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Thread: Too much crimp???

  1. #1
    Boolit Bub
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    Too much crimp???

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    Is this too much crimp?

  2. #2
    Boolit Bub
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    That's about as heavy a crimp as you would ever need.
    What caliber is it? You only need to crimp if you have a special need like a heavy charge of spherical powder or loading for a gun with tubular magazine.

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  3. #3
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    It's plenty heavy, it looks as if you've bottlenecked the case a 16th or so. If I go any further than a simple rolling in on the bullet I back off the crimp.

  4. #4
    Boolit Bub
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    It's for 38 special. The load is 158 grain lswc. The charge is 3 grains of bullseye. I just recently purchased RCBS dies. So I was hoping I did this right. I'm used to loading with a loader.

  5. #5
    Boolit Bub
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    Will this crimp make pressures soar with this load???

  6. #6
    Boolit Bub
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    The bullet is a remington 158 grain lswc by the way.

  7. #7
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    it won't jump the pressures up.
    it might scrape at the boolit though.

    I don't even crimp many of my target loads and some I just taper crimp [yes they make a 38 special taper crimp]
    but a light-firm roll crimp hurts nothing.

  8. #8
    Boolit Bub
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    You can crimp any round you want, some people crimp everything and some others, like me, only crimp when needed.

    Examples of crimp needed:
    1- rounds for a tubular magazines so recoil doesn't push bullets in.
    2- Rounds for a heavy recoiling revolver so recoil doesn' pull bullets out.
    3- loads using certain spherical powders that need the extra pressure to burn more efficiently.

    In your case, your load doesn't need crimping at all.
    Richard

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  9. #9
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    For 38 special my guideline is remove the case flare applied to allow the bullet to fit into the case without scraping. Plus just a tiny amount more so I have a barely noticeable turning in at the top. 45 colt same thing. 357 magnum also.

    With a roll crimp if the case isn't the same length it won't crimp the same amount. Most don't bother to trim length of straight walled brass. For range pickup brass I do trim so they all are the same length, and then I keep them together so the stretch will be same across all of the brass. For new I try to keep brass together.
    Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this source of casting material somehow so we added an "S" to what non casters and wives call what we collect.

    Kind of hard to claim to love America while one is hating half the Americans that disagree with you. One nation indivisible requires work.

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  10. #10
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    I crimp my 38spl, well at least I say I crimp my 38 spl.
    I 'am' using a crimp die, but really I am just removing the "flare" from the case mouth and (ever so slightly) rolling the case mouth into the crimp groove, But I'm not crimping the case into the boolit where lead alloy is being displaced.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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  11. #11
    Boolit Bub
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    Thanks for all the help guys. But with this crimp that I'm doing will it increase pressures enough to damage the gun I'm shooting them out of? The gun is a smith and wesson model 67.

  12. #12
    Boolit Bub
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    Like I said. It's only 3 grains of bullseye. And a 158 grain lswc. Oh and a winchester small pistol primer. I don't want to blow this gun up. I like it very much. And by the way. Leading is not an issue at all. This gun shoots them very well.

  13. #13
    Boolit Bub
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    If you say I don't need to crimp at all. Can I back the seater die which is the crimp die back up. Set the lock ring and just seat the bullet??? It's rcbs set 18212.

  14. #14
    Boolit Bub
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    That's what's strange too. After I remove a case I can get lead and brass slivers off the case if I use a toothpick to scrape it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Overalls87 View Post
    Thanks for all the help guys. But with this crimp that I'm doing will it increase pressures enough to damage the gun I'm shooting them out of? The gun is a smith and wesson model 67.
    you will be fine with the 3gr load.

    Quote Originally Posted by Overalls87 View Post
    If you say I don't need to crimp at all. Can I back the seater die which is the crimp die back up. Set the lock ring and just seat the bullet??? It's rcbs set 18212.
    depending on how much you flare the case?
    You will need to de-flare the case enough for the completed round to chamber.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Overalls87 View Post
    That's what's strange too. After I remove a case I can get lead and brass slivers off the case if I use a toothpick to scrape it.
    remove it from what?
    from the crimp die?
    or from the chamber after it's been fired?
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
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  17. #17
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    probably the case.
    when seating and crimping at the same time a little sliver of lead and sometimes a shave of brass is common.
    if your gonna crimp do it as a separate step.

    but your seeing the reason why most of us don't crimp.

    adding the crimp will not increase your pressures enough to even notice with the load you are using.

  18. #18
    Boolit Bub
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    From the die itself after I complete the loaded round Sir.

  19. #19
    Boolit Bub
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    Should I get a factory crimp die? And just use the 3rd rcbs die for seating the bullet?

  20. #20
    Boolit Grand Master tazman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Overalls87 View Post
    Should I get a factory crimp die? And just use the 3rd rcbs die for seating the bullet?
    The procedure you just described is exactly what I do with mine.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check