Here are spent cases from my 40 S&W Glock 23 Gen 3.
Do you think I need to purchase the Bulge Buster? Should all Glock 40 S&W be processed by the Buster?
Thanks
Sent from my iPad from Yuma AZ using Tapatalk
Here are spent cases from my 40 S&W Glock 23 Gen 3.
Do you think I need to purchase the Bulge Buster? Should all Glock 40 S&W be processed by the Buster?
Thanks
Sent from my iPad from Yuma AZ using Tapatalk
The real way to tell is after sizing. I got one anyway just to run range brass through. I found my Lee sizing dies would not get the bulge at the bottom of the case.
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I use a bulge buster on all my 40 brass. It won't drop into a case gauge without it.
I use the lee buster on all my 40 brass. Spray hornaday one shot on it first. Any brass too hard to push thru gets trashed. I also use aftermarket barrels on my G22 and G35 so brass lasts longer
Just use it. It's cheap and easy and you'll be amazed how much easier it is to run it through the sizing die afterwards.
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My Lone Wolf .40 barrel works fine for me.
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I run them through every time. But they're 10mm and 357 Sig, not 40 S&W. Most of them are pushed through w/ no resistance. But every now and then one will need to be sized. All new to me brass goes through the die. For the minimal cost it's worth it for the peace of mind.
When I first started loading 40 the first gen. Glocks were new, and their brass was much worse than current Glocks. I had a CB member make a push through LEE die to do the job. I still use it for range brass because there are still some of those first gen. guns in use.
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I only use range-pick-up brass in my G22. After de-cap/resize and cleaning I check all my 40 brass by holding the case mouth and inserting the case head end about half way into my Lyman chamber gauge. Any that are tight I bulge-bust and any that have an obvious SMILE I discard. I find that I only have to run about 5% thru the bulge-buster.+1 for Lone Wolf barrels. I have the LW 9MM Conversion barrel for my G22 also. Both barrels are super accurate and both shoot to the same POI.
I only use a bulge buster on Range pick up brass. Post-90's Glocks have better chamber support. So, if that's what your shooting with, or any other "fully-supported" gun or after market barrel , you should only need to resize, if you have full-length resizing die. A bulge buster will bring it "more" into spec but not really improve it functionally. Personally, I've used my bulge buster five times in as many years.
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"If the enemy is in range, so are you." - infantry journal
Yes, I deprime/resize and clean first I only bulge bust those that won't (easily) fit into the chamber gauge and any that have an obvious "smile" I trash. Again I only stick each 40SW case about half way in to the chamber gauge starting with the case head because that's where they bulge.
I'm not worried about my G22 Lone Wolf barrel "glocking" brass but I always have a lot more brass follow me home than I take to the range. I find that I need to bulge bust @ 5% of the range pick-up brass. I never considered it necessary to bulge bust every piece of 40SW brass.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |