WD-40 again

[Le Loup Solitaire]

I have used a product called "Clenzoil" for many years now to clean bores and to wipe down gun exteriors as it prevents rust. It looks to be green in the bottle but this is not visible when applied to metal. It cleans fouling well. It used to be sold in hardware stores which I where I once found it. There is a distributor network that can be found on the net. LLS

[Garyshome]

Keeps the car doors workin pretty well.

[mac266]

For my reloading presses I just use 3-in-1 oil.

[Petrol & Powder]

I have used a product called "Clenzoil" for many years now to clean bores and to wipe down gun exteriors as it prevents rust. It looks to be green in the bottle but this is not visible when applied to metal. It cleans fouling well. It used to be sold in hardware stores which I where I once found it. There is a distributor network that can be found on the net. LLS

Everyone has some favorite gun oil and Clenzoil became my favorite over 15 years ago. It works in any temperature, never gums up and does everything expected of a gun oil. It does seem to be something of a regional thing as far as distribution is concerned. A few select gun stores have it in stock but the internet is a better bet when trying to put your hands on it.
Clenzoil is a decent cleaner but I still reach for my can of Kroil when cleaning the bore although Clenzoil is almost as good.
RIG is still my #1 choice for long term protection of ferrous metal.
I keep a lot of oils & greases on the gun cleaning shelf but WD-40 is not one of them ! WD-40 has its place but not around guns!

[44man]

Ballistol is good stuff and can be mixed with water for a great BP cleaner. When the water dries, Ballistol is still there, working.
Back ages ago, all my friends swore by Clensoil in Ohio with a lot of moisture problems, good stuff.
I firmly believe WD-40 actually causes rust.
I also did a lot of locksmith work and nothing will gum up tumblers like WD-40. If you put anything in a lock, use the graphite lube.
Maybe Hoppe's is the best to remove WD-40.
I remember that every time I went to the farms to hunt, I had to help take apart frozen and rusted farm machines and is when I seen the drums of WD-40 in the barns.
I have used WD-40 to flush chips and to lube my cherries when cutting molds but they get washed with dish soap very soon after. You need to get it off and replace it. How it causes painted and plated surfaces to rust is a mystery. The base of the MEC is red painted and a dry rag turned red when I wiped it. I knew right off, the gum was WD-40! I cleaned the whole machine with Hoppe's and OOOO steel wool, then sprayed with barricade, looks like new. Some chrome plated spots are pitted but still cleaned up nicely. The junk ate chrome!

[dondiego]

It proved an excellent wasp killer at my cabin last summer. Spray it on a nest and they jut fall off!

[Hickok]

+1 on Ballistol.

[Hardcast416taylor]

I still use 3-in-1 oil for some minor lubing jobs, have used it for close to 70 years with no complaints as long as it is used as it should be. I also keep a small bottle of oil that is lighter in viscosity than 3-in-1 oil on my work/repair bench, Singer or White sewing machine lube oil. I get it at a sewing machine sales shop. Started using that as a young man and still use it in certain lube applications yet today. For keeping the outsides of my guns rust free I use Break Free. Got a quart size can of Marvel Mystery oil on the bench for light lube uses. Every lube agent that I have and use is for a certain use/purpose.Robert

[mdi]

I use WD 40 on my fishing reels and things that get cleaned regularly. Yep WD 40, after a time, will leave a gooey gunk behind, but I never got that long between cleanings. I have found WD 40 is good for at least 6 months and in some items a year isn't too long....

[SOFMatchstaff]

I use the "WD" for cutting oil on aluminum, works well and smells better than diesel, turning and milling, tapping too. It will free up stuff that's tight or stuck, but only to pave the way for a proper lubricant. NO guns of mine ever see the stuff up close with one exception, the belts on the 34 and 1919......

[blackthorn]

I use Simonize paste wax on the exterior of my rifles and Ed's Red without the acetone for the interior.

[SharpsShooter]

I use it and have been using on my guns and other things for the last 41 years.
I've never had any of these problems reported here.
IMO - complete nonsense, if all the stories here were true I wouldn't have a single gun that was operable and rust free.
WD40 is a bit of a cleaner and crud cutter, and also good for helping things break loose.
I use WD40 for what it is good for, and I use other lubricants for lubricating, other protectants for storage, and penetrating stuff for penetrating.
WD40 has some good all around uses and has served me well over the years.
I especially love it as a crud blaster when cleaning my guns.
I have cans stationed all over the house, garage, and basement.
Call me a WD40 fanboy if you like.

My sentiments exactly. The ideology of just spraying it down and call it clean is the culprit not the product. Used properly, over many many years, I've had not one problem.


SS

[JMax]

WD is great at removing sticky labels, on snow shovels to minimize snow sticking and of course Windex for killing wasps, their nests and stopping ant trails

[Blackwater]

I redid several M-12 Win's that had been in salt water in New Orleans after the hurricane. They were real challenges, but the guy who owned them (local Superior Court judge) was a busy man, and had typically sprayed WD-40 inside the actions to preserve them. In a way, that was fortuitous, because inside, that hard, waxy/concrete stuff that's left when the solvents evaporate away, did a pretty good job of keeping the raceways inside from rusting and pitting. They were literally like trying to get well adhered epoxy out, though. When I was finally done, they worked better than when new, and the judge said they did. He left with a huge smile on his face as he took each one home, but he never really knew how difficult it was to get them that way. It would have been easier to have dealt with some pitting and a bit more rust.

And yes, there ARE much better things out there, and I have WD-40 at home ONLY for its solvent content. There are MUCH better lubricants out there, and mostly, I prefer the synthetics that don't gum up nearly as bad as petro chemicals do. I like waxes for rust resistance. Just what I've found and used, and there's so much stuff out there now that there's no way to try it all.

[dragon813gt]

+1 on Ballistol.

Agree, just wish it wasn't so expensive. And while I've gotten used to the smell. It's still god awful. Any Ballistol rags get placed in an outside trash can immediately.

[Nueces]

After many years of keeping my eyes open, I finally landed a nice S&W New Century in 44 Special. It was new inside, but covered in rust freckles and patches, like psoriasis. That lack of visual appeal greatly lowered the price.

I put it on my desk along with a pump bottle of WD-40 and a tuft of 0000 steel wool. Using small forceps for the details, I gently rubbed it down several times a day, just carefully scratching away at each rust patch, very little pressure, using the steel wool wet with WD-40. By golly, the blue began to show up behind the rust.

I'm sure I tripled the value of the old iron by loving on it in this way. After this cleaning, I went over it with Ed's Red. It's now a beauty. Pics to follow if anyone cares to see them.

[Omega]

I always keep a can or three around. Never used it as a protectant though, mostly to loosen up lightly rusted screws and nuts. Though I have not personally tested it, the WD-40 Specialist is said to be a great protectant. It rated up in the top five in a field test if I remember right.

http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667

http://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Speciali.../dp/B0083V8JP6

[jonp]

Agree, just wish it wasn't so expensive. And while I've gotten used to the smell. It's still god awful. Any Ballistol rags get placed in an outside trash can immediately.

Hush your mouth

[jonp]

After many years of keeping my eyes open, I finally landed a nice S&W New Century in 44 Special. It was new inside, but covered in rust freckles and patches, like psoriasis. That lack of visual appeal greatly lowered the price.

I put it on my desk along with a pump bottle of WD-40 and a tuft of 0000 steel wool. Using small forceps for the details, I gently rubbed it down several times a day, just carefully scratching away at each rust patch, very little pressure, using the steel wool wet with WD-40. By golly, the blue began to show up behind the rust.

I'm sure I tripled the value of the old iron by loving on it in this way. After this cleaning, I went over it with Ed's Red. It's now a beauty. Pics to follow if anyone cares to see them.

I sure do

[jonp]

Like most here ive tried everything under the sun at one time or another.

"Hey, you tried frog lube? They use it on the space station!"

I like ballistol and use it but ive yet to beat plain old Hoppes 9 and Rem Oil for guns. Kroil works great for sticky stuff and swabing a barrel before chore boy