Percussion locks

[RU shooter]

Ok so I'm planning out my next rifle to build ,All I've ever shot and owned have been flinters and I know when them you get what you pay for as cheap locks generally only cause frustration . Been toying with the idea of this next one being a percussion as they are always less expensive for starters than a good flint lock . My question is can a cheaper percussion lock like a cva / Lyman /TC do just a good job as a chambers / L&R ect ? I understand what makes a good flint lock but what's the differences in the percussion locks a big hammer hitting the cap on that nipple should be the same if it's a 60 buck or a 120 buck lock ? Thoughts ?


Tim

[Maven]

For what it's worth Tim, I've owned 3 T/C percussion guns (Cherokee, Hawken, & the .56cal. Renegade SB, which I still use) and 2 Investarms/Lyman's and have never had a problem with the locks. In fact, my Ly. GPR fails to fire only when I dry ball it. Btw, the larger Lyman & T/C locks are almost identical to each other and can be improved by carefully polishing their inner surfaces. The HC/PC crowd derides them mostly because of their coil springs, but those can't be seen, and have been as reliable as my Chambers & Green River Forge flint locks.

[rfd]

what maven typed +1.

percussion locks are very simple affairs as opposed to the complications of a flint lock. as long as the cock's cup face is properly aligned to squarely strike the nipple, that's half the battle for consistent ignition. polishing the lock innards and proper oiling can typically make for faster lock times. lock coil springs are good things, regardless what was used back in the 19th century.

[johnson1942]

ive used a lot of thompson hawken or renagade locks in custom builds ive done. never ever failed me.

[thegatman]

ive used a lot of thompson hawken or renagade locks in custom builds ive done. never ever failed me.

Me too.

[FrontierMuzzleloading]

never had trouble with any percussion lock no matter the brand.

[reivertom]

Just remember that if you want to use a set trigger, you will need a lock with a fly in the tumbler. Some of the CVA (and others) locks don't have them. Basically, you are right......it doesn't take an expensive lock to make a cap go bang, but if I am going to take the time to build a gun, I try to use the best I can afford.

[Omnivore]

Also a coil mainspring takes up less room, and thus it requires less inletting than a flat mainspring. That leaves more wood in the weakest part of the rifle; the area around the lock mortise and breech.

[RU shooter]

Thanks all , that's kinda what I suspected on the matter , gives me something to consider as plan things out a little more . Only issue and I'll call around a few places to check is percussion caps are few and far between in western Pa we have only ever had a flintlock season and in the last few yrs they allowed in lines in an early season I don't even know anyone local that has ever sold caps .

[bedbugbilly]

I built a number of custom rifles in years past. Everyone has they own opinion. If you are just building a "shooter" - then I agree with the above. If you are trying to build an accurate reproduction - then go with the better lock - L & R, etc. If building a rifle and using a stock blank - it matters little if you have to inlet for a tradition flat spring or a coil spring. If you want to use set triggers - you'll need lock with a fly. I have nothing against CVA, TC, etc. but I will say that over the many years that I've been shooting BP - a percussion rifle with a TC or CVA lock and even furniture from those rifles is easy spotted by anyone who has experience. The rifle will look like a "marriage" of parts. But again, that's from a historical point of view. If the rifle is being made as a shooter - then most any percussion lock will make it go bang.


A lot has to do with how much you are willing to spend too. If you are used to flint rifles - and that is all you can use do to laws - but you still want a percussion rifle - then consider making a rifle that can be converted back and forth. Not that hard to do if you use L & R, etc. that have locks with the same plate size. Use a drum and nipple for percussion and then remove it and install a vent liner and slap the flintlock on it. But again - it can get pricey with the cost of the L & R, etc.

Just things to think about when getting parts together. And for what it's worth, I have also owned some CVA and other production rifles - and all shot just fine - which is what it's all about. Years ago, there wasn't much to choose from - I'm talking about years before CVA, TC, etc.. I used a number of original locks and furniture in those days and the best selection was probably from Dixie. I give Turner Kirkland a lot of credit for what he did as far as making parts available and keeping those interested in ML a place to buy BP items and parts. From there it just grew and the selection today is much broader. Years ago, I preferred barrels that Bill Large made. Then after time, I liked the Green Mountain barrels but some of the best little shoots I ever made I used some CVA .45 barrels that I picked up in the sheep sheds at Friendship. I think I gave around $15 to $20 for them - installed a different breech plug in them with a longer tang to fit the style of the rifle. I have no idea who made them but they sure were straight shooters and had nice rifling.

Good luck with you build! Even a flint shooter needs at least one cap gun to play with!

[bigted]

i have only this to say ... my rifles that have the flat spring are almost all smoother in the action then the coil spring rifles. now having said this ... if you take the coil spring locks apart and polish and smooth every friction point then they will be very smooth as well.

now the other point i want to make ... disassembly ... the coil spring locks are a bit of a bugger to disassemble what with needing to grasp the spring rod for disassembly while the flat spring locks only need the spring vice which i carry in my possibles bag for just this purpose. lets say you have dunked it in water by accident ... or ... live here in western Oregon where the rain will creep into everything you have along ... i like the option of complete disassembly for drying and re-oiling every moving part while setting round a good warm fire at the end of the day..

[RU shooter]

Well after about the 5th place I called within a hours drive one had two tins of Rem #11 caps I know cabellas in WVa sells them too but over and hours drive . But there out there . In PA the late season after xmass is flintlock only but the early season is anything that is loaded from the muzzle inline cap lock ect the next step is caliber . Another stupid law we have is that you can't hunt deer with less than 45 cal and you can't hunt small game with anything over 40 cal so have a dual purpose rifle is out

Again thanks for all the input I'm leaning towards a light trim tenn. mtn rifle no matter what the caliber or ignition I choose still have to sort that all out in my head before I start looking for parts and pieces to start

[RU shooter]

Ok got one more question for you guys , I have been talking with a member about a barrel he has for a good price it's an older Spanish made 45 cal that has a snail type percussion breach . Question is can any percussion lock be made to wok with the snail type ? Been looking at locks online and most are cut for drums of different diameters . What will or can be made to work with the snail drum breach ? What should I be looking for new or used ? If anyone has a lock that would work for a fair price I'd be interested in hearing from you .



Tim

[oldracer]

In addition to all that has been said, one thing that is really important and is near impossible to find it the time from when the lock is tripped to when the hammer hits the primer. If I remember in several of the books I read about percussion locks the two main ones are front lock (spring in front) and back lock (spring in back). The back locks seem to be faster firing when the trigger is pulled, at least to me. My Pedersoli Gibbs and a slug gun I made from scratch both have back locks and are super quick. Another was one I got from a board member here with a lock made by a fellow in Denver CO and while a front spring, the half cock is barely off the nipple and full cock is just a tad more. The spring is super stiff and it fires nearly immediately when the trigger is pulled. I can't remember the guys name and I think he is dead now and he also made trigger sets that are like jewels. Maybe someone can help?