I just got a lock and load, does anyone have any tips or tricks that may be helpful to me?
Does anyone use lee dies with it? or should I get the hornady dies?
I just got a lock and load, does anyone have any tips or tricks that may be helpful to me?
Does anyone use lee dies with it? or should I get the hornady dies?
I have two and use any kind of dies. Rcbs, lee, Redding, foster
I am new, also to LNL AP, and really enjoy it. If anything is hard to move, stop and find out what is binding, or you will be calling Hornady for parts. I moved from a Lee 1000, to this, and am very please, so far.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-qC1O5FzSCA
Watch that video series! He covers almost every problem you can experience and the solutions. Was invaluable to me getting mine set up and runs like a champ now. I bought the hornady specifically because I could reuse all my lee dies I already purchased in it. Buy some extra primer tubs and those lnl bushings and you'll be up and running in no time.
I kept my classic turret for using resize dies and occasional small runs of test batches. once I got the routine worked out for the LnL it is much faster than when I started. Took a few days of learning curve though. I'm reusing all my lee equipment in it right now, including the auto disk powder drop.
Air hose is your friend , keep it clean and you will enjoy your loading time. I learned that with the projector and still true with lnl
Thanks for all the replies, I appreciate it!
If you are going to prime on the LnL, keep the slot for the shuttle clean with compressed air...pay close attention to the finished rounds, look at each one and give them a finger swipe to make sure the primers are 'at least flush'...no matter what, do not try to seat an exposed primer further after the round is assembled. Maybe you don't need telling this but maybe you do.
There is a lot to be said about de-priming and cleaning, then pre-priming before the brass hits the LnL. Many will say different but they are always pressed for time to get maximum output, minimum input.
Decide going in...do you want lots of good rounds or, lots of good enough rounds...your long range habits are forming right now.
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since I used fine grit 1000 sandpaper and smoothed out the primer shuttle mine has been running flawlessly OS OK. I ain't in a hurry, but it's been working for for me :shrug:
I do use a can of air to blast out and debris every other time I refilled the primer tube.
Speaking of LNL WHAT are you guys using for grease? I can't remember what I use but I when I grease it the first hundred or two strokes seem tougher then normal....sorry if I hijacked your thread op
My LNL seats primers no less that .003".
I don't have an LNL, but I do have an XL650 and I use 30 weight motor oil on my ram and regular automotive grease in the zirk fittings. A light smear of grease on the primer cam and the case feed cam and the indexing cam. And an air hose does work nicely. I would use dry graphite where your primer slide glides ( rubbing the surface with a pencil lead is easiest and less messy).
Just a heads up to anyone that doesn't reload next to a compressor, Colman makes a great little unit that blows up portable mattresses, that does an outstanding job of blowing out your press after using it. You can get ones' that use batteries or plugs in. You might already own one, if you have a blowup mattress.
i have used a lnl fer several years now fer grease i just use a good lithium based gun grease. do watch that you tube series recommended above. use a fine arkansas stone to hone the primer slide smooth and hone a small radius on the bottom of the nose. don't forget to hone the primer slide slot.run the stone over the base also.keep the primer seater punch CLEAN and lubed. that series of videos will take you thru ever thing you will need to know. including ttiming your press.keep it clean keep it lubed and keep it timed and tuned and the darn thing just works!! if i can help any one in any way just pm me.
Put a lock washer under the shellplate screw.
Don't force it.
Adjust the drive pawls one at a time, in very small increments, you should not need to adjust them often after an initial break-in.
The only times mine has had issues from a lack of cleanliness has been when I messed up and dumped a case worth of powder on it.
I just bought one of these a while back and love the thing. Mine did have the dreaded "snapping shellplate" indexing problem. But a quick search on the problem provided me with the fix. It indexes like glass now, no powder flying out of my 9mm rounds now.
http://www.m4carbine.net/showthread....gressive-press
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |