Load DataInline FabricationPBcastcoReloading Everything
RepackboxWidenersLee PrecisionTitan Reloading
RotoMetals2 MidSouth Shooters Supply
Page 5 of 10 FirstFirst 12345678910 LastLast
Results 81 to 100 of 182

Thread: How I wired a PID to control temperature

  1. #81
    Boolit Buddy
    Fredx10sen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Strathmore, Ca.
    Posts
    137
    Quote Originally Posted by Shotgun Luckey View Post
    here is the wiring diagram, I need to use my son's camera to take some pics of the project, my phoe just doesn't cut it
    Hope this works. I cleaned up the diagram Forgot the #1 & #2 Terminals on the PID
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails AutoPotControl Model (3).pdf  
    Last edited by Fredx10sen; 04-19-2011 at 04:09 PM.

  2. #82
    Boolit Buddy Cranium's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Central Florida
    Posts
    158
    Good information here....I was just about to start ordering parts and stumbled across this thread. Auberins.com makes it very easy to get most everything needed to get this going.

    Going to add this to my Lee Pro 4 and put away the digital thermometer I've been using.

  3. #83
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    574
    Quote Originally Posted by coyotebait View Post
    The voltage rating for PID and SSR listed are OK for 220V.
    But with a 220 pot you have two hot wires to deal with not one. How do you wire that up? I would assume it's just a different relay of some sort.

  4. #84
    Banned
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Hagerstown, MD
    Posts
    421
    Well, O.K., I'm convinced now. At first I was skeptical at the reason for building one of these due to my being a hardhead sometimes. You know, getting an old dog to do new tricks etc.. What the h**l, don't have anything better to do & I do love new toys. I found some Universal 1/16 DIN PID controllers on Ebay for really decent prices. Still reasearching.
    O.K. I just ordered my 1/16 DIN PID Controller for $26.99 ppd., My thermocouple for, yes $5.00, & my SSR for $6.50 on, yes, Ebay. It's the same brand names as major suppliers offer. This should be fun!
    Last edited by Pigslayer; 11-24-2011 at 09:50 PM.

  5. #85
    Banned
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Hagerstown, MD
    Posts
    421

    Question 788F Thermocouple O.K.?

    Quote Originally Posted by Shotgun Luckey View Post
    This is how I wired my temperature controller:

    Items purchased from http://auberins.com/

    Universal 1/16 DIN PID Temperature Controller http://auberins.com/index.php?main_p...products_id=90
    25 amp SSR (solid state relay) http://auberins.com/index.php?main_p...&products_id=9
    Heat sink for SSR (will help maximize the life of the SSR) http://auberins.com/index.php?main_p...products_id=45
    K type thermocouple high temperature http://auberins.com/index.php?main_p...products_id=22

    Item purchased or supplied locally:

    Crimp on wire connectors, spade type
    Short heavy duty extension cord – my Lee pot has a 2 conductor plug and is not grounded, so the my wiring does not include a ground as nothing in the wiring needs it.
    Small amount of extra wire for jumpers
    Terminal wiring block. Mine has 2 rows of 4 screws. Available in the automotive section.

    Procedure:
    1) Mount terminal block to base
    2) Cut extension cord in half. Strip wires and crimp in spade terminals.
    3) Attach 2 modified cords to one side of terminal block in order from left to right---
    a. Outlet black | outlet white | plug white | plug black
    b. This is the inlet/outlet side of the terminal block, the other row is all for internal connections. The Outlet refers to the end of the cord you will plug the casting pot into.
    4) Mount SSR to heat sink and mount this assembly to the base. Don't forget to put a dab of the white heatsink grease on the back of the SSR before you attach it.
    5) Wire T1 of SSR to screw terminal across from Black Plug Wire
    6) Wire L1 of SSR to screw terminal across from Black Outlet wire
    7) Install a short jumper wire from screw terminal across from White Outlet Wire to screw terminal across from White plug Wire
    8) Mount PID controller to base
    9) Run a pair of wires from screws across from White Plug Wire and the Black Plug Wire to PID AC/DC input contacts 1 and 2 on my controller, polarity does NOT matter with AC power
    10) Run a wire from PID SSR+ (contact #6) to SSR A1+
    11) Run a wire from PID SSR- (contact #7) to SSR A2-
    12) Connect the thermocouple to PID TC (contacts 9 and 10)

    I wanted to add some pictures but haven't figured out how to do that.
    I picked up a thermocouple with a range of up to 788F. I noticed that you used one with a higher temp capacity. Although I have cast bullets for many years, I never measured the temp. Always went by the appearance of the bullets being cast. From what I've read the temp. should be 625F to 675F. Given that my thermocouple should be satisfactory??

  6. #86
    Boolit Buddy kcinnick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    105
    Does anybody make a plug and play kit for this? Seems like it is a much better option than a thermometer. I am looking to get a Lee Pro 4-20.

  7. #87
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Aurora, CO
    Posts
    90

    Please Help!

    So I'm not an electrician or anything but after reading all the posts on cast boolits, I was inspired to try and do my own PID controller. So I ordered everything and it came to the house last week. I quickly found out I had "fat fingered" a number and instead of getting a PID controller for SSR output I accidentally got a PID controller for Relay output. So I orderned the correct controller this evening. What I just realized is I did not get the "exact" SSR that I ordered. Instead of receiving the white SSR I received the purple/black one (both pictured below) that does not have terminal markings on them such as AL-, AL+, L1, and T1. So can someone tell me if I can hook up the other SSR with the same configuration? Any help would be greatly appriciated!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails RS1A40.jpg   mrSSR.jpg  
    Respectfully,

    Powell

  8. #88
    Boolit Bub kitsap's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Western Washington State
    Posts
    59
    Powell,

    In general the answer to your question is yes with a couple of caveats. The purple/black SSR is rated at 25 amp load and the white SSR is rated at 40 amp load. If your melter requires typical power (800 watts at 115 volts), either SSR will work fine. With the orientation the same as in the side by side photos, the connection terminals are the same.

    DougF

  9. #89
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Aurora, CO
    Posts
    90
    Ok great! Last question. I noticed a lot of people mounting their heatsinks outside the project box. Is this required? I wanted to put everything inside the box so I don't have anything hanging outside. Is this ok? That brings up another question. Currently, my project box is the plastic box from Radio Shak. Is the SSR relay going to get hot enough to melt the plastic? So many questions...so little knowledge....
    Respectfully,

    Powell

  10. #90
    Boolit Bub kitsap's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Western Washington State
    Posts
    59
    Quote Originally Posted by Powellcole5490 View Post
    Ok great! Last question. I noticed a lot of people mounting their heatsinks outside the project box. Is this required? No I wanted to put everything inside the box so I don't have anything hanging outside. Is this ok? Yes That brings up another question. Currently, my project box is the plastic box from Radio Shak. Is the SSR relay going to get hot enough to melt the plastic? Most likely not. Some metal between the back of the SSR and the side of the plastic box would help disperse the heat. Did you receive some thermal compound with the SSR?? What wattage is your melter?? So many questions...so little knowledge....
    Answers in red.

    DougF

  11. #91
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Aurora, CO
    Posts
    90
    I did get thermal compound that I put between the ssr and the heatsink. I don't know the wattage of my melter but I know it's a Lee Pro 4 20 # pot.
    Respectfully,

    Powell

  12. #92
    Boolit Bub kitsap's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Western Washington State
    Posts
    59
    I did not realize you had the heat sink yet you did say so in a previous post. The heat sink sill not get hot enough to melt the plastic. Somewhere in the paperwork or on the side of the melter unit it should state wattage. Most likely 800 watts.

    You should be good to go. Good Luck!

    DougF

  13. #93
    Banned

    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    The Great Land
    Posts
    998
    Quote Originally Posted by Powellcole5490 View Post
    Ok great! Last question. I noticed a lot of people mounting their heatsinks outside the project box. Is this required? I wanted to put everything inside the box so I don't have anything hanging outside. Is this ok? That brings up another question. Currently, my project box is the plastic box from Radio Shak. Is the SSR relay going to get hot enough to melt the plastic? So many questions...so little knowledge....
    The heat IN the SSR is not really a concern.
    While they can get a little warm (on a LEE 4/20 ~ 120º) when the pot first heats up and they run 100% for a while.
    After that the heat produce isn't much.

    BUT you need the hot air produced to go somewhere.
    It's not Just the heat in the SSR/Heatsink that can cause problems.
    Remember the PID controller itself also produces heat and is heat sensitive.

    Add some Vent holes in your enclosure if they are not provided.
    A row or two up at the top to let the hot air out and a few rows in/at the bottom to let cool air in will ensure proper convective ventilation.
    Your controller will be much happier.

  14. #94
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Aurora, CO
    Posts
    90
    Great! Thank you. I will be cutting some vents into my box. I do have a question about switches if anyone out there is smarter than me and can tell me what kind of switch I need (SPDT, DPDT, ect). I want a switch that has three positions on, off, on. So I can give power directly to the pot circumventing the PID and then throw the switch to the other side and power the PID and this the pot. I was told it will extend the life of the PID and/or SSR if I heated the pot up before using the PID/SSR to control the power. Any thoughts?
    Respectfully,

    Powell

  15. #95
    Boolit Bub Net_Ranger101's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    34
    i want one
    what was your total cost of all the parts + shipping
    Who ever appeals to the law against his fellow man is ether a fool or a coward.
    whoever can not take care of himself with out that law is both
    for a wounded man will say to his assailant if i die you are forgiven if i live i will kill you such is the rule of honor!!

  16. #96
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Aurora, CO
    Posts
    90
    Well seeing as though I ordered the wrong PID controller to begin with....my costs are a little high. Ima not sure on the total but if you want to go to the auber's website you can find all the parts. The only things I purchased at radio shack was the box, some wire, a switch (which I may change out), and two LED lights. The switch and the lights are not required though. I enjoy DIY projects so that's why I chose to take this one on e en though I have very limited electrical experience. So I'm approaching it as a fun project instead of adding up all my costs. Sorry I don't have an amount I've spent. It probably would have been cheaper to pay someone else to build it for me but then I would have no idea on how it worked or how to fix it if something went wrong.
    Respectfully,

    Powell

  17. #97
    Banned

    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    The Great Land
    Posts
    998
    Quote Originally Posted by Powellcole5490 View Post
    .......The only things I purchased at radio shack was the box, some wire, a switch (which I may change out), and two LED lights........
    OK, now I'm curious. What are you going to use the 2 LEDs for??
    I think you may be in for a disappointment, but I'll wait until you tell me.

    <edit>
    OH! and you want a DPDT (on,off,on) type that can switch at least 8Amp.
    Here is an example.

    I know why you want that type switch, but it really isn't needed. If the unit fails than just plug the pot into the wall.
    If you forget to switch it the right way, you get a lot of yellow dust on your pot, as the LEE at full power runs in excess of 1200º.
    You will not hurt the SSR by running it to heat the pot to temp.
    Last edited by Frozone; 05-30-2012 at 11:29 PM.

  18. #98
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Aurora, CO
    Posts
    90
    Oh great! Easy enough for the switch. Ok I planned on using the LEDs for the alarm function on the PID. Meaning if the temp was too hot or too cold one of the LEDs would light up. I have a feeling you think that's a dumb idea....at least I still have my receipt so I can take them back.
    Respectfully,

    Powell

  19. #99
    Banned

    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    The Great Land
    Posts
    998
    No, It's not a dumb Idea. I use the same thing on my units; both the units I make for sale and my personal ones.

    Here is the problem - unless you add a DC power supply from some where; All you have available is line AC voltage ( likely 110 maybe 220 ).
    LEDs need only a few volts DC and about 20mA current.
    There is no way to hook them up to 110 AC and not have them explode.

    If you use a stock 'Auber' controller then you want to use 'neon lamps' - Look Here

  20. #100
    Boolit Master



    Springfield's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    San Jose, California
    Posts
    3,684
    My PID has th alarm led's on the front, and I bet yours does too.

Page 5 of 10 FirstFirst 12345678910 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check