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Thread: Flash hole deburring ?

  1. #21
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    georgerkahn's Avatar
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    I use a dedicated tool made and purveyed by Sinclair exclusively for deburring flash holes. A second step I do is uniform the flash hole size -- I find the size variation from lot to lot, and brand to brand of same caliber brass amazing! Lastly, I use a tool called a "crocogater" which, with a few quick twists of the wrist, further uniforms pocket depth. 'Specially with gas guns, that the primer *IS* seated below rim is imperative! Like others posting, I too have not done a "no" versus primer-pocket-cleaned comparison vis accuracy results. But, I do feel better about my loads with the flash hole deburred, a uniform hole size, and pocket size to ensure below-rim seating.
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  2. #22
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    I have a deburring and uniforming tool but is seldom gets used unless I spot an unusual flash hole. I'll occasionally find one with a lot of burrs or an excessively small flash hole. Then the tool gets used.
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  3. #23
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    Glad I found this thread before I stirred up another. Just procured an interest in this area and wanted to find out if anyone had some concrete data on the "is it worth it" area. I mainly wanted to get some input on actually chamfering the head side of the flash hole. I watched a YT video of a fellow (won't mention any names, and I highly respect his reloading skills) who actually deburrs inside the case's flash hole as well as the outside. In reading one of the comments left for his video, it was said to not mess with the burrs since they cause a more "turbulent vortex". It surprised that he didn't mention any cautionary measures about "SAAMI" specs (hole diameter).

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  4. #24
    Boolit Man QuackAttack24's Avatar
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    I've always inside reamed my necks and turned the outside necks, but only recently started to de-burr all of my benchrest rifle cases. I use the 21st century flash hole de-burring tool. I started doing it recently in search of better accuracy, and it has clearly helped. I'm a believer now.
    What could possibly go wrong?

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by QuackAttack24 View Post
    I've always inside reamed my necks and turned the outside necks, but only recently started to de-burr all of my benchrest rifle cases. I use the 21st century flash hole de-burring tool. I started doing it recently in search of better accuracy, and it has clearly helped. I'm a believer now.
    Great, I guess it’s a mind thing or I’m paranoid about making holes too big. I have the Sinclair International Gen 2 (cone) and it seats at case bottom so no fear of going too deep. It just ever so slightly reams flash hole out but not more than .075 which I think is high for small but low for large.


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  6. #26
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    Lately I've been using a K&M .082 Flash Hole Reamer with a fairly flat base, I have older K&M Flash Hole Reamer that is .080 with just a touch of a cone inside. K&M lists several diameters, some for the small holes in the PPC brass. I usually only ream rifle though I will do pistol brass used for hunting or self-defense.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master pertnear's Avatar
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    I de-burr flash holes on my rifle loads. Personally, I doubt that it makes any practical difference in the ammo. But you know, it can't hurt....
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  8. #28
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    I've been deburring flash holes and uniforming primer pockets since the 90's.
    Started with my bench rest rifles and evolved into doing all my rifle ammo, with the exception of what I consider blasting ammo, or mixed head stamp FMJ loadings.

    Last brass I processed was a good size bunch of 2015 LC LR 7.62 Nato. Which surprised me as some of the best, most uniform 308 brass I've ever done before. I hardly produced a chip with either operation and after trimming, every single brass weighed within 2/10's of a grain !!!

  9. #29
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    all military case primer pockets should be deburred or swaged to remove the staking crimps that prevent the primer backing out and jamming in a MG.

  10. #30
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    What I found more so, is a more consistent accuracy, the shots off call were a lot fewer. over all accuracy did improve some, but the consistency improvement at 300 on out was a big benefit

  11. #31
    Boolit Master Randy Bohannon's Avatar
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    After building high performance engines with my Dad and Brothers ,Dad always made us polish intake ports ,valve seats, tops of pistons polished to 600 grit. It was all about flame propagation with no interruptions .Makes sense to remove obstructions that inhibit flame propagation, I do every piece of brass I use using the Lyman tool after trimming to length to ensure consistent depth.

  12. #32
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    JSnover's Avatar
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    I deburr mine. I like the idea of a nice uniform flame coming straight through the hole, rather than the sloppy offset type like you might get with a torch tip that's damaged or dirty.
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  13. #33
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    I do all of my rifle brass and pistol brass if the flash holes look bad. I don't know it it helps anything or not but it can't hardly hurt and its a "one and done" deal.

  14. #34
    Boolit Buddy Dom's Avatar
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    I have tried shooting brass that was deburred & not deburred. If there was a difference I can't tell it. I'm not a competitive shooter, a hunter. I get consistent accuracy from my reloads as the case comes. I also don't sort by weight. A receint group shot by my Savage 260 Rem & Badlands Precision 6.5 125gr. Rem brass as it comes out of the bag at random. No sorting, no deburring. Three shots at 110yds.Attachment 286044 This group was shot yesterday after sighting in. Ammo was loaded with Lee brand dies with a "collet" neck sizer. Just about zero run out. I see this as being far more important than deburring.
    Last edited by Dom; 07-14-2021 at 11:08 AM.

  15. #35
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    I do my rifle brass one time when I first get them.
    I use the Lyman tool also.

    I'm not sure what difference it makes, but I put it in the category of 'every little bit helps'.
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  16. #36
    Boolit Man QuackAttack24's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dom View Post
    I have tried shooting brass that was deburred & not deburred. If there was a difference I can't tell it. I'm not a competitive shooter, a hunter. I get consistent accuracy from my reloads as the case comes. I also don't sort by weight. A receint group shot by my Savage 260 Rem & Badlands Precision 6.5 125gr. Rem brass as it comes out of the bag at random. No sorting, no deburring. Three shots at 110yds.Attachment 286044 This group was shot yesterday after sighting in. Ammo was loaded with Lee brand dies with a "collet" neck sizer. Just about zero run out. I see this as being far more important than deburring.
    For me it has seemed to eliminate the flyer that turns your .4" group into a .9" group. I always shoot 5 shot groups, and have stacks of targets with 4 shots inside a half inch, but the 5th one an inch away. Since paying closer attention to all aspects of brass prep, including but not limited to flash hold de-burring, I've noticed that those 1 of 5 flyers are happening less frequently. A couple weeks ago got the first ever 5 shot sub .5MOA group from my wife's Savage 260 Rem. at 100 yards. Which step in the process is more important? Hard to tell for certain without more detailed study, modifying one variable at a time. Wish I had that much time.
    Last edited by QuackAttack24; 07-14-2021 at 01:08 PM.
    What could possibly go wrong?

  17. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by toot View Post
    all military case primer pockets should be deburred or swaged to remove the staking crimps that prevent the primer backing out and jamming in a MG.
    One nice thing about the LC LR cases is their from precision match ammo, not MG fodder.
    They dont have primer crimps to deal with,, nor are they blown out oversize from MG chambers or loose head space.

  18. #38
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  19. #39
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    Our old range used to host the Crawfish Invintational benchrest match once a year. Best time to buy patches,bore brushes and solvents. Watching a lot of the top benchrest shooters in the country prep their brass and it kinds rubbed off. So all my rifle brass gets match prepped. Pistol brass gets trimmed and primer flash holes gets deburred. Frank

  20. #40
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    I started reloading my 222 Remington in 1970. It was a Remington 788, cheap $100 rifle. I took it home put on a timminy trigger, glass bedded action and free floated the barrel. Reloading I wanted the best accuracy so debarred all the flash holes. I got in the habit early and just kept it up. I use the Lyman tool Tim

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check