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Thread: New lock and load ap

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
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    New lock and load ap

    I just got a lock and load, does anyone have any tips or tricks that may be helpful to me?

    Does anyone use lee dies with it? or should I get the hornady dies?

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

    dannyd's Avatar
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    I have two and use any kind of dies. Rcbs, lee, Redding, foster

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
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    I am new, also to LNL AP, and really enjoy it. If anything is hard to move, stop and find out what is binding, or you will be calling Hornady for parts. I moved from a Lee 1000, to this, and am very please, so far.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    DerekP Houston's Avatar
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    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-qC1O5FzSCA

    Watch that video series! He covers almost every problem you can experience and the solutions. Was invaluable to me getting mine set up and runs like a champ now. I bought the hornady specifically because I could reuse all my lee dies I already purchased in it. Buy some extra primer tubs and those lnl bushings and you'll be up and running in no time.

  5. #5
    Boolit Mold
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wis. Tom View Post
    I am new, also to LNL AP, and really enjoy it. If anything is hard to move, stop and find out what is binding, or you will be calling Hornady for parts. I moved from a Lee 1000, to this, and am very please, so far.
    I also am moving from a lee pro 1000 and classic turret and once get used to using the lnl I will be selling them both off and using this as my main press and keeping my rcbs as a decapper only

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    DerekP Houston's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muk View Post
    I also am moving from a lee pro 1000 and classic turret and once get used to using the lnl I will be selling them both off and using this as my main press and keeping my rcbs as a decapper only
    I kept my classic turret for using resize dies and occasional small runs of test batches. once I got the routine worked out for the LnL it is much faster than when I started. Took a few days of learning curve though. I'm reusing all my lee equipment in it right now, including the auto disk powder drop.

  7. #7
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    Preacher Jim's Avatar
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    Air hose is your friend , keep it clean and you will enjoy your loading time. I learned that with the projector and still true with lnl

  8. #8
    Boolit Mold
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    Thanks for all the replies, I appreciate it!

  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master OS OK's Avatar
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    If you are going to prime on the LnL, keep the slot for the shuttle clean with compressed air...pay close attention to the finished rounds, look at each one and give them a finger swipe to make sure the primers are 'at least flush'...no matter what, do not try to seat an exposed primer further after the round is assembled. Maybe you don't need telling this but maybe you do.
    There is a lot to be said about de-priming and cleaning, then pre-priming before the brass hits the LnL. Many will say different but they are always pressed for time to get maximum output, minimum input.
    Decide going in...do you want lots of good rounds or, lots of good enough rounds...your long range habits are forming right now.
    a m e r i c a n p r a v d a

    Be a Patriot . . . expose their lies!

    “In a time of deceit, telling the truth is a revolutionary act.” G. Orwell

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
    DerekP Houston's Avatar
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    since I used fine grit 1000 sandpaper and smoothed out the primer shuttle mine has been running flawlessly OS OK. I ain't in a hurry, but it's been working for for me :shrug:

    I do use a can of air to blast out and debris every other time I refilled the primer tube.

  11. #11
    Boolit Mold
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    Quote Originally Posted by OS OK View Post
    If you are going to prime on the LnL, keep the slot for the shuttle clean with compressed air...pay close attention to the finished rounds, look at each one and give them a finger swipe to make sure the primers are 'at least flush'...no matter what, do not try to seat an exposed primer further after the round is assembled. Maybe you don't need telling this but maybe you do.
    There is a lot to be said about de-priming and cleaning, then pre-priming before the brass hits the LnL. Many will say different but they are always pressed for time to get maximum output, minimum input.
    Decide going in...do you want lots of good rounds or, lots of good enough rounds...your long range habits are forming right now.
    I do know better but it is best practice to not assume I do, especially since you don't know me or my experience level, and with rifle it is none! That is the reason I am here so I can learn how to do rifle rounds safely and properly.

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy


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    Speaking of LNL WHAT are you guys using for grease? I can't remember what I use but I when I grease it the first hundred or two strokes seem tougher then normal....sorry if I hijacked your thread op

  13. #13
    Boolit Mold
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    Quote Originally Posted by guywitha3006 View Post
    Speaking of LNL WHAT are you guys using for grease? I can't remember what I use but I when I grease it the first hundred or two strokes seem tougher then normal....sorry if I hijacked your thread op
    No worries it would a good tip to know what grease would be recommended.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
    DerekP Houston's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by guywitha3006 View Post
    Speaking of LNL WHAT are you guys using for grease? I can't remember what I use but I when I grease it the first hundred or two strokes seem tougher then normal....sorry if I hijacked your thread op
    i believe i used a dab of frog lube paste...it was sitting on my bench anyways. Just a light dab did it for me. I haven't changed my shell plate though since I got 38's locked in.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    My LNL seats primers no less that .003".

  16. #16
    Boolit Master VHoward's Avatar
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    I don't have an LNL, but I do have an XL650 and I use 30 weight motor oil on my ram and regular automotive grease in the zirk fittings. A light smear of grease on the primer cam and the case feed cam and the indexing cam. And an air hose does work nicely. I would use dry graphite where your primer slide glides ( rubbing the surface with a pencil lead is easiest and less messy).

  17. #17
    Boolit Buddy
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    Just a heads up to anyone that doesn't reload next to a compressor, Colman makes a great little unit that blows up portable mattresses, that does an outstanding job of blowing out your press after using it. You can get ones' that use batteries or plugs in. You might already own one, if you have a blowup mattress.

  18. #18
    Boolit Bub
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    i have used a lnl fer several years now fer grease i just use a good lithium based gun grease. do watch that you tube series recommended above. use a fine arkansas stone to hone the primer slide smooth and hone a small radius on the bottom of the nose. don't forget to hone the primer slide slot.run the stone over the base also.keep the primer seater punch CLEAN and lubed. that series of videos will take you thru ever thing you will need to know. including ttiming your press.keep it clean keep it lubed and keep it timed and tuned and the darn thing just works!! if i can help any one in any way just pm me.

  19. #19
    Boolit Buddy
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    Put a lock washer under the shellplate screw.
    Don't force it.
    Adjust the drive pawls one at a time, in very small increments, you should not need to adjust them often after an initial break-in.
    The only times mine has had issues from a lack of cleanliness has been when I messed up and dumped a case worth of powder on it.

  20. #20
    Boolit Buddy
    cutter_spc's Avatar
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    I just bought one of these a while back and love the thing. Mine did have the dreaded "snapping shellplate" indexing problem. But a quick search on the problem provided me with the fix. It indexes like glass now, no powder flying out of my 9mm rounds now.

    http://www.m4carbine.net/showthread....gressive-press

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check