Rifle Case Annealer from estabilished company?

[DonMountain]

I have been reloading rifle cases for a bunch of years, and at times think I need to anneal the cases. I have followed threads where annealing is recommended, especially for conversions of brass. So I started looking for a case annealer from an established reloading tool company like Hornady, RCBS, Lyman, Forester, Sinclair, and etc., but to no avail. So, what is the story here? The only annealers I see for sale look like one-offs from some amateurs. Or home-built ones. Or custom made ones that are extremely expensive. Why don't the estabilished reloading tool companies produce them?

[M-Tecs]

Annealers are a small market item. My guess is the big companies don't believe the profits verse development and advertising are worth the effort.

[spfd1903]

I looked at the variety of annealing units for a long time also. Finally settled on a set up that is easy and does not break the bank. Check out www.cartridgeanneal.com.

[dragon813gt]

The BenchSource unit is about as close as you're going to get. It's the standard that others are judged against. Annealers are a low volume niche tool which is why the big companies don't make them. They obviously see no profit in it.

The good thing is that there a bunch of affordable units now on the market. You have to pick which one has the features you want. There are advantages and disadvantages to each style offered. I bought an Annealeez because it does everything I want it w/in the budget I had.

[Doc Highwall]

I have two annealing machines. For a unit that uses a torch and tempilaq paint,the Bench Source machine is the best. However with newer technologies better methods also are devised, and now the latest and greatest is induction annealing, and that is made by Annealing Made Perfect, and that is what I am using now. Here is an link to both of them.

http://bench-source.com/id81.html

http://www.ampannealing.com/

Do yourself a favor, and really look over the data that is shown on the Annealing Made Perfect web site, and I think you can appreciate the research that they did. It convinced me and I bought one.

[John Boy]

http://www.annealingmachines.com/

[DonMountain]

I looked at the variety of annealing units for a long time also. Finally settled on a set up that is easy and does not break the bank. Check out www.cartridgeanneal.com.

This looks like something I could build myself and use for the little bit of annealing I need to do. A little bit of work in my woodshop for the support brackets and a piece of tubing to hold the brass cartridge cases might be just the thing. But I might have to go to the machine shop supplier to get a bottle of the Tempilaq in the 750 degree range.

[sparky45]

One of the members here has a small business that produces fantastic Annealers. Magic Mike is the member and his website is : www.mikesreloadingbench.com . You won't be disappointed in quality, workmanship, style or availability. Also the price point is excellent for an annealer that will do most all brass without having to buy extra kits such as with the annealeez.

[salpal48]

At one time The only Loading Company who Built One was early Frankford Arsenal. I saw One and It worked well . Price @ the Time several Years ago. was somewhat good appox $150. was on the market for a year or so. . Did not sell. and stopped making. . I have a sage brush annealer. simple and fast . . to me the simpler the better. I know people have Other . . They all work good with 223, 308, 30/06 ( rimless cases) If you shoot a wide selection of Cartridges Large Or small and Rimmed. Some will not work well. I got The sagebrush because it is just a Turntable with simple minor adjustments.
But that was my Choice.

[Preacher Jim]

I bought one from Mike and it works flawless I ran 400 cases so far no malfunctions

[Pee Wee]

http://annealeez.ddns.net/Default.aspx


This is the One that I bought $275.00 Delivered, It will do most all cases, $25.00 for the 300acc blackout kit.
so $300.00 will do all.
I love it.

[Rickshaw]

Looks like Mike will get my hard earned dollars.

After further review and since the Annealeez comes with the torch and hose........Annealeez will be the one!!!!!!

[Retumbo]

Easy enough to build yourself

[LUCKYDAWG13]

I'm working on this one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k0xE-6bSwME
PARTS LIST BELOW:

If you found this video useful, then please subscribe, SHARE, and like video

Final specs, PART PURCHASES, measurements, and overall construction of YOUR annealer is 100% up to you. Take this info as you want. I'm only showing you how I made my annealer and what I purchased! Always use the utmost safety when using an annealer and reloading!! Always unplug unit when not in use!

Double check YOUR purchases!! I'm NOT responsible for your final purchases!!!!!!!!!!

I would try to get all parts shipped from the USA!:

CASE: http://www.mouser.co...ductDetail/H...

CASE DATA SHEET!: http://www.mouser.co...2/177/1456KH...

POWER: http://www.ebay.com/...2V-2A-2000mA...

POWER ADAPTER: http://www.ebay.com/...C-power-sock...

SHAFT ADAPTER: http://www.ebay.com/...EW-Great-Pla...

MOTOR (note from china allow 3weeks): http://www.ebay.com/...igh-Torque-1...

DRUM (verify depth you want! watch video!): http://www.ebay.com/...at-Daddios-A...

SPEED CONTROL: http://www.ebay.com/...C-6-30V-12V-...

METAL PAN FOR CATCHING BRASS: got from $1 store local, for $1

RAMP: cut out of 2"x2" aluminum stock purchased local, don't forget 2bolts, 4nuts, and get about 8 washers to adjust ramp as needed mentioned in video

Don't forget to get an extra washer for the shaft adapter nut.Take adapter with you local hardware store and find washer as needed.

BRASS STOPPER: 1@ 1/4" x 2-1/2"wide x ~4"long u-bolt.. don't forget 2extra LOCK style nuts that fits this u-bolt as described in video (watch video!)

about 2' of low voltage wire

motor mount bolts, washers, and nuts as mentioned in video... take motor with you to local hardware store and use bolts that damn near slide in the holes of the 3 motor arms... you need to drill the holes in the 3 arms JUST A TAD BIT BIGGER for the bolts to slide thru!!.. (watch video!) 3@ front side washers, 3 @ rear side washers, 3 @ bolts, 3 @ 3/4" standoff nuts, and 6 @ nuts

IF MOTOR PROTRUDES out back of case, get a low profile plastic electrical box as in video with 4 bolts and 4nuts.. cut rectangular hole in back of case as needed for motor to clear back of case.. i'm sure you can figure this out or give me your man card JK

get LP tank at local hardware store, go to u-bolts, match up bolt to LP tank as in video, buy 2 extra nuts that fit this u-bolt, and if they have rubber feet that slide over as in video = awesome! watch video for clear detail!!

possible silicone for back side speed control display if not snug in hole you cut

other things to make life easy: dremel tool, clamp for dremel as in video, hacksaw for ramp and take off blade to finish rectangular cut of speed control display

take on/off switch with you to local store and match up drill bit for size.. NOT TOO BIG! NOT TOO SMALL! needs to be perfect!

match up drill bit for speed control knob hole

match up drill bit for power adapter in back of case

3/4 hole for prop adapter... i just destroyed a 3/4" spade bit to make the hole

SMALL PILOT HOLES, PILOT HOLES, PILOT HOLES before you drill any LARGE HOLES such as the holes for shaft/drum adapter, on/off button, speed control, ramp bolts, brass stopper bolt, blah blah blah

other things: pencil style solder iron, solder, electrical tape, means of stripping wire, cutting wire, LP tanks as in video, pencil style torch as in video

[Hueyville]

Followed the links and for the money magicmike's and the annealeez machines looked like a lot of machine for the money. Have two homebrew machines that would not have spent the time building if had seen something like either of these at the time. These are more inexpensive than the store bought machines were 20 to 25 years ago but all were more for commercial use or super high volume. I occasionally have to anneal 1,000 to 2,000 rifle cases and my machines are slow and clunky. Now to decide between the two. A hundred dollar bill is the difference in price, without playing the "he is my buddy" game is magicmike's machine $100 better than the annealeez?

When annealing cases for significant forming processes where a lot of violent operations are going to be done or want to be very specific controlling how much of the case is heated I use a baking sheet with cases sitting in water to control how far the heat goes. Often just want to soften the neck or neck and shoulder without softening case wall and will adjust depth of water and do by hand. If just need to do 50 to 100 cases for a project the baking pan, propane torch and non contact infrared thermometer to keep temperatures consistent works just fine. Have about 10,000 Berdan primed 7.62×51 NATO cases that absolutely need annealing before loading. Have been sitting almost two years as have not wanted to babysit my Frankenstein machine through that many cases. Hit a big deal on Berdan primers and need to get them filled so powder inventory can be increased. Funny how your only allowed 50 pounds of powder legally but once it goes into cases it no longer goes against your weight limit. Only have four locations to store powder and math says if an executive action doubled the price of components or banned them then only have enough to shoot at current rate for 10 to 13 years and if ration myself to half normal range time will be out of the game completely by age 75.