boolits that I learned I cannot use copper wires to hook up the K TC mount!!! AH!!!!

I'm so frustrated right now. So if you are thinking of buying one, buy from him! He, I'm sure, knows all these "quirks" that I'm learning the hard way. Last thing, I would like to circumvent the Lee temperature control on my pot so I can accidentally turn it low while the PID is controlling it. Is it as easy as popping off the top, disconnecting the wires from the control, and connecting them two together? I don't want to permanently fuse them together in case I upgrade or something down the line and want to pass this pot onto others. Thanks for your help!!! I'm off to try and reconfigure a few things with my PID!

[rsrocket1]

Wow, this is a great thread. I just put my PID system together at a total cost of $0. I had all the stuff in my junk boxes. I used an Omega CN9000 PID, a Crydom D1210 (yes, a little wimpy at only 10A, but it stayed cool), a K-type thermocouple tested at 32F and 212F (ice water and boiling water, <1F error) and a 16g extension cord for the wiring with some crimp-on lugs. I changed the cycle time from the stock setting to 5 seconds, but everything else was unchanged and the Lee 4-20 pot worked great. I set the temperature to 780F because my Lee 6 banger likes it warm and never had to change the spout setting from full to near empty. I could probably get away with a lower setting and may do so with my casting this weekend.

I usually have to adjust the pour setting as the melt draws down as well as the melter's thermostat setting. Not this time even through 3 fill-ups and empties. I've only cast a couple hundred pounds so far, but I should have put this together when I first started casting. This makes casting just that much easier.

Thanks everyone for contributing to this thread.

[40-82 hiker]

This is how I wired my temperature controller:

Items purchased from http://auberins.com/

Universal 1/16 DIN PID Temperature Controller http://auberins.com/index.php?main_p...products_id=90
25 amp SSR (solid state relay) http://auberins.com/index.php?main_p...&products_id=9
Heat sink for SSR (will help maximize the life of the SSR) http://auberins.com/index.php?main_p...products_id=45
K type thermocouple high temperature http://auberins.com/index.php?main_p...products_id=22

Item purchased or supplied locally:

Crimp on wire connectors, spade type
Short heavy duty extension cord – my Lee pot has a 2 conductor plug and is not grounded, so the my wiring does not include a ground as nothing in the wiring needs it.
Small amount of extra wire for jumpers
Terminal wiring block. Mine has 2 rows of 4 screws. Available in the automotive section.

Procedure:
1) Mount terminal block to base
2) Cut extension cord in half. Strip wires and crimp in spade terminals.
3) Attach 2 modified cords to one side of terminal block in order from left to right---
a. Outlet black | outlet white | plug white | plug black
b. This is the inlet/outlet side of the terminal block, the other row is all for internal connections. The Outlet refers to the end of the cord you will plug the casting pot into.
4) Mount SSR to heat sink and mount this assembly to the base. Don't forget to put a dab of the white heatsink grease on the back of the SSR before you attach it.
5) Wire T1 of SSR to screw terminal across from Black Plug Wire
6) Wire L1 of SSR to screw terminal across from Black Outlet wire
7) Install a short jumper wire from screw terminal across from White Outlet Wire to screw terminal across from White plug Wire
8) Mount PID controller to base
9) Run a pair of wires from screws across from White Plug Wire and the Black Plug Wire to PID AC/DC input contacts 1 and 2 on my controller, polarity does NOT matter with AC power
10) Run a wire from PID SSR+ (contact #6) to SSR A1+
11) Run a wire from PID SSR- (contact #7) to SSR A2-
12) Connect the thermocouple to PID TC (contacts 9 and 10)

I wanted to add some pictures but haven't figured out how to do that.

Someone asked this question, but I could not find the answer: how does a 220V Lee pot change this wiring diagram and the parts list?
Thanks

[Uptickk]

This might be a really dumb question but what the heck right?! Is it possible to use a PID with an AC input/output (if they exist) and drop the SSR all together? I am assuming the SSR is used for a reason (maybe to handle the load?) but I am a newbie when it comes to wiring things like this so I could be completely off base.

[6bg6ga]

This might be a really dumb question but what the heck right?! Is it possible to use a PID with an AC input/output (if they exist) and drop the SSR all together? I am assuming the SSR is used for a reason (maybe to handle the load?) but I am a newbie when it comes to wiring things like this so I could be completely off base.

You asked if you could drop the PID SSR all together and yes it is possible. PID's depending on the model and maker can output a voltage of roughly 3-32 volts DC. Now, it is very possible to use this voltage to activate a transistorized relay control circuit with the addition of an additional power supply for the voltage required for a mechanical relay. There is additional cost involved in doing this 1.) power supply for the relay. 2.) A relay that will withstand the amperage requirements of the load it runs. 3.) a relay socket for the relay. 4.) additional wiring.

I've listed everything for adding the relay with the exception of the time to design the control circuit and the wiring time. The Pro's of this is the elimination of the heat from the SS relay and heat sinking the relay. Most people either do not understand electronics enough to do this or are not willing to take the time to do it. Both the SS relay and a good mechanical relay will do the job. The final decision is what do you want to do. I've personally done a mechanical relay in certain control circuits and I've had zero problems. Others may not be able to say this all depending upon skill level of the user.

Now, relays are costly as you increase the load capabilities and therefore some may wish to go the easy way and bolt in a SS Relay. There is no absolute right or wrong way to do it. I happen to have a supply of heavy duty relays in a variety of voltages both AC and DC relays so this is no problem for me. As to the cycle life of a relay... well I do not think you will wear out a relay in your life time and if you do its easily replaceable.
With the mechanical relay instead of the SS relay you will still apply your AC voltage to terminals 1 and 2 if your using a MYPIN PID and your probe will wire up the same as before. Looking at your question again... SS relays are used for the sake of convenience in my opinion. You supply the control voltage from the PID, you supply one side of the load to the SSR. Yes, it is possible to use a 120v AC relay if you are asking this but I tend to use 24volt DC for relay coil voltages, call it a habbit from production control circuit design from years ago. Its easier for someone in the future to understand the what and why of your wiring when you do this and couple color codes wiring into the mix.

I personally do not mind your questions and will do what I can to answer them as there is no dumb question except for the one not asked.