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Thread: "What…ONE…thing would U change on UR Press?"

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy
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    My LNL ap to have the built in ability to remove the military crimp during normal load run. From brass bucket to bullet in a single run would be nice for rifle

  2. #22
    Boolit Master dudel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Outer Rondacker View Post
    That looks like it will work. But it will be a cold day in you know where before I spend 30+shipping on that thing. Looks like I need to be heating up some HDPE just as soon as the rain lets up. Looks easy enough to cut from a small block. Drill a few holes and flare the edge. Thanks
    I hear you OR. Looks like a block with three holes would do it. Two holes to mount to the existing holes on the SQB, and a larger hole that you could press fit a hose into. Maybe chamfer the inside of the hose.

  3. #23
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    Could I turn it into a dillon .

  4. #24
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    I have several presses and use about 5 or 6 most often. The Lyman TruLine Jr would be "perfect" if I could get TC sizing dies for it, the Lyman All American needs a spent primer catcher, the RCBS Jr is about perfect when I use it, as is the HDS Compac (hand held) Press. The Dillon 550 and the Star Progressive each has its own quirks but would be fine if I just would use them more often and get into a routine. Really the biggest problems with each of my presses involve lack o sufficiently frequent usage!

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  5. #25
    Boolit Grand Master OS OK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rbuck351 View Post
    I have a bunch of different presses. The two that I would not change anything are the Dillon 550b and the Lyman AA. I like the bullet and the case loaded on opposite sides as I can insert both at the same time saving one step. My pro 1000 Lees could stand a Dillon type primer system. The Rockchucker has a primer system I don't like. The Lyman Spar T and the CH tilt back which bugs me. My Star drops powder whether there is a case there or not and the add a bullet station is at the back which is hard to see. My Herters has only one good thing, it's stout. I could care less about spent primers as I have a concrete floor and a long handle dust pan and broom and a shop vac for those that hide in the corners.
    Have you thought about…or is it feasible to make a wedge to mount those 'leaning' presses on that would lock them on the bench in a straight up position?
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    Last edited by OS OK; 02-25-2016 at 12:45 PM.
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  6. #26
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    Hornady LNL AP small priming: I have never been able to get the small priming system on the press to work reliably. It works fine on large, but smalls are an issue. High primers were so prevalent, even after multiple modifications, that I just gave up priming on the press with smalls.

    Rock Chucker primer disposal: We all know how often it skips spent primers across the room.

    Walnut Hill handle swing: The 180 degree swing is a bit much. Tilting the press backwards 45 degrees makes it bearable, but it doesn't get used for reloading anyway.

    Lee Classic Cast mounting holes: The base plate should be longer and the holes set more to the rear.

    T7 turret detent ball: The detent ball under the turret really should be captured in the press body. If you don't know that it isn't, you'll spend a while looking for that ball the first time you change turrets. Maybe it was incorporated as a reloading room organizing incentive......
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  7. #27
    Boolit Master Lead Fred's Avatar
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    Both my RCBS presses Id not change a thing.

    My 1952 Lyman I have to change the rams from 45/70 to 30 cal every now and then.
    (before they used shell holders)
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  8. #28
    Boolit Grand Master OS OK's Avatar
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    Attachment 161909Attachment 161910
    Quote Originally Posted by Guardian View Post
    Hornady LNL AP small priming: I have never been able to get the small priming system on the press to work reliably. It works fine on large, but smalls are an issue. High primers were so prevalent, even after multiple modifications, that I just gave up priming on the press with smalls.

    Rock Chucker primer disposal: We all know how often it skips spent primers across the room.

    Walnut Hill handle swing: The 180 degree swing is a bit much. Tilting the press backwards 45 degrees makes it bearable, but it doesn't get used for reloading anyway.

    Lee Classic Cast mounting holes: The base plate should be longer and the holes set more to the rear.

    T7 turret detent ball: The detent ball under the turret really should be captured in the press body. If you don't know that it isn't, you'll spend a while looking for that ball the first time you change turrets. Maybe it was incorporated as a reloading room organizing incentive......
    I had problems too with the primers ending up proud of the case bottom…gave up on priming on any of the presses. Started depriming on this cheap Lee press with a universal deprime die. I mounted that Lee on the 1/4X20 hex nuts to allow more room to store primers underneath and put the rubber band there to keep them inside the bottom until I would dump them.
    It's an extra step this way but the primer pockets and flash holes get cleaned well and makes this old 'OCD' man happy.
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  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by OS OK View Post
    Attachment 161909Attachment 161910


    I had problems too with the primers ending up proud of the case bottom…gave up on priming on any of the presses. Started depriming on this cheap Lee press with a universal deprime die. I mounted that Lee on the 1/4X20 hex nuts to allow more room to store primers underneath and put the rubber band there to keep them inside the bottom until I would dump them.
    It's an extra step this way but the primer pockets and flash holes get cleaned well and makes this old 'OCD' man happy.
    I like that Idea. I do not prime on my single stage presses. I use hand prime for odds and ends. I do run a universal deprime on my RCBS all the time. All rifle and some pistol get this first before going to the wash. Like I said the RCBS cup fills up fast.;]

  10. #30
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    My Hornady LNL AP doesn't prime very well. It's always buggering up the bracket that holds the guide rail in place. It's bad enough that I just hand prime almost exclusively now.

    My Lee Classic Cast single stage could use a wider base plate now that you mention it.

    Both the Lee and the Hornady have 100% reliable primer catches, provided you go down to the hardware store and get tubing long enough to reach your spent primer can.

    The only other press I have is the RCBS Partner. I don't much care for the primer catch on it, but I honestly never use it anyway. I'd rather have the bench space than the press mounted.

    I do like the Lock N Load bushings, which I use on the LNL (of course) and on the Lee Classic Cast.

  11. #31
    Boolit Man
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    The occasional upsidedown feed from the case feeder. DILLON 650.

  12. #32
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    OS OK
    I though about wedging those two upright but I use the Spar-T for special things rather than reloading and the CH I don't even have mounted. I gave up fighting primers everywhere and just use the shop vac. I don't know how you could fix that on the Lyman AA.
    Most of the Alaska reality shows aren't reality. The two that are pretty real are The Alaska Troopers and the one about gold dredging of the coast of Nome. I lived in Nome for 6 years. That was an experience.

  13. #33
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    I'd like the manufacturers to come up with a way to shorten the stroke without giving up the leverage. Already know about the aftermarket levers and they don't address this well. I've made a pile of different levers. shorter, curved like the old cash registers etc. but the tradeoff is always leverage or distance, pick one. The Pro-1000 stroke is about 24inches and the Classic a bit more. Love the presses but reaching way up then almost bending over to finish takes its toll. Audie...the Oldfart.

  14. #34
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    This is a great thread! Some things that bug me:
    Small and large charge rotors for rotary powder throwers. If you aren't paying attention and use the large for pistol drops, consistency goes out the window.

    Manufacturers that discontinue parts support for presses that are NOT obsolete or worn out. Hornady, I am looking at you. I can't get any priming parts for my projector and it is my main press for intermediate runs (100-200 rounds) of ammo. I have a lot invested in she'll plates and like using the press. I'll just prime off of the press but it bugs me.

    Nonstandardized nuts, bolts, and Allen screws. Why do I need a toolbox to perform minor adjustments on 3 or 4 presses? This isn't going to change I know.
    "Is all this REALLY necessary?"

  15. #35
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    I have a 45+ year old Lyman Spar-T press that just keeps chugging along getting the job done. It drops primers on the floor so I catch them with a container in my left hand while stroking with my right. The main gripe is the gap of the press between ram and turret is just short enough to require inserting the bullet in a 30-06 length case up into the seater die as I insert the base of the cartridge in the shell holder. It could use a half inch more gap for these long cases. On the other hand, I gave $35 for it back in the early 70s so I've really saved a bunch of dough on press expenses, and I still make plenty accurate loads in multiple calibers. It is fairly efficient for bulk loading of pistol calibers using Lee through the die charging, carbide sizer and separate crimping die. I do not mind the tilt back that others mentioned in the thread, probably because I never thought about it before as being abnormal in any way.

    I also have an equally ancient Lee 12 gage load-all press that gets the job done and dumps primers under the press. It is slower but gets the job done. Getting the right stroke on the crimp is its Achilles heel but once a load is set up and practiced it can turn out nice results. It was about $20 when I purchased it new, and is still a reasonable bargain new today. It's most annoying trait is spilling a bit of flake powders around the charge bar so maybe mine is getting a bit worn out.
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  16. #36
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    I just made a deal on a spar-t. Going to set a new reloader up with it once I get it going. He only reloads 45acp at the moment. I hope it will work for him like it has for you Nicholas.

  17. #37
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    from post #21 to post #36.............. #34 is by far the best list here. I use only RCBS, so the issues with hornady are a valid point. Brand does not mattter. if replacement parts are no longer available, It is not worth keeping. KUDO"S TO FISHMAN.

  18. #38
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  19. #39
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    Dillon 550Bv Primer seating. I'm updating my powder dispenser from the old style so I'll reserve comment. Had it since 86 so can't complain, it was the top of the line then. Still kicking round the idea of a 650.

    Rock Chucker: Through ram spent primer exhaust like the Redding models have. In the mean time I get by the the old horseshoe waste recepticle and a bunch of post it notes taped to the front of the O frame to keep them from going on the floor.

    T-7: Bigger diameter handle for less flex. Easily changed out.

  20. #40
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    My Lee Classic Cast Breech Lock should have had the spent primer system like the Classic Cast. Sturdier handle.

    Redding T-7: An optional 3-hole head with 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 threads.

    RCBS Quickchange Powder Measure: The inside of the funnel and tube need to be polished, or at least brush off all the loose powdercoat overspray. Keep a handle on the case activated linkage for when you want to manual operate the drop without cycling the press.

    RCBS ProChucker 7: The spent primer system could have been designed better. Sell the 7-hole die plate by itself (they said not happening).

    Every Press Manufacturer: Should provide a printed mounting hole template.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check