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Thread: First cast questions

  1. #1
    Boolit Bub
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    First cast questions

    I cast my first boolits about a week ago, and after removing the obvious errors, this is a sample of what I got.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I thought most of them looked okay. But, I put my calipers to them and noticed two problems.

    1. They are out of round. The dimension with the seam is a pretty consistent .4515 and the dimension across the seam is between .4535 - .454. Is that much difference an issue? After the first casting session, I noticed little flecks of lead on the mold faces, so I cleaned them off and had high hopes for the next session. Unfortunately, the mold is still throwing out of round boolits.

    2. My barrel slugged out at .4500. If the boolits being out of round is not an issue, is the maximum dimension of .454 in a .4500 barrel too big?

    I know a sizing die could fix both issues, but I'm already over budget on what I told the wife this venture would cost and I'd prefer not to spend too much more.

    Not sure if it will make a difference, but I will be tumble lubing with BLL and using a lee FCD as the last step in my reloading process.

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
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    double check the alignment pins.
    quite often they will be sticking out a bit too much and will open the mold a touch.
    sometimes they just need to wear in a bit.
    if you try to set them in make sure you get them both the same depth or they will pull the mold halves out of alignment.

  3. #3
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    A .452 Sizing die if fairly cheap, and in my opinion will turn these bullets into shooters.
    A useful tool to have.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master nvbirdman's Avatar
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    They may be out of round going into the barrel, but they'll be round coming out of the barrel.

  5. #5
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    the 454 might not chamber, but you can round them out some in the taper crimp die too.
    one of the tricks I use for my 41 mag to make them thumb seat easier is to run them up in one of my steel sizer dies just far enough to taper the front drive band down from 411 to 410 on the front edge.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master


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    That much difference in diameter indicates that there is a problem with the mold. The larger diameter .4535 to .454 kinda tells me that the mold is not closing all the way. The .4535 bullets are coming from the cavities nearest the handles and the larger are coming from the cavities further from the handles.
    Hold the molds up and see if you can see light between the halves. And make sure you are holding the mold closed when casting.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master 6622729's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wv109323 View Post
    That much difference in diameter indicates that there is a problem with the mold. The larger diameter .4535 to .454 kinda tells me that the mold is not closing all the way. The .4535 bullets are coming from the cavities nearest the handles and the larger are coming from the cavities further from the handles.
    Hold the molds up and see if you can see light between the halves. And make sure you are holding the mold closed when casting.
    Get the sizing die. It's $25 on eBay and solves your problem. It's still worth doing all of the checks of the mold mentioned earlier in the thread but if the mold really is throwing out of round and you can't find a fix, the sizing die lets you continue to use that mold, it brings your boolits to proper diameter and makes them round. Bonus, the sizing die comes with lube you can either use straight or to mix up 45/45/10 lube.

  8. #8
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    44man's Avatar
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    I am confused with the measurements. Seems he means the boolit is larger from seam to seam.
    I also question a .450" groove. Seems small.

  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master

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    You did not say what the mold is - if it is a Lee six cavity you can hold the mold slightly open with unconcious pressure on the sprue plate handle. I did this when holding the mold handles with welding gloves on. Got the same result or worse. If it is a Lee six cavity check the mechanism of the sprue plate handle when the mold is cold. You will see what is happening immediately.
    Wayne the Shrink

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  10. #10
    Boolit Bub
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    Thanks for the replies. There is a slight gap between the blocks. When I close them, I can see a very slim sliver of light in the cavities themselves. No amount of pressure I'm comfortable putting on the mold handles will close the gap, but I can close it by putting a C clamp on the blocks themselves. I've looked the blocks over and cannot see anything or feel anything that might be keeping the mold halves apart. If it is that the alignment pins are too far out, what can be done for that?

    The barrel groove is correct. I was under the impression that common was around .451, so I slugged it twice to confirm.

    As for the sizing die. I understand a sizing die is what I need to fix my problem and will be very valuable in the future, but I'm trying to get into casting on the cheap as honestly speaking I can't afford much right now. I'm casting with the bare minimums. SS bowl from the thrift store, old camp stove that we weren't using anymore, mold, ladle, and new thermocouple probe dedicated to lead. I got some lead for free from a very generous member here, and traded some brass for some more. With a few other odds and ends like lube, tin, etc. I'm over budget. My budget for this endeavor was LOW, $75 with $25 contingency. As you can imagine, I've blown through it all pretty quickly and easily.

    If you're telling me the only way to fix the boolits I've cast is to size them, I'll get to saving, or sell something to come up with the money. But, if there's another way to fix the problem going forward that requires time and effort, but little money, that's what I'm hoping for.

  11. #11
    Boolit Bub
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    By the way, I just re-read my post, and I'm not trying to give a sob story hoping for charity. We have money for what we need. I just have too many hobbies and can't justify spending much more money on this one till I prove to myself it's something I enjoy enough to drop another hobby I enjoy less.

    I'm casting in a lee two cavity; the mold number is 452-230TC.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master



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    I understand priorities,you may take your c-clamp and hot plate and heat the mold and let it stay for a while and then cool it a few times this may help.I have a 50 ton press that I use and have straighten a couple of molds that were warped
    Are my kids/grandkids more important than "o"'s kids, to me they are,darn tooting they are!!! They deserve the same armed protection afforded "o"'s kids.
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  13. #13
    Boolit Bub
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    Thanks again everyone for your input. I'll give some of your suggestions a try, and hopefully something can fix this mold. If not, I'll find some wiggle room for a sizing die. Probably ought to start saving for one regardless.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master

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    Can you get a clear pic of the gap with light behind it? If it is just a pin or seat problem, those are easy fixes. Please include pics of both mold faces, some of these guys can spot the tiniest flaw.
    "In God we trust, in all others, check the manual!"

  15. #15
    Boolit Bub
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    Quote Originally Posted by w5pv View Post
    take your c-clamp and hot plate and heat the mold and let it stay for a while and then cool it a few times this may help.I have a 50 ton press that I use and have straighten a couple of molds that were warped
    This did the trick. The gap closed a little after the first cycle, and closed completely by the third cycle. Now I gotta cast a few to see if everything is good.

    Thanks for the tip!!!!

  16. #16
    Boolit Master 1989toddm's Avatar
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    First cast questions

    Quote Originally Posted by HB0708 View Post
    This did the trick. The gap closed a little after the first cycle, and closed completely by the third cycle. Now I gotta cast a few to see if everything is good.

    Thanks for the tip!!!!
    Awesome!! I will write this tip down, have never heard it before. But it makes perfect sense as heating and cooling moves metal.
    I too, understand priorities and having to be creative to afford casting and loading. Glad you are able to cast and enjoy the molten stream!
    Ps. Slightly out of round boolits are not the end of the world. As long as it will seat in case and chamber, the barrel will size it and round it. Bigger is better than too small. I don't think our ancestors worried too much about a couple thousandths difference in size when casting over the campfire or fireplace.
    For by grace are you saved through faith, and that not of yourselves, it is the gift of God. Not of works, lest any man should boast. Eph. 2:8,9

  17. #17
    Boolit Bub
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1989toddm View Post
    Ps. Slightly out of round boolits are not the end of the world. As long as it will seat in case and chamber, the barrel will size it and round it. Bigger is better than too small. I don't think our ancestors worried too much about a couple thousandths difference in size when casting over the campfire or fireplace.
    Yeah. If I couldn't get the mold to close properly I was going to load up a dummy round and see if it fit in the chamber. I just didn't know if being 3-4 thousandths oversize was getting too big for the barrel. I didn't want to risk trying to cram it down the barrel if it was unsafe.

    Good point about the old days. I guess it's the engi-nerd in me that gets all caught up on "significant digits" that are not really significant in practical terms.

  18. #18
    Boolit Grand Master OS OK's Avatar
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    There is a sizer die at .452" for sale @ $10 on this link…right now…Estate sale, part 1. Mold, tools and dies.
    Better act quick this will make those boolits just fine!

    OS OK
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  19. #19
    Boolit Bub
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    Thanks for the link. listed as SPF.

    Also, I don't have a punch and cheapest I could find online was $6 with $6 shipping. Might as well buy new.

  20. #20
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    There is a slight gap between the blocks. When I close them, I can see a very slim sliver of light in the cavities themselves.
    * Put the COLD alum mold on a hot plate or over a gas stove burner - heat to between 200 - 400 F and then cool to room temperature.
    * Do this 3 times
    Then take the room temperature mold - put in a padded vice and squeeze the COMPLETE blocks. Hold to light ... should be no day light between the halves
    Regards
    John

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check