Seating a primer that didn't quite go in

[bullpen7979]

Several times, loading both 9mm and .308, I will on occasion get a primer stuck in the shellplate, and thus, the shell will not come out of the plate.

Last time it happened with the .308 (very little experience loading this cal and was getting used to a new hand priming tool), one got stuck.

I put the shell plate holder along with the case down in my reloading hammer and used a drill press with a 1/4" dia short brass rod to press fit it into place.

Not a very comfortable operation. I have done similar things in the past using various means to apply slow, steady pressure in order not to discard the shell plate.

Can someone share how this is best accomplished? Buying a new shell plate and discarding the assembly perhaps?

Thanks listers, I greatly value this forum. Made my rifle choice based in large part upon the recommendations here.

bull

[Kraschenbirn]

Probably a bit of fouling in the primer pocket. I use a Lee hand-priming tool for all my CF rifle calibers and when that happens to me, I just squeeze a little harder...maybe, use both hands...until the primer bottoms out. Have used this technique for years and haven't had primer 'pop' yet.

Bill

[WebMonkey]

+1 ^^^

[Bzcraig]

Probably a bit of fouling in the primer pocket. I use a Lee hand-priming tool for all my CF rifle calibers and when that happens to me, I just squeeze a little harder...maybe, use both hands...until the primer bottoms out. Have used this technique for years and haven't had primer 'pop' yet.

Bill

Me too......

[HangFireW8]

It would help to tell us what kind of press. Since you say "shell plate" and not "shell holder", I'm assuming some kind of progressive?

I just decap it... after making sure there's no powder around.

After about 25 years of reloading, I finally had a primer pop for the first time this year while decapping... and another while forcing it in a tight primer pocket. No harm was done in either case, other than a feeling of losing a long good luck streak.

[Hick]

I also use a hand primer and squeeze a little harder. I would suggest you take this as a sign to check the set of brass. I keep all my brass in sets by manufacturer, and keep track of the reloads by set. If one seats badly, I go back and clean all primer pockets in that set-- on the theory that maybe I cleaned that batch poorly after its last use.

[runfiverun]

knowing the press would help.
plate I'm thinking means a Dillon or a lee or whatever.
so I'm confused about the hand priming.
anyway if I'm priming off my Dillon, I feel the primer seat then turn the case 90* and press it again to make sure it's firmly in place.

[DougGuy]

Never had one get stuck so bad I couldn't squeeze it a little harder and feel it seat. On the other hand, I am meticulous about cleaning primer pockets. And I don't like priming on the press b/c you can't really feel each primer seat and you can't take the brass out easily and test for flush with your finger. Unless you are priming on a single stage. I like to hand prime but my old guitar playing fingers get worked too hard so I ordered one of the new Lee auto bench prime tools from Midsouth for $25 and some change. I have .308 brass to do and don't want blisters..

[243winxb]

This works even if the pocket is to shallow, out of specification. RCBS Ram Priming Unit.

[44man]

I never put primers in with the press but you might have military brass with crimps. There is a tool to remove the crimp.
I never found a primer hard to seat with my cheap lee seater.

[bedbugbilly]

I use a Lee hand primer as well. The other day, I was priming some 30-30 brass that I had bought that was 1X fired. I always check the primer pockets but I ended up with a couple that didn't seat all the way in. My usual fix is to clear the new primer out of the Lee hand primer and re-set it by squeezing a little harder on it. On the 30-30, I just took them and put them in my Ideal steel 310 tongs and used the primer setting hole/pin to set it in all the way. Of course that doesn't help you if you don't have a set of tongs.

I only use 9mm "range brass" and in a batch I bought, I had a number (don't remember the head stamp) that were really hard to set a primer in . . . and they weren't military brass. I finally just chucked them as they weren't the effort. It drove home the lesson to always check the primer pockets before sliding them in to the hand primer.

Once in a while, with my hand Lee hand primer, I'll get a primer that "flips" for some reason . . . perhaps I get lax in applying thumb pressure on the primer tray near the handle when seating? Then, I end up with a primer that is seated backwards . . . oops! I de-prime on a RCBS Jr3 with a Lee universal de-priming die. If I get one that ends up seated backwards, I just very carefully put it in the press and de-prime it . . never had an issue. Doesn't happen very often but it can.

You say "shell plate" so I'm assuming you are priming on a press? Never done that as my hand primer works for the loading that I do.

[w5pv]

After seeing a persons finger and thumb I quit the hand priming and went to the press for all of my primers.His digits were cut up some but I don't think they required any stiches but I have never had a primer to pop using either method.

[mdi]

I think if this happened to me with a progressive press, I'd just index the offending cse back to the sizing/decapping station and poke the primer out, and find out why shallow primer seating is happening. Never happened to me with a single stage nor turret press...

[waco]

I've had real bad luck with WLRP
I ran a mic on them and they are about 2-3 thou taller than CCI primers.
This make them VERY difficult to seat flush.
I won't be using them again.

[44man]

Been loading for 62 years and never had a primer pop.
My friend did, lost one on the bench and he was soldering something and the torch flame found it for him!

[tja6435]

I think you have crimped primer pockets, it's very common on .308 brass, almost as common as .223/5.56 having crimped primer pockets.

Ive had a large primer pop when a piece of small primer 45 Auto brass snuck in. It was louder than I expected, my ear had ringing for a half a day after.

[popper]

Get the Hornady uniforming tool and uniform all the 308 PP. Every once in a while a hard one will take both hands - keep the case pointed away from you. You might get a cratered primer but they usually go bang anyway - at the range of course. I fired a 12 ga primer once - no powder or shot - yea your as will ring for a while.

[Smk SHoe]

Had a small pistol primer go in my dillion 650. When it went the entire sleeve went. had primers stuck in the ceiling. Dillion replaced everything that was damaged couple days later. Customer service at dillion stated " everything will be replace except for your shorts". first time in over 25 years reloading a primer went. The 650 did exactly what it was suppose to do. Steel tube forced the entire explosion straight up. Damaged a lot of parts, but only the stuff that is easily replaceable. ( no eyes or fingers ).

[GONRA]

GONRA sez if you are using a Progressive Press for Necked Cartridge Cases,
consider doing "case prep" (resizing, primer pocket swaging, MAYBE priming too!)
using an a Big Strong stand-alone-press BEFORE using the Progressive Press.

[RogerDat]

Safety glasses are good, very good. I have set off primers with a Lee wack-a-mole sets. Little noise, little flash, little smoke, wife little pissed.
One of the reasons I like a turret press, I know right away that something is wrong and don't put powder or bullet in so knock em out of push em in because I have gloves and safety glasses. Not that that helps you on a progressive. Something to be said for fully prepped cases.