Last edited by idahoron; 02-11-2017 at 11:47 AM. Reason: adding pictures
That is interesting Ron, i have no rime or reason method, the way i do it is just simply try and push the button from whatever angle i might be at the time, to me that button is STIFF, REALLY STIFF! But the way you show here in these pics makes sense, it would allow leverage that in my opinion could definitely be a big bonus when trying to push and hold this button to make adjustments. I will have to try this!
I am one that shoots with my left eye closed, or Squinted heavily. I use to shoot Competition Trap (How i met Jax) i was at a disadvantage when a bird broke hard left, i had to chase it down, pass the target and shoot. Many of the old timers tried n tried to get me to shoot with both eyes open, i tried and didnt like it! I did fairly well with one eye tho, my best was 98 out of 100 birds, i have a vest patch for running 75 straight, never did break the 100 straight, but i did MANY MANY 25 straights.
Thanks. Yes that clip on mine is missing.
I grabbed my New Englander earlier and tried the push button adjustment the way Ron shows in his pics coupled with one of his YouTube video's 'shooting 160 yard gong', to say it makes a big difference is an understatement! It's fairly easy to push the quick adjust elevator button and make a sight move doing it the way Ron does, in his YouTube video you can see his method well. I hated that button up until now! It actually hurt, and left a dimple in my thumb, i had pretty much given up on messing with it.
FWIW, two standard 1/8" circlips ('E' clips) fit almost perfectly. Sight back to normal.
Ron, i take it that rifle in the pics above is sighted in and that is your 100 yard zero? That looks just like where my First Hotrod Renegade 100 yard Zero was (Peep Bridge Height) This is why i didn't like my 17AML Globe, i got rid of it and went to the AHB, i didnt like having my Peep bridge that high for 100 yards, The elevation loss wasn't a huge deal but it did kinda bother me (The Lyman 57 has a LOT of height adjustment) but the higher my 57s are The bridge starts to feel flimsy to me. That is when i dug up the 17AHB Globe, The AHB is Lyman's Lowest 17Globe at .404, while the AML is .494, With the AHB i am able to get my Peep bridge WAY down lower to the base, which i personally like WAY better! I have the AHB on all of my Rifles, i know you have a custom built wedge shape shim for your 45 Hotrod Hawken which would raise the 57 and counter what i just spoke of. All i do is shim the forward/rear tilt out of mine with little stainless washers (2 or 3 under the front and 1 under the rear) and get the 57 Running true level with my barrel (as close as i can anyway) and thats all i do to mine.
Last edited by 54bore; 02-13-2017 at 06:43 AM.
The -0 on that sight is actually 50 yards. The white lines go up 50 yards after that. That rifle is my Renegade hunter with the single trigger. It is sighted in out to 250 yards.
The Bridge height or Gap between the slider and the base is .300" on that sight at 100 yards. The gap is .240" at 50 yards.
My Hawken has a gap of .218 at 100 yards due to the spacer. The difference between the Renegade no spacer and the Hawken with the spacer is .022 What is the bridge gap between yours at 100 yards?
My sights at 250 to 300 yards are really not that "woogity" have you ever used a vernier tang sight? They lay all the way down and at the shot move forward quite a bit.
There is less play on the 57's on the lower settings. At 50 and 100 yards they don't have much play at all. That play is repeatable. Every time it goes to that spot it is spot on. The sight set at 2300 yards does have a little play to it. The thing to remember is your not carrying the rifle with the sight set at the 300 yard setting. For the most part I carry at the 100 yard setting, or I take it off all together, and only install it when I need to, like when I am riding an ATV or in a truck.
I am curious about your face pressure contact with the stock with that low of a front sight lets say at 50 yards?
My bridge height/Gap between my slider and base is .105, i dont have any issues with face pressure on my stock? It feels natural when the stock hits my shoulder, i dont have to look it's right there for me.
Attachment 188015Attachment 188017
Attachment 188016
A ranged 80 Yards was the last time i shot this rifle, bullets are the Lee 500 S&W 440, my bullets weigh right at 460 Grains, my powder charge is 95 weight grains of Swiss 2F (90 volume) Velocity was 1420 fps over my Chrono. Here is my 5 shot group at 80 yards, 3 in a little clover leaf, and the other 2 close by
Attachment 188023
The 57SML on the little New Englander that you drilled the Tang for is almost bottomed out at 50 Yards, i bet I couldn't get more than a piece of paper between the sight base and slider, to me its perfect! But in the thread that i started on setting up a New Englander with the Lyman 57 Tang Peep and Lyman 17 Globe front sight, i advised going with the AML instead of the AHB. But on the Hawkens and Renegades i swear by the lower AHB
Man that is low. If it works for you that is all that matters.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |