I'm using simple green. It's terrible. Or ineffective, at any rate. Any recommendations for a degreaser that won't evaporate quickly? Will sit in a 3 gallon parts washer tank, possibly for months.
I'm using simple green. It's terrible. Or ineffective, at any rate. Any recommendations for a degreaser that won't evaporate quickly? Will sit in a 3 gallon parts washer tank, possibly for months.
Brownell's D'solve.
The ENEMY is listening.
HE wants to know what YOU know.
Keep it to yourself.
The stuff POR-15 sells, their Cleaner/Degreaser formerly called Marine Clean is the most kick ash stuff I have ever used, seriously powerful stuff and its water based. Can't vouch for it in a parts washer but it is used in diluted form. I cleaned some diesel engine prechambers in my ultrasonic with everything I had but they still had a hardened layer of very high heat, baked on diesel carbon in them, nothing would touch it. I tried marine clean, soon as i pressed the start button, black clouds of carbon began wafting out of them. About 20min in the machine, they were absolutely spotless! Mind you that you could hardly scrape this carbon off with a pick before hand, marine clean dissolved it all! I save it for the extra nasty stuff /last resort cleaner but i can count on it to work.
~ Chris
Casting, reloading, shooting, collecting, restoring, smithing, etc, I love it all but most importantly, God, Family, The United States Constitution and Freedom...
God Bless our Troops, Veterans and First Responders!
Diligentia, Vis, Celeritas
Accuracy, Power & Speed
citric acid.
who cares if you gotta toss it with each use,,, it's stupid cheap.
On stupid cheap dish detergent or Lestoil (which doesn't suds up) are both cleaners that cost very little and cut grease and oil very well. And just for grins, a tip: Rub a little bit of dish soap into your hands before working on greasy parts. Fills the pores in the skin with detergent so grease doesn't stick. Hands clean up much easier. Under fingernails you are on your own.
Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this source of casting material somehow so we added an "S" to what non casters and wives call what we collect.
Kind of hard to claim to love America while one is hating half the Americans that disagree with you. One nation indivisible requires work.
Feedback page http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...light=RogerDat
Purple Power, works great, at Wallyworld and parts stores.
Any citric acid cleaner plus I use steaming hot water.
Hi Roger Dat.Here`s a little trick that I learned about 50 years ago from an old mechanic for keeping grease from getting under your fingernails.Just dig the finger nails into a bar of soap before starting work.The embedded soap keeps the grease out.When you wash up after work,or when the job is finished,the hot water dissolves the soap and geewhiz,no crud under your nails.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
People never lie so much as after a hunt,during a war,or before an election.
Otto von Bismarck
here is a curve ball question. I have a gas engine that was neglected and the thing has rusty water flushing out. what can I use that will get the rust residue to come loose?
A citric acid flush usually works pretty good on cruddy cooling systems. I use at least a whole bottle of citric acid powder dissolved in hot water and poured in the cooling system and filled up with water only. Flush with water before doing this too. Then let it run for about 20min after its up to temp. Let it cool and drain and rinse a couple times. Usually does a pretty good job. Mercedes Benz has a citrus flush which is nothing more than citric acid, good enough for them, good enough for everything else.
~ Chris
Casting, reloading, shooting, collecting, restoring, smithing, etc, I love it all but most importantly, God, Family, The United States Constitution and Freedom...
God Bless our Troops, Veterans and First Responders!
Diligentia, Vis, Celeritas
Accuracy, Power & Speed
I need to flush the cooling system of the Cummins motor in my Jeep Project. I never knew it was Citric Acid used. Will be doing this shortly. Engine has sat for several years and I have ran it but with no coolant. All the cooling system is plumbed up now and I was worried that a bunch of rust particles would end up in the new Radiator after I ran it for hours.
I can see how the citric acid would dissolve the rust and should be able to simply drain it off and flush with clear water when done.
Then the Anti Freeze should do it's job a little better.
I still see having to take the radiator out more than once to remove any trash build up from deep in the block. Maybe the citric acid will cut that back a little.
It is a real PITB to remove this radiator.
Randy
"It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
www.buchananprecisionmachine.com
Hi Randy.You might want to look into one of the filters that are used on marine engines that install in the bottom hose.These are very effective at removing crud of all kinds.They are able to be disassembled to empty the sediment and other stuff that it collects.
Good luck.have fun.Be safe.
Leo
People never lie so much as after a hunt,during a war,or before an election.
Otto von Bismarck
I bought into the hype and purchased D'Solve. The stuff is pactically worth less when compared to the above suggestions. Don't waste your money on it.
Randy, I don't think you'll be disappointed, it works pretty darn good! Mighty take a fair bit more for that big cooling system though, 3-4 of the bottles found at the canning isle.
~ Chris
Casting, reloading, shooting, collecting, restoring, smithing, etc, I love it all but most importantly, God, Family, The United States Constitution and Freedom...
God Bless our Troops, Veterans and First Responders!
Diligentia, Vis, Celeritas
Accuracy, Power & Speed
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |