How tight should a prb be?

[johnson1942]

i tried silk when the last of the mohicans movie had it in it. what a bust, couldnt hit anything. linen or hemp, tight woven is the best. can reuse those.while i was passing by this post i thought of this. had a 44 cal 1/28 twist side lock. one day i put 70 grains down the barrel and a 60 thousands poly wad behind it. then i popped a .445 round ball down. started easy and really sealed the bore. grooves are 5 thousands deep. never shot beyond 50 yards but it cut center every time and never ever leaded the bore. i was surprised but a bare roundball shot very very well. i think the 5 thousands deep grooves helped. anybody else ever shoot bare roundballs as good as patched one? in a rifle?

[kens]

What twist rate is your barrel?
You did mention it is a CVA, and I am not aware of CVA making a rifle in a slow round ball twist? Can you determine the twist?
I have .45 cal Douglas barrel and I use a .451 ball with pillow ticking patch.
For hunting I use crisco lube, with a dry patch over powder. When hunting I don't figure I'll be needing any 3rd nor 4th shots at a deer so I don't worry much about cleaning the bore in the field.
I swab the bore to put out any embers before reloading.

[triggerhappy243]

Found this on the internet somewhere. From what I've experienced - it holds true

Attachment 148750

THIS IS AN EXCELLENT ARTICLE. Will see if i can remember where I found it.

[triggerhappy243]

Refer to response including Accuracy Pdf on 1st page

Attachment 149572Attachment 149573Attachment 149574

You did not mention what the specs were for your barrel to achieve such a fine group.

[bigted]

Attachment 149859Attachment 149860My only muzzle loading rifle these days is an original Pennsylvania half-stock from about 1850 to 1870 or so. Rather an odd caliber (0.388 bore, 0.418 groove diameters, pretty deep rifling compared to some others). Attached photos show the rifle and a paper plate target showing 10 shots at 100 yards from a rest.

Getting by using .375" round balls and patches cut from an old cotton flannel shirt, lubed by dampening with cooking oil (Crisco, canola, whatever you have on hand will work), 40 grains Fffg, #11 cap. Takes a ball starter to get the patched ball into the bore, then a short starter, followed by the ramrod to seat (requires less pressure as the patched ball gets about 8" into the bore, leading me to think the muzzle end may be choked down a bit, or maybe just a bit more erosion deeper into the bore). After about a dozen shots it is time to brush and swab the bore using solvent and patches, then pop a cap or two before loading and shooting again.

For those who are interested in the old originals, mine has a 29.5" octagon-to-round barrel, Golcher lock, double set triggers, walnut stock with cheekrest, pewter nose piece cast in place, and German silver stock mountings (butt plate, patch box, trigger guard, escutcheons, thimbles, wedge). I am just tickled to be able to keep it shooting!

my goodness that is a fine looking rifle you have there. original you say? very nice and I applaud you for keeping it running and looking so nice. does it have any name or builder on the barrel?

I have already sounded off on my thinking on the tightness issue. I am still of the opinion that to have to hammer or use much force is not an avenue I desire to run down shooting these fun rifles. if I can hit skeet birdies at 40 or 50 yards with my front stuffers then I am very happy. I can do this with all my rifles and never have need for much better. there is a 45 TC Hawken that does very much better then that tho and my 54 Renegade that I have polished the bore will also do much better then the birdies as well. with this kinda accuracy I do not subscribe to the very tight patching for these round balls. it just keeps the fun at bay for me.

also I can shoot for a very long time loading them a little loser as well. cant imagine the frontiersmen having to mess round with a ball starter not hammerin in a PRB to feed the family or protect em from idjits.

very nice rifle tho and I think it deserves a post of its own for us to ohh and aww over and get more info on the dandy from yesteryear.

[HPT]

You did not mention what the specs were for your barrel to achieve such a fine group.

The barrel is a Colerain .54 cal - the twist is advertised to be 1:56 and the grooves are advertised to be .016 deep with a radius bottom shape.

I can't say the results wouldn't be just as good with a different brand barrel.

My thought is that the tight fit ensures that the ball is going to spin. It may seem inconvenient to wipe between shots & have to use a hammer to get it started - but I'd trade some confidence that I'm not going to need a second shot for worrying how much hassle it is to reload

Go to youtube and look for a video called "loading tite" and you'll see that loading is not as difficult as it sounds

hope the link below works

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WV0qlOrMSZ0

[Plastikosmd]

I have to use a hammer and short starter and Teflon patchs, for slugs a mechanical starter.
it does work though, best with my .62

here just changing load by 5 grains in another gun, all at 100, respectable, 5 shot groups


10 shot with sighter



even a flinter, a 52

[HPT]

WOW!!!!!!!! Please share your advice! This is fantastic!

[Plastikosmd]

All of this is with aperture sights. A lot of practice and load workup. Swab between shots, altering ball size and patch combo time and time again until I hit the right combination. Powder, primers, load pressure, patch and ball all play a role

[MC One Shot]

You have excellent eyes in addition to a shooter.....

[Plastikosmd]

I credit the custom rifles. I'm Getting old, at 18 I had 20/12, now maybe 20/20...time marches on!