More problems with bullet sizer

[azrednek]

Using a RCBS sizer, a Midway brand heater using Jakes Ceresin scarlet bullet lube. Package says lube needs to be heated to 120F. I didn't test the heat with a thermometer but got it warm enough to where it flowed out thin enough to fill the grooves but not so hot it that the lube thinned out and caused problems with extracting I mentioned in yesterday's post.

The problem now is with what I believe is called the piston. The entire piston rotates along with the threaded rod and does not want to go down and push the lube. It got progressively worse. Last night I just tweaked the rod slightly and bumped a little lube into the grooves. Today the more I used it, the more I had to move it. Finally the piston was not moving down at all. Assuming the problem was likely O-rings I ran to the hardware store and got another pair. The O-rings didn't help, so back to the hardware store I got the next size up. Thought I licked the problem as the over size O-rings really fit snug but after moving the piston down an inch or so the piston started rotating again and wouldn't go down unless I pressed a screw driver on top of the piston and rotated the rod. It finally got to the point I couldn't press the screw driver down hard enough on top of the piston and it continued to rotate with the threaded rod. Turning it backwards, not a problem the piston doesn't rotate and comes right up. I tried it again with both the original O-rings, the first new replacements and back to the over sized and just can't get the piston not to rotate when threaded downward. Believing I might have a burr on the rod, I used a torch, melted out all the lube and after it cooled the piston moved up and down without any problems as long as the reservoir was empty.

Thanks again in advance for any suggestions as this problem really has me stymied.

[HeavyMetal]

If you have the Lube out of the sizer unscrew the piston asymbly and see if the area where it stops working looks like it's stripped. You could also be at that point where the travel stops and you need to refill your sizer.

With this type sizer the rod is attached at the bottom of the press, at least it was in my Lyman, and any number of things could be wrong.

Without pic's it's tough to tell what the issue is. Check the two things I mentioned, if you don't spot a problem add this info to your question and someone will have an answer for you.

[Calamity Jake]

Like heavy says you could be at the bottom of the threaded rod and need to add more lube.

You could also be getting the lube to hot causing it to squeeze past the O ring a little making it slick then when you try to adjust for more pressure the piston turns with the rod. Also take the rod out and clean it then check for burrs or rough threads in the areas where it sticks.

Try turning the heat down you shouldn't need 120° to get that lube to flow.

[leftiye]

Heat also makes the o-rings soft and they won't hold the sides of the cylinder.

[runfiverun]

jakes doesn't really need all that heat, it actually needs less than magma eng. lube does.
but you need to have some heat up into the body to get that area softenough to push down
into the lubing area.
i had the same problem in my star this winter and had to put a lamp on the tube
to get it to push into the reservoir from the tube.
it would act like it was empty when it was full cause it was stuck up above.

[azrednek]

Thanks gentleman for the advice. I had to put it away for a day or two before it went through the window. Easier to walk away than get angry.

The problem is definitely not from running out of lube. The piston sticks about 1 to 1 !/2 inches from the top and if I can get it to move again, it will stick again a little past the half-way point. I suspect a burr on the threads or possibly dirt or some foreign matter in the threads.

Years ago I had an ancient Herters unit that I disassembled and boiled it clean on a Coleman stove. Afterward it worked like new. I would still be using it today but I dropped it on cement driveway and cracked the housing.

Guess I will have to do the same on the RCBS but I can't figure out how to remove the threaded rod. Not only do I want to clean it out real good I'd like to chase the threads. I might also use a brake cylinder hone inside the reservoir. Possibly replace both the rod and piston. Can anybody offer any advice on how to disassemble it and get the threaded rod out??

I looked at RCBS's website last night and didn't see the Lub A Matic listed anywhere in their warranty section. No way I could come up with a receipt anyway to prove I'm the original owner. I've had it since the 80's. I certainly wouldn't mind paying for any parts it might need if they are available.

Thanks again for the help, I will post the results of cleaning it out if i can figure out how to take it apart.

[dromia]

Contact RCBS, they will sort your sizer out.

No need of proof of purchase or to be the original owner either, RCBS product support is good.

Get in touch with them and have your faith in human nature restored for a while.

[GabbyM]

Here's a link to the RCBS LUBE-A-MATIC. I'll assume you've the old model. The model 2 is on the site also. Just back out the address to the last / to get to index page. http://www.rcbs.com/downloads/instru...structions.pdf

The rod just pushes out the bottom.

I've thought about honing mine out too. However if your piston is spinning in the bore now. Wouldn't honing the bore smooth make it more likely to spin? Mine tends to eat the O ring as it enters the bore. Maybe polish the throat a little. Pretty sure I'm missing the fiber washer item 27 also. As I leak lots of lube out the bottom.

I'll bet if you call RCBS you won't be the first to call with this problem.

When I bought mine used it had very old lube in it. I cleaned it by placing it in the oven set on about 135 degrees. Used a cookie sheet lined with aluminum foil to catch the goop. You of course disassemble it first. Sounds like all you need to clean is the rod and piston. Chasing the threads with tap and die sounds like a sure cure. Wire brush should go a long ways too. Once you get the rod and piston cleaned up I'd say work on it untill the piston spins easily down the threads.

PS
Looking at the model 2 drawing it appears their's retaining rings (items 9&3) on the lube pressure screw. Screw comes out the top. New model looks like it would be easier to load lube as the entire lube pressure assembly comes out.

[Scrounger]

Funny, I don't recall anyone having this kind of problems with the cheap little Lee Bullet Sizer.... 'Course, those of us who use it are the lazy type who don't like hassles and don't need to have something to work on to entertain ourselves... We just try to live by the 'Kiss' principle.