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Thread: Dillon swager help

  1. #1
    Boolit Man
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    Dillon swager help

    I recently got a LOT of 30-06 military brass(thanks shotman). I've got it deprimed and cleaned. I bought the dillon swager to help with processing it, but have never used one before.

    I think I have it set-up right (per the instructions). After swaging a piece of brass the swaging marks go about halfway down into the primer pocket.

    Does this sound right?

    Been reloading a while, just not much experience with military brass(yet).

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy billyb's Avatar
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    dillon swager

    try seating a primer to check if you have got it adjusted right. you can get the primer pockets to large with the dillon swage. Bill

  3. #3
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    No_1's Avatar
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    When the brass is crimped it is only on the edge. When you swage the crimp out of it you only move the material at the edge. Try seating a primer (use a old one first) if it goes in try a new one but first things first. Measure the primer pocket with your dial calipers and report back the size. It should measure somewhere around .210.


    Robert
    Last edited by No_1; 07-28-2008 at 03:15 PM. Reason: add diameter
    "The only way to deal with an unfree world is to become so absolutely free that your very existence is an act of rebellion."
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  4. #4
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    garandsrus's Avatar
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    It is easy to swage the brass too much, resulting in a loose primer pocket.

    The best thing to do is to start with a short swage rod and then keep lengthening it as you try to seat a primer. At first, the primer should hang up and now want to seat. After a few tries, you will get to the point that a primer seats "firmly but easily". This is the sweet spot where you want to be.

    John

  5. #5
    Boolit Man
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    Thanks for the help guys. Got it clicking right along now.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    dragonrider's Avatar
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    When I use mine I swage deep enough to get a slight radius at the edge of the pocket, this helps primers to enter the pocket,
    Paul G.
    Once I was young, now I am old and in between went by way to fast.

    The end move in politics is always to pick up a gun.
    -- R. Buckminster Fuller

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy
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    I trim to minimum and uniform the flash holes before swaging to make sure every case is swaged to the same depth. You'd be surprised just how much metal comes out of the case. Even the little .223 cases are done this way. I like to make every effort to have my cases as identical as possible. The amount of excess metal has an effect on the depth of the rod that supports the inside of the primer cup when swaging; especially if the flash hole has a "lid" of brass sticking up where the punch hasn't completely cut the round piece of metal off when the flash hole is made.
    If you want your children to follow in your footsteps, be careful where you walk.
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  8. #8
    Boolit Mold
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    Be Carefull

    My experience with the Dillon Swager is limited to military .45 ACP brass but I will tell you what I know for sure. Be carefull on now deep you swage the primer pocket. If you swage it too deeply the primers may fall out when you chamber and spill powder into it, if you don't swage enough they will extend out of the pocket. My suggestion would be to experiment a bit with a few cases until you get the correct depth. It may be a tedious process but it does work. Good luck

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check