forming .25-20 brass

[buggybuilder]

Is there a big trick to form .32-20 brass to .25-20? Can I just run it thru my .32 sizing die or do I need a trim die?
Will I need to ream the case necks after forming?

[GRUMPA]

I do thousands a year of those, I've tried this and that. There isn't what I'd call an easy way, takes me 5 forming stations to do those. What's hard is those super thin necks, they don't have a forgiving quality, they buckle real easy.

[John Boy]

Buy the loaded rounds ... https://www.ammonow.com/rifle_.25-20...er_page_1.html

[sharps4590]

I need some 25-20 brass also but not at those prices!!!

[Mk42gunner]

I formed some Remington .32-20 into .25-20 a few years ago. If I need more cases for my single shot rifle, I plan to buy them already formed from GRUMPA.

Its not that it is hard to do, there is just an unacceptably high rate of case loss when doing it with only a set of .25-20 dies. I did use the seating die as an intermediate die, but I obviously missed straightening the necks on a few cases. Most of my losses were due to wrinkles in the neck.

Robert

[John Boy]

25-20 SAMMI case length 1.330 in
Grumpa's reformed - 1.305 in from 32-20's SAMMI Case length 1.315 in

[fordwannabe]

I use Grumpa's stuff. My 1892 and my Marlin model 27 both shoot it fine. Tom

[Boolseye]

Grumpa for your 25-20 brass

[upnorthwis]

Would be best to use an intermediate die. I used a .270 REN and only lost three out of a hundred. They will need trimming.

[blltsmth]

Really no big trick to it! Buy 32-20 brass from Star Line. Anneal necks in a darkened room until dull red. Use swage lube on cases sparingly so they will not stick while running them into your 25-20 F/L die with the stem removed. Will loose just a few per hundred, but easiest, simplest method I do. Have done about 10,000 of these locally.

[Jeff Michel]

Redding 25-20 form die, Redding extended shell holder, imperial sizing wax and a FL 25-20 sizing die with the stem removed. Use a standard shell holder with the FL die. Use in the order stated. Your scrap rate will be close to zero. I don't bother to anneal but it certainly won't hurt either.

[Eutectic]

You will get a much better, more uniform finished case if you take the neck down to 27 or 28 caliber as the first step.... You also will keep those 'few you loose' out of a hundred. Anneal just before final size not first, to prevent any longitudinal set back and a shorter case.

Eutectic

[Chill Wills]

I would mention - through actual experience with the Starline cases - starting with sized (32-20) and annealed cases is a game changer.

With other brands of case, which are really not as available, annealing may not be needed to start, I do not know. Starline 32-20 cases are as hard as woodpecker lips. Working them by reforming them hardens them again. You may want to re-anneal them. I have not so far and have had unlimited case life to date and many loadings. We will see after more firings.
Do as your experience dictates.

Starting with annealed cases my loss rate went down to almost nothing. BTW- For me - Sizing down produces plenty long 25-20 cases. Your outcomes may vary.

[Fast Asleep]

I have not been successful with simply running my Starline 32-20 cases into the 25-20 FL sizing die. What has worked best is two initial steps--first into a .22 hornet or .270 Ren sizing die to push a shoulder down to the correct location. Then into the 25-20 seating die. Finally into the 25-20 FL die.

[Chill Wills]

I have not been successful with simply running my Starline 32-20 cases into the 25-20 FL sizing die. What has worked best is two initial steps--first into a .22 hornet or .270 Ren sizing die to push a shoulder down to the correct location. Then into the 25-20 seating die. Finally into the 25-20 FL die.

Sounds like there are a lot of correct ways to do it. Like you I had way too much failure just putting a lubed 32-20 Starline case in the FL 25-20 die.

I settled on sizing all cases in the 32-20 die (if you have one) before doing anything because any imperfection coming from the box will cause the case to fail.
Then anneal to blue - turquoise.
Then size in the 25-20 seater die using the up-down feel method. This is fast but uses about 4 or 6 shorts bumps to get the case full into the die and heads off any case failure if you use "feel" as you go. You can even relube (re- distribute the lube) the case in the holder with your lubed finger while doing the bump sizing.
Then go back and FL all cases.

Sounds labor intensive but goes fast once you get the hang of it. Very few cases lost. .............Anneal! It pays.

[Greg]

A Big Thank You !

to Grumpa...
got my formed 25-20 brass with today's mail
it looks great, will get busy loading today.

Thanks Grumpa !

[GRUMPA]

Uhmmmm Greg......something like that should go in my thread for the 25-20 which is in my VS page.

Just click the link in my signature which takes you to the VS page, then click the 25-20 thread....

[MEB]

Won't work with my Lee 25-20 FL sizing die, it has a pressure relief hole in the middle of the shoulder and when the mouth of the case hits it, it puts a crease in the neck.

[EDG]

I have had Herter's dies like that and I had to polish the vent hole area a lot with a lathe to get rid of the sharp edges.

Won't work with my Lee 25-20 FL sizing die, it has a pressure relief hole in the middle of the shoulder and when the mouth of the case hits it, it puts a crease in the neck.

[oger]

Just picked up a 92 Win in 25-20 with a mint bore. I have some Rem 25-20 fac ammo that chambers perfectly but when I try to reform 32-20 there is a problem. The Rem brass is .346 at the base above the rim and the Win and Starline 32-20 brass is right at .355 and will not chamber when sized to 25-20 I have no way of sizing all the way to the rim and really don't want to get the chamber cut. Any ideas?