I thought I was the only one that did that with a new 1911... good to know others do it too.
I thought I was the only one that did that with a new 1911... good to know others do it too.
This thread reminds me. I've often wondered how you and I can gauge the compression of a coil spring ? I use a 32 coil for Hard Ball in my Gold Cup, but that is too heavy
for target loads. (It slams back much harder than necessary). I replace it with a 28 coil when using .199 gr SWC / 3.2 BE. I really do not know what the strength of either one of these springs are, or how that may change with time compressed in the gun or use. Just wondering.
old benn
I may have figured it out !! How about using a kitchen scale and depressing the spring with a small dowel inserted to keep control, and allowing the dowel
to slide through a hole in what is used to do the "compressing"? I'll have to try it.
Last edited by old benn; 02-20-2016 at 11:48 AM.
Just for giggles, which way is the recoil spring installed? The closed coil goes over the guide rod and the open coil goes in the plug. Installing it backwards is common (because the closed coil can be a snug fit) and will cause coil bind.
"In God we trust, in all others, check the manual!"
John, from what I can read you are loading the round correctly. Something is retarding the slide as it moves to the rear after firing. It could be a overly strong spring, improper lubrication or machine hickies on the frame or slide.
You are on the right track to run this down. I will want to hear how things work for you this afternoon.
Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.
Success at last!
I shot 5 rounds of factory Federal 230 gr FMJ RN through one magazine and everything worked and cycled perfectly. I then shot 5 rounds of my 4.8 gr BE pushing 230 gr LRN through the second magazine and that also worked and cycled perfectly. The only thing that had changed from the original post was that I oiled the pistol real well and hand cycled the action 500 times, thanks to the suggestion from NavyVet1959. All of my ammo was within SAAMI specs.
There is one particular area that bothers me. On the underside of my slide in the center at the rear area, there are 3 marks that are rough to the touch. It appears to be a round mark or shield followed by "13" but could just be scratches from some unknown cause. Should this center part be honed to be smooth or does it belong?
Thanks to all that made great suggestions.
John
If it is a raised burr on the edges of the impressions hone it. If it is marks stamped into the metal and no burr leave it. Either way it will self hone in no time with regular shooting.
Got a .22 .30 .32 .357 .38 .40 .41 .44 .45 .480 or .500 S&W cylinder that needs throats honed? 9mm, 10mm/40S&W, 45 ACP pistol barrel that won't "plunk" your handloads? 480 Ruger or 475 Linebaugh cylinder that needs the "step" reamed to 6° 30min chamfer? Click here to send me a PM You can also find me on Facebook Click Here.
Attachment 161454You could try this…we were just throwing some ideas around on another thread…'Redneck Engineering' pat.pend. (Ha!)
a m e r i c a n p r a v d a
Be a Patriot . . . expose their lies!
“In a time of deceit, telling the truth is a revolutionary act.” G. Orwell
Thank you OS OK . . . . Knew there was some additional backwoods ingenuity out there on the horizon. I will need to borrow a fishing scale to try that one though.
(Think I see some artistic ability in the drawing.) I appreciate your post. Old Benn
I picked up a 50 kg digital luggage scale awhile back off of eBay for around $4. I wanted the heavier weight due to the weight that I'm allowed on international flights. It works pretty good for determining trigger pull weights also if you tie a knot in a small string and run it over the trigger and then have the two loop ends hook onto the hook of the scale.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Portable-50k...0AAOSwqrtWo3uU
There are also some that are less than $2 that are a bit more compact, but do not handle as much weight. These would be good enough for domestic flights or determining spring weights.
RECOMMENDED RECOIL SPRING
Gun Light Target Load Full Charge Load Govt/Gold Cup (stock) #10 #18.5 Govt/Gold Cup (compens.) #9 #15 Govt/Gold Cup (.38SP/9mm stock) #10 #15 Govt/Gold Cup (.38SP/9mm comp.) #9 #13 Delta Elite (10mm stock) #18.5 #24 Govt/Gold Cup (.40S&W stock) #13 #22 Commander (.45 stock) #12 #20 Officers (.45 stock guide) #18.5 #24 Springfield Compact (.45 stock) #20 #24
Thanks for posting that scale Randy.
Are we to assume that full charge listing indicates a 230 Gn. bullet and a light load something around 180 Gr. to 20 Gn. ?
Last edited by Jim..47; 02-21-2016 at 02:39 PM. Reason: my brain is slow these days
John,
Are your cast boolits the same profile as the Federal 230s? Some cast boolits nave a much rounder profile, like a "2R" such as the Lee molds. Those can't be loaded to the same OAL as Browning's original profile because they'll drag on the magazine and possibly slow the slide down if they can be stripped from the magazine. The recoil spring of a 5" 1911 should be compressed to 1-5/8" long to measure its strength.
David
Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris
I had access to Federal FMJ RN. I do not have access to info on Federal 230 LRN that you mention to compare but the ones that I had loaded per the original post cycled just fine after I oiled the slide well and worked the slide by hand for more than 500 cycles. Everything seems to work fine now.
Last edited by John Hill; 02-22-2016 at 11:43 AM.
Love the ideas for a compression spring scale. I have a collection of springs that were picked up here and there with no idea what poundage they are. At least with these ideas you could tell which ones are stronger and weaker.
Regarding the ops problem. Someone earlier had mentioned the grip possibly being the problem. Years ago my wife got into pistol shooting for SD reasons. Nothing do her but she was going to learn to shoot a 1911 like they do in the movies. You know rapid fire, drop a mag, slam another one in and repeat. My flawlessly performing 45 gave her the same problems the op was experiencing. I explained to her about how important having a steady firm grip was for the ejection process to be able to work. She finally mastered it and now no problems. Shooting 1911's is where the term, "limp wristed came from". They will not work if allowed to jump back too much on firing.
By the way. From 15 yards my wife can pump 7 rounds into a milk jug full of sand, drop a mag, slam another in and hit it 7 more times in rapid succession. She thinks it's the neatest trick in the world. Grins from ear to ear.
Floyd
a m e r i c a n p r a v d a
Be a Patriot . . . expose their lies!
“In a time of deceit, telling the truth is a revolutionary act.” G. Orwell
One question. .the brass you using 1xs fired that you bought?
Reason being is I had very similar experience with an RIA compact 45. 1st round would go to full battery. The others would not without a push from my thumb. But these very same rounds would function flawlessly thru my kimber or Sti. It took me 2 yrs of frustrating off and on playing with it to figure it out.
I on a whim bulge busted the brass. .problem went away. It's weird if the brass was fired in a glock why it would function thru a kimber but not my RIA
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |