Reloading EverythingRepackboxSnyders JerkyRotoMetals2
Load DataLee PrecisionTitan ReloadingWideners
MidSouth Shooters Supply Inline Fabrication
Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: Given a 310 tool for .38 Special

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Belfast, ME
    Posts
    563

    Given a 310 tool for .38 Special

    My neighbor's grandfather had this Lyman 310 tong tool and, knowing I did reloading, the neighbor gave it to me. The powder is pistol #6, the primers Western 1 1/2s in a tray with wooden separators, and the bullets are lubed with the old Lyman black grease.
    I've got a bench full of stuff accumulated over a period of 52 years, but I decided for nostalgia's sake to put together 100 rounds to use the primers, powder, and bullets. My brass was not fired in the S&W 4" bbl. M&P in the picture, so I did full-length size it on the bench, as it would not go in the gun with just muzzle resizing, although that die does work. I popped a couple of primers to see if they were OK. The dipper in the picture is hand made from a cutoff case and throws 3.5 gr. #6. The funnel is hand made from galvanized sheet, very nicely soldered. I did the 100 rounds in two separate sessions, but if I had set out from start to finish I could have done it in about an hour and a half.
    DuPont #6 and Western primers are about 60 years out of production, but the powder smelled OK and the primers worked as designed. It didn't seem appropriate to shoot the rounds in a target gun or a big heavy .357, so I got out the old police M&P. I didn't put them on paper, either, but they would punch a tin can every time at 25 yards, as long as I could see the old fixed sights with the old eyeball.

    I read the threads about the 310 tool here, and this old steel tool works fine. Long ago I had an aluminum handle 310 tool for the .32 S&W Long, which worked but not as well as this. Something about the bushing in the handle was not right and I ended up just using it to prime cases.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails .38 Spl Tong tool.jpg  

  2. #2
    Boolit Master jameslovesjammie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Plentywood
    Posts
    850
    I'd keep the powder can and primer box when they're empty. You could make a really cool display with them and the 310 in original box!

  3. #3
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Missouri, in the Ozarks
    Posts
    509
    Those primers are old enough to be corrosive...I'd be sure to clean the old M&P well after running those loads through.

    That's a nice set-up!
    "Great danger lies in the notion that we can reason with evil." Doug Patton


    Converting lead into gold

  4. #4
    Boolit Master Morgan Astorbilt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Golden Valley, NC
    Posts
    917
    Wow, I wonder how old that 310 tool is. I got mine, when I became a cop back in 1965, to reload my .38spls., and it was an aluminum one. Have many pleasant memories, of my wife and I, sitting on the sofa, watching TV and depriming, sizing and repriming brass. The only thing I didn't do, was add powder and seat bullets. I did that at the kitchen table, using dippers I made out of .22 cases with #12 wire soldered on as handles. Had a powder scale, but no measure. We had a very small apartment, and a new baby.
    Morgan

  5. #5
    Boolit Master and Generous Donator
    floodgate's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    2,227
    Morgan:

    If I recall correctly, the transition from the old caliber-specific steel 310s to the new alloy-handled ones occurred around 1957. There were a VERY few steel tools made stamped with just a number code indicating the case head size they were bored for (reportedly, only a week or so of production), and then - somewhat more common, but still scarce - steel 310's with the interchangeable case-head bushings, knuckle wear plate and adjustable extractor hook, as carried forward into the alloy tools. Again, these late steel tools were made for only a short time, and marked "L" for long, "S" for short, and either/both "LS" or "SPL" for the oversize ones for .348 W, .50-70 and 8mm Lebel.

    Doug
    NOV SHMOZ KA POP?

  6. #6
    Boolit Master Morgan Astorbilt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Golden Valley, NC
    Posts
    917
    Thanks, Doug.
    Morgan

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Belfast, ME
    Posts
    563
    Alchemist - hard to see on the box, but labeled "Non-mercuric, Non-Corrosive".
    Jameslovesjammie - you can have the box & can if you want them, send me a PM, but I'm keeping the 310 tool for now.

    Just for grins I did another 86 rounds with it to use up a batch of 358311 158 gr. RN bullets I had. Definitely building up the grip this way.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
    HeavyMetal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Orange county, Ca.
    Posts
    3,944
    310 tools can be kinda cool if you have the time.

    If you have a Dillon, of any type, this tool will sure raise your apreceation level of it a whole bunch!

    Sit on this baby for awhile, It's always a good training tool as well a converation piece.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check