Roll or taper crimp for 357 mag with cast boolits

[dannyd]

taper crimp works better for me because I don't have to trim the brass.

[dragon813gt]

A Lee FCD is a poor choice for loading with cast bullets. Normally, cast bullets are larger than jacketed bullets and the "post seating/crimping" feature of an FCD often swages lead bullets undersize.

Since this thread is about 357 Magnum you should state which FCD you had. Because Lee makes both a pistol style(carbide ring) and a rifle style(collet) for this cartridge. So they do make a FCD that works great for the cartridge w/ no way of post sizing a bullet. The blanket "all FCDs are junk" statement doesn't apply to a few pistol caliber cartridges because of they offer a rifle style FCD.

Oh yeah, I roll crimp.

[dikman]

This got me curious. I recently loaded my first batch using the FCD (.38/.357 die), so I did a comparison with a micrometer between the new loads and some previous loads, some coated and some lubed, which were made with the "standard" die.

Result, no difference, so no resizing occurring.

[Lefty Red]

Like other memebers have stated, I roll for my 357/38s if it a traditional revolver style bullet.
But lately I have been using some 9mm bullets in my 38s and find a tamper crimp works well.

Jerru

[Lefty Red]

This got me curious. I recently loaded my first batch using the FCD (.38/.357 die), so I did a comparison with a micrometer between the new loads and some previous loads, some coated and some lubed, which were made with the "standard" die.

Result, no difference, so no resizing occurring.

I never found a differance either. I did find that you can really mess up a round of you crank the FCD too much. Less is more, IMHO, with the FCD.

Jerry

[Outer Rondacker]

When I first started loading I had a friend who asked if we could make his some hunting loads for his 44mag. We worked up the loads and it soon came to light he was a very bad shot. Well he just kept wanting more power more power. Once we hit max load I said that is it. Well he kept on me so I loaded last 20 shells he was going to use for hunting with a middle of the road charge and put a heavy RC on them. His eyes popped out of his head after he shot these. Now that is some power he said. The heavy RC made it seam like it had more kick. He still could not hit squat.

[Le Loup Solitaire]

Crimping is a necessary evil as it cold works the case mouth/neck and this sooner or later causes or contributes to cracks and case fatigue. I prefer to use taper crimping as long as I can get away with it. In Magnum loadings a taper crimp probably won't be sufficient to prevent any bullet movement so some degree of roll crimping is necessary. In lever rifles magazine spring pressure would also have to be considered. In some pistol calibers such as the 45ACP or the 9mm, where the loaded round must seat on the case mouth...some degree of taper crimp is usually applied....however too much taper crimp is not recommended as it will interfere with proper chambering. LLS

[wrench man]

Wheel/Lever gun ammo get a fair ROLL crimp.

[cowboy60]

I use roll crimp on cast lead with a crimp groove.
The Redding profile crimp works well with jacketed that has a canalure.
Just my 2 cents worth.

[MT Chambers]

I seem to be able to roll crimp revolver and levergun ammo very solidly without needing to buy the Lee FCD, I must have been doing something wrong for the last 50 years.

[takasaki]

I seem to be able to roll crimp revolver and levergun ammo very solidly without needing to buy the Lee FCD, I must have been doing something wrong for the last 50 years.

+1 I roll crimp all my 38/357 loads without the use of a fcd and have never had any problems whatsoever

[str8wal]

I seem to be able to roll crimp revolver and levergun ammo very solidly without needing to buy the Lee FCD, I must have been doing something wrong for the last 50 years.

I've never used any other than the regular dies either. Never had a problem and I also seat and crimp with the same pull of the handle. Ignorence is bliss, I guess......

[Hi-Speed]

I roll crimp when using the cast bullet crimp groove and taper crimp when OAL requirements dictate that I crimp outside the crimp groove. For instance, when I load standard 158 gr SWC cast in 38 Spl +P, I’ll load them to 1.440” OAL which requires that I taper crimp on the bullet sides…I never experience bullet creep with these (velocities up to 950 fps) in either my Ruger Blackhawk or S&W Heavy Duty…guess the heavy weight of these guns have something to do with it!

I find that roll crimping into the sides of cast bullets will impede the cartridge going into the chambers smoothly of my S&W Heavy Duty without adding a little push. For these, I’ll crimp in bullet groove or taper outside of the groove.

[lotech]

Both crimps work fine but I prefer the taper crimp. No bullet movement either way. Probably the best test is to do a side-by-side benchrested accuracy comparison at 25 yards. I've had little experience with the Lee factory crimp die, but you shouldn't need it (exceptions noted, of course) if you're doing everything right.

[derek45]

I prefer bullets with a good crimp groove

works well with a good roll crimp

…especially if using powders like H110/Win296

[mdi]

Since 1969 I have been seating revolver bullets to the crimp groove. When In started reloading, waaaay pre web, I figgered the bullet designer knew where the groove should be located, so that's how deep I seated the bullets. Logic told me the groove was designed for the case mouth to be rolled into the groove so all my cast bullets or cannelure bullets were roll crimped. I tried seating to book OAL but often the crimp groove was either too deep or outside the case. I reloaded thousands of 38 Specials without a problem, so I continued to this day to seat to the crimp groove and disregard book OAL. Works quite well for my handloads from light 38 Special all the way up to my T-Rex killer 44 Magnum max loads...

For obvious reasons I just deflare my semi-auto handloads with a taper crimp die...

[Land Owner]

I truly enjoy that boolit profile derek45. Whether 38 Spc or 357 Mag, cases that head space on the rim are roll crimped into the crimp groove.

[gwpercle]

Lever Action Rifle ... it's best to roll crimp into a boolit with a flat point and a crimp groove . RF or SWC .

I've never used one of the Lee Factory Crimp Dies so I can't speak on that .

In my Ruger Blackhawk handgun ... Revolver Here , I have taper crimped some 124 grain. TC 9mm boolits sized to .358" and they held but the loads were not extremely heavy ... mid-range 357 Magnum and 38 Special +P and +P+ . but have never tried these boolits in a 357 Magnum Lever Action Rifle . The magazine spring exerts added pressure and the taper crimp may not hold completely .
Gary

[Hi-Speed]

…my most accurate 357 Magnum load uses the Lyman 358429 SWC (170 gr) with 11.0 grs 2400. I seat them to 1.565” OAL (per 1973 Lyman Cast Bullet manual spec) but since that puts the crimp groove below the case mouth, I use a taper crimp on the side of the bullet…I never experience any bullet creep with it in my Ruger 4 5/8 Blackhawk and the load is a “tack driver” for me (avg velocity is 1,135 fps).

I always roll crimp when using the cast bullet’s crimp groove…which is most of the time with my other preferred bullets (Lyman 358477, 358156GC, 358439 (38 Spl cases), Magma SWC, etc)

[dannyd]

Like I said before taper works for me



Works at 50 yards too