Powdercoating jacketed bullets?

[GregLaROCHE]

I think PCing makes sense to increase boolit diameter. There’s know reason I can see that it shouldn’t work on copper jackets as long as they are oil free.
I have heard that some people say PCed boolits are a little faster than plain lead. I don’t recall anyone comparing them to jacketed bullets.

[Dragonheart]

Of course you can PC copper jackets or any other metal, glass or material that can withstand the curing process. After all, the thermoset polymer was designed for that. The polymer is about the same hardness as copper, has a tenacious bond to the sub-straight, provides less friction than copper and from tests can withstand the torque spin up of 50K psi chamber pressure and 3500+ muzzle velocity.

My question is why coat copper jackets? To gain additional bullet diameter I can see. But would it be worth the time, effort and expense just to gain 5% in velocity or to prevent copper fouling. Additionally, the bullets would need to be resized, which means moving metal, possible creating a less accurate, non-concentric bullet. But whatever floats your boat, as it would be a conversation piece.

[Shadow9mm]

One reason I was considering this is that I have some Barnes bullets for 44spl that left some wicked copper fouling after less than 10rnds. though PC might fix that problem.

[Dragonheart]

One reason I was considering this is that I have some Barnes bullets for 44spl that left some wicked copper fouling after less than 10rnds. though PC might fix that problem.

PC will stop the fouling as long as it is coated and cured properly. I would wash the bullets in acetone to remove any oils, then size them down before putting on a heavy PC. then finish size again.
Preheating the bullets under 140° before tumbling will allow a heaver layer of powder or you can do a partial cure for additional coats. Coat the first coat and heat just past the flow about 200°-250° then stop and apply the second coat, repeat for additional coats if desired then do a full cure on the final coat. This allows multiple coats to bond as one. Average rifling is approximately .004" land to groove so a heavy PC is riding the rifling and is tough and elastic enough to not cut through.

[GregLaROCHE]

Besides saving time and electricity, is it better doing a partial cure for prior to finish coat? Makes sense that it cures all together and not in several layers.

[farmbif]

I didn't read all of this stuff, but powder coating jacketed bullets is that something people are doing or is it a play on words like Jumbo Shrimp
I would think if your barrel is getting extreme fouling from jacketed bullets maybe lapping it could help or is the gun like one of the Remington built marlins that has rifling only half way down the barrel or something like that due to poor craftsmanship. I dont know much about new guns, ive only had like 4 of them in my life and guess I was lucky they all had good barrels the rest came to me broken in pretty good.

[Dragonheart]

[QUOTE=GregLaROCHE;5353339]Besides saving time and electricity, is it better doing a partial cure for prior to finish coat? Makes sense that it cures all together and not in several layers.[/QU

A partial cure is the recommended way for multi-coats including a top or clear coat. Here is an example of an illusion blue base coat, which just looks blue until the top coat is applied and the color changes dramatically.

[oley55]

glad I read through the thread and realized this was a 2016 thread because I was going to offer the OP a link to larger than normal ,431" jacketed 44mag bullets at Everglades Ammo.

[Three44s]

I have about 300 plus 40 gr. Spitzer J-words for the 22 Remington Jet. They are measuring .222-.2225”.

I do not have anything to run them through with that barrel size. I am contemplating powder coating a few and trying them in my .224” bored guns. My first “victim” will likely be a 22 Hornet.

Three44s

[mehavey]

read in here some where that the powder doesn't do well on gas checks...

Works fine.
Just make sure bullets are squeaky clean.

[charlie b]

Works on gas checks just fine.

Before

After


I also found that gas checks will remove a lot of the copper fouling from jacketed bullets. Discovered this 'by mistake' one day when I fired some jacketed bullets and then some cast (PC with GC). When I shot just jacketed I'd have a good deposit of copper in the barrel. When I went to clean this time there was almost no copper in the barrel.

[Three44s]

I wonder if the PC is also removing the copper deposits?

Best regards

Three44s

[charlie b]

I tried that with a plain base, PC bullet and the copper remained.

[Three44s]

I have two sets of three rounds with the naked J-words .2225” loaded in standard 22 hornet cases to try. I gave them a bit of a crimp.

I will try them in my Savage 40 single shot.

I will probably try a few with powder coating as well just because it’s hard to pass up the challenge!

The intelligent thing would be to put them up for sale or trade ..... but why do things easy?

Three44s

[Three44s]

I loaded a 10 shot test in the Hornet with .2225” Jet jacketed bullets without PC and the group was not very good at 100 yards. The brass was new PPU and the necks were sized undersize.

Next I PCed about 50 of the same j-words with two coats. They then calipered .2245” (a gain of .002”).

Loaded and fired ten and the PC group tightened about a third overall. So progress.

I did not have acetone so they were unwashed. The coating is a little rough on a few of the slugs so I would probably gain by a good degrease though.

I will say that wearing latex gloves and plucking those tiny slugs out of the plastic BB and powder mix is certainly a test of one’s patience .....

Three44s

[Dragonheart]

I loaded a 10 shot test in the Hornet with .2225” Jet jacketed bullets without PC and the group was not very good at 100 yards. The brass was new PPU and the necks were sized undersize.

Next I PCed about 50 of the same j-words with two coats. They then calipered .2245” (a gain of .002”).

Loaded and fired ten and the PC group tightened about a third overall. So progress.

I did not have acetone so they were unwashed. The coating is a little rough on a few of the slugs so I would probably gain by a good degrease though.

I will say that wearing latex gloves and plucking those tiny slugs out of the plastic BB and powder mix is certainly a test of one’s patience .....

Three44s

Don't pluck, use some self closing tweezers. A lot faster, more secure and easier to position bullets than fingers. Note, I ground the tweezer tip so it easily grabs the bullets bands. When the tweezers close the bullet is locked in place. I then just drop the bullet in into my SS grid ( a baker's cooling rack) that is sitting on a silicon mat to transport to oven without bullers toppling.

[charlie b]

I like to add some heat shrink tubing to the ends of the tweezers. There is the shiny kind and the matte kind. The matte kind works better for me.

[MarkinMD]

I tried PC on j bullets for 357 mag in my Henry big boy. Only did five. Fired over the chronograph and seemed to pick up 50 to 100 FPS with all other things being equal. I did run them through a Lee push sizer just like I would have with a cast boolit. I have not followed up for accuracy and further speed tests to date. I like messing with cast boolits more. Test bullet was Hornady 357 158 gr JHP/FP. At some point, I may follow up with more tests. PC was Eastwood green. Appearance was downright ugly but smooth.