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Thread: Gas seal 12 gauge plastic hull

  1. #1
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    66

    Gas seal 12 gauge plastic hull

    Looking for some good around the house gas seals to load 12 gauge bp shells. I was looking for alternatives to store bought products. Plastic wads work well for me and seal the bore. I use various plastic shot shells. What are you guys using these days?

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

    rancher1913's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    plains of colorado
    Posts
    3,665
    Good question, would like to know this too

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,656
    A lot of bpcr shooters are using LDPA material ( coffee can lids), Napa rubber fiber gasket material, and cork in various thicknesses for wads to protect the bullets base maybe something like this under the felt wads would provide the gas seal. Cut to fit snugly in your hulls it should do what you want. Other wise leather may be punched to fit the hulls and provide a seal

  4. #4
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    66
    I tried that gasket material from the auto parts store and it doesn't seal the bore very well. The bottom of a modern plastic wad flares upon ignition, does corkcompress when fired to seal the bore?

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    353
    I've used old stock factory made over powder wads and filler wads I find at gun shows. Alcan, Federal, Winchester seem to be the most common and they are usually priced to sell fast. If not they are priced like gold,,but then you know the seller hasn't carried them around very long!

    I find plastic wads melt when BP or any of the BP subs I've tried. Same for plastic shot shells leaving strings of melted plastic up and down the bore.
    The one exception to that is the Black Remington 12ga hulls (Game Load or some such name)) Usually sold on the cheap at big box stores and I pick up the emptys around the skeet and SC range for nothing.
    They for some reason don't melt when used with BP or subs. They do singe from the extreme heat of the burn and are useful for only about 3 reloads,,but that's more than I usually get from any paper shells, usually Federal, I could find.

    For reloading on the cheap,, as a teenager I used to cut over powder wads for waxed cartons & packaging using a home-made punch. Nothing more than a piece of tubing of close-enough dia sharpened to punch the discs out of the cardboard.. I loaded two of those over the powder. They were a little(!) oversize but being thin they conformed to the hull easily enough with my wad plunger tool (dowel). Then the wadding was nothing more than a strip of newspaper wadded up and again tightly pushed into place.
    A scoop of shot and a crimp applied with my Lee Loader hammer it together tool and I had my shells.

    I'd rather use the surplus commercial wads now and crimp the shells on my MEC,,but could revert back to the old days if I had too.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    England
    Posts
    1,597
    In the UK Builders use a Concrete Expansion joint Strip.It is a fibrous product and we cut Wads using a rotary cutter.When the Wads are dipped in a mixture of Cooking Oil and mainly Beeswax you have a good seal.I always put a Card wad each side of the own made wad.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check