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Thread: .223 loads.....with j words

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy
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    I was playing with some Trail Boss and 55gr Ballistic Tips (.810") with a 1165fps muzzle velocity. They didn't like it.

    The other flat based 55gr bullets did fine at that low velocity.
    The Ballistic Tips did straighten out when I tried them at 2800fps.
    Benny

  2. #22
    Boolit Master newton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FullTang View Post
    4320 will work fine, and shouldn't really limit the accuracy of your gun, but it won't be as efficient or cost-effective as some other powders (I like 2200 and similar powders for this reason.) 1 in 12 rifling is inherently very good for standard 55 gr bullets, and should be even better for lighter bullets, though you'll really want to see about something faster burning if you get into the lighter varmint bullets.
    As for the brass, I really like Lee collet dies for neck-only sizing; if you're only shooting out of one gun (and it's not an autoloader), this will give you great accuracy and much longer case life---no problem getting over 10 reloads per case, and you never have to lube anything.
    Do you mean efficient as in velocity achievable for the amount of powder used? Main goal is 3000 or above, but I cant say that 3200 wouldn't be nice in the future though. I did stop by the LGS and they had some 4198 and CFE223. But I think that I will try 4320 first, and then load some up with H4898 and see how it works.

    I figured with such a small charge anyways the difference of cost is only a few pennies. I guess that would add up if you shot a whole lot, but being the bolt gun it is I doubt I'll run a tremendous amount of ammo through it.

    Main reason is that I have found good loads with it for two other guns so far. Also, I do like to have a full case of powder when I can. I have found that near 100% load density produces consistent shot to shot velocities. Not that lower densities don't work either, I have several that do, so I guess its just one of those personal quirks.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master GabbyM's Avatar
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    First year Sierra came out with the blitz Kings. WE tried them on prairie dogs. They shot great at the range. 200 yards and under at 3,230fps from my 1:12" twist Rem 700. Out in the field hit % at 400 yards was poor. Drop in some 50 grain BK's and start making hits. Didn't make much sense until I figured out ten years later the long bullets were going unstable slightly at long range. Nothing radical but enough to make the shorter 50 grain bullets way more accurate.

    This may be why Hornady made there new 53 grain V-Mas a tad lighter. I did watch a ma at the range trying to shoot the 53 V-Max from a 14 twist 22-250 with very poor accuracy. I think Hornady list a twist rate on the 53 V-Max at 1:12" or at least a catalogue does. I just measured one and it is .829" l. They should run good I my 1:9 and 1:8" AR's.
    “AMERICA WILL NEVER BE DESTROYED FROM THE OUTSIDE. IF WE FALTER AND LOSE OUR FREEDOMS, IT WILL BE BECAUSE WE DESTROYED OURSELVES.” President Abraham Lincoln

  4. #24
    Boolit Master newton's Avatar
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    Just measured the 55 grain I have. Depending on how hard you flatten the SP.....they average .713" - .715"

  5. #25
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    Your bullet out of the 12" twist should be marginally stable at 1000 fps and fully stable at 2500 fps. That means the bullets will fly point forward at 1000 fps but won't necessarily be all that accurate. Accuracy will improve as stability improves up to full stability at 2500 fps. Above that other factors can be a big influence on accuracy such as TOF (Time Of Flight). The faster the bullet gets to the target the less the wind affects it for example.

    Additionally with the medium to medium slow burning powders generally used they have a certain psi range where they burn most efficiently. That efficiency range generally means 3000+ fps with 55 gr bullets in 20"+ .223 barrels.

    Larry Gibson

  6. #26
    Boolit Master newton's Avatar
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    I've been waiting on my brother to bring me some brass he has shot from his gun. I figured known 1X brass would be fine. He has an AR and just buys whatever is cheapest on sale. I'm not sure what brand, I can look tomorrow, but I ran into maybe an issue when I was playing around with a few I already have of his.

    The brass looks to have had a heavy crimp on the mouth. So much so that it almost seems to be starting to split. So it got me to thinking. Cabelas has been running sales on .223 ammo lately. I saw where they have 50 round box of Norma TAC on sale. I've always heard Norma is good brass in some calibers. I can't buy any new brass for the cost of this already loaded Norma.

    So i guess my question is if this would be a good way to get some brass for reloading, or am I fooling myself that Norma is better than others? I don't need a ton of brass, or I would just buy the LC stuff advertised here. Yes/No? Thoughts?

  7. #27
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    I have a Remington Varmint in 223 with 1:12 twist and 24" barrel. It is a tack driver with 50gr VMaxs and either Benchrest or XBR 8208 powders. I've not chronographed them, but the one hole accuracy at 100 and sub MOA out to 300 was good enough for me. Vermin beware!

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by newton View Post
    I've been waiting on my brother to bring me some brass he has shot from his gun. I figured known 1X brass would be fine. He has an AR and just buys whatever is cheapest on sale. I'm not sure what brand, I can look tomorrow, but I ran into maybe an issue when I was playing around with a few I already have of his.

    The brass looks to have had a heavy crimp on the mouth. So much so that it almost seems to be starting to split. So it got me to thinking. Cabelas has been running sales on .223 ammo lately. I saw where they have 50 round box of Norma TAC on sale. I've always heard Norma is good brass in some calibers. I can't buy any new brass for the cost of this already loaded Norma.

    So i guess my question is if this would be a good way to get some brass for reloading, or am I fooling myself that Norma is better than others? I don't need a ton of brass, or I would just buy the LC stuff advertised here. Yes/No? Thoughts?
    New brass is not that expensive. Id buy a small quantity and after the first firing, neck size only and anneal every so often. Use an M die and be done. (assuming we are using a bolt gun)

  9. #29
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    Norma brass is excellent. I use it exclusively for my .17 Remington. I stopped weighing the cases when I had only 2 groups after a couple boxes of 25 were weighed. All were within 2 tenths of a grain. Lapua is hard to beat also, some complaints of soft brass causing loose primer pockets a few years back though. You get what you pay for when buying brass. I would buy 100 new pieces of brass and proceed with a 40-52 grain bullet on top of a load of varget that fills the case just to the neck (verifying that the powder charge is within printed load data from the powder manufacturer) ignited by a standard SR primer of your choice. You have 4320 (very very close burn rate to varget) and 55 grain bullets so use those and check the results. Play with the seating depth of your load that groups the best, and your groups may get even better, it it just depends.

  10. #30
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    I guess I can chime in about now. I use R-P brass. the L-C brass has less case capacity and will boost pressure if you use 223 book data. You will never wear 223 brass out. I shoot Midsouth shooters supply Varmint nightmare extreme 55 gr. HP. Bullets with H-335 powder. I dont miss.

  11. #31
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    And BTW............If you used a ball powder, you can use a powder dumper and still get reliable accurate loads compared to extruded powders. Extruded powders do not meter consistently.

  12. #32
    Boolit Master newton's Avatar
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    Well, looks like their TAC has both a heavy crimp on the mouth and a 3-4 point crimp on the primer. Not that it cannot be removed, but I have to wonder how that heavy mouth crimp will effect brass life.

  13. #33
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    Got a question hopefully someone has experience with. I was in cabelas today and they had Federal American Eagle. Both .223 and 5.56. The 5.56 is stamped LC, and the .223 FC with 5 dots. The address on the package is the same for both, packages look the same.

    Ive heard that FC is no good. But the people who say that usually talk about stuff with different head stamps. The reason I ask is its marked down in the store but it's not worth it if I only get a few loads before primer pockets loosen too much.

    Id just buy once fired, but low quantities are not cost effective and then I have to do all the brass prep. It's worth it to me to spend a little more for almost ready to load brass. I highly doubt that I will shoot enough to need a big brass pile. I just want to work up some good shooting loads. Figured more uniform brass would be the ticket.

  14. #34
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    Concerning the cases since Federal makes both odds are the cases are the same.......only the head stamp has been changed to ID the different loads.

    Larry Gibson

  15. #35
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    All ammo manufactured at Lake City is made to US Gov't specs. Federal Cartridge manufactures its own commercial & LE ammo to its proprietory specs at its own plant(s) located IIRC at Anoka MN. I believe the confusion comes from that both of them belong to the ATK system.

  16. #36
    Boolit Master newton's Avatar
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    Found out today the gun is a shooter with factory 55 grain soft points. Now I just need to figure out how to adjust the trigger. Not exactly sure how old the gun is, but I don't see any way of adjusting it and the manual talks about only Remington adjusting it.

  17. #37
    Boolit Master GabbyM's Avatar
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    http://www.varminthunters.com/tech/crisp.html
    REMINGTON CRISP: A RECIPE
    by Thomas M.Ferruzza

    If it's an older Remington with the killer trigger. Here are the best instructions I've found. If you get carried away with taking out all the creep you'll end up with an AD. I've adjusted two of my triggers to this method. Only thing I could ever advise anyone to do is buy a good trigger. But I've not.

    PS
    I’d guess the triggers on mine ended up 2 to 3 pounds with a slight creep. Not a “break like a glass rod” trigger. I have a nice 1.2 lb final two stage trigger on my AR-15. But it cost well over $200. My CZ-527 came with a great double set trigger.
    Last edited by GabbyM; 12-12-2015 at 08:55 PM. Reason: PS
    “AMERICA WILL NEVER BE DESTROYED FROM THE OUTSIDE. IF WE FALTER AND LOSE OUR FREEDOMS, IT WILL BE BECAUSE WE DESTROYED OURSELVES.” President Abraham Lincoln

  18. #38
    Boolit Master newton's Avatar
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    Thanks. I found another one that adjusts all three screws, but your link sounds easier. The pull is just very hard. I still managed a decent group, but I can tell that there is plenty of room for improvement without being too light.

    I just know from experience with other good trigger guns that it can make a world of difference. My inline muzzleloader has almost as good of a trigger as my double set triggers on other muzzleloaders I have. Safe but very crisp.

  19. #39
    Boolit Master GabbyM's Avatar
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    You can have a one pond trigger be safe. But generally not a Remington 700 trigger. I don't know about the new ones. The issue is they can go off when you close the bolt. Old commercial Mausers can do that too. With any Rem 700 with stock trigger. You must be extremely careful of your muzzle control when cycling the bolt. They have a reputation for AD. If you already know this fine then it's here for others to read. FWIW I blasted my air compressor with a 243 Win inside my garage one night. My wife was to say the least extremely unimpressed. My two young children were just feet away on the other side of the interior wall. Rifle was angled toward the outside wall. Was about a $250 compressor when I bought it in the 1970's. Incident was about 25 years ago. Trigger was pulling at about two pounds. Just not enough over travel. I'd never laid a finger on the thing and bought it new. If you can't feel a little creep in a stock Remington trigger it's not safe. Actually any rifle with nothing but a trigger block safety is never in safe mode with a round chambered. Keep them pointed in a safe direction.

    the Zimbabwe army back decades ago was having a serious issue with AD's killing solders comrades and CO's. They implemented the death penalty to any solder who hit a man with an AD. Rate fell to near zero. Sometimes it just takes some motivation. FN Fals don't have what you'd call a hair trigger by any measure.

    I like the Gisselle in my AR-15. Cost less than the air compressor.
    “AMERICA WILL NEVER BE DESTROYED FROM THE OUTSIDE. IF WE FALTER AND LOSE OUR FREEDOMS, IT WILL BE BECAUSE WE DESTROYED OURSELVES.” President Abraham Lincoln

  20. #40
    Boolit Master newton's Avatar
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    I had heard, but there can never be enough warnings given. Thanks for sharing your story. I don't want a hair trigger, but I do want this one better. My sons Rossi is better than this gun.

    What I think the best thing to do, and what I am going to spend a lot of time doing, is running it through every kind of situation I can think of with a dummy round to see if it discharges.

    i don't have any way to measure the pull, I'm just going to work on it till it feels right and is safe. I doubt I'll get down to the 2lb range though. Probably just get it to an acceptable level and save up for an aftermarket.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check