Case stuck in revolver barrel

[RG1911]

I have one that you may not have seen before. The very short story is that a .357 case separated near the head and there's about .75" of case firmly stuck in the barrel of my .357 Old Model Ruger Blackhawk. Sort of an unwanted nickel-plated-brass forcing cone/barrel liner.

The freezing method didn't work.

The only idea I have that doesn't involve removing the barrel (I don't have the knowledge or tools) is a plug (brass would be good) that is exactly land diameter that can be tapped against the mouth of the case that is showing and that might be able to push it out.

I don't have a suitable plug or a lathe.

Possibly a carefully fitting tap? But certainly don't want to thread the bore.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Richard

[DougGuy]

Drive a boolit down the barrel from the muzzle with a brass or aluminum rod, not wood. When the boolit engages the rifling, it should push the case out as you force it through.

[jcren]

Yup. That otta do it

[williamwaco]

I have had good luck with penetrating oil and an oversize bronze brush

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Are you able to remove the cylinder from the frame?

[Petrol & Powder]

I see no reason to remove the barrel. A brass squib rod with a square cut end would probable work. Because the brass casing is relatively soft, you could probably use a pointed tool to engage it and pop it out from the side but I'd be cautious about prying against the edge of the forcing cone. If it extends past the forcing cone a regular steel cleaning rod would probably be able to catch the forward edge and push it out.
I had a similar experience, albeit with a smaller section of 9mm brass, and was able to push it out with a steel rod.

If the separated section is locking the cylinder shut, I would try forcing the cylinder out of the frame (after removing the center pin) by placing the revolver on a flat, soft surface (carpet) and applying downward pressure.

[RG1911]

I did get the cylinder out by tapping it (gently) with a nylon-face hammer. The case had remained in the mouth of the cylinder just a small amount, and the case crumpled sufficiently there to let me remove the cylinder.

I'll see if the steel cleaning rod method budges it. Will soak the case with Kroil for a day or so.

Many thanks for all the tips.

Cheers,
Richard

[LAGS]

Cast the Barrel back end with Cerosafe like you were making a Forcing cone casting.
It should drive back out with a Brass rod.
I have had to do that many a time on seperated cases in rifles.

[MtGun44]

Drive a jbullet down the barrel, it will definitely catch the case and push it out.
Lube the barrel and case well, drive base first, you want a sharp corner to grab
the case. Us the largest rod you can find, steel or brass, NOT WOOD. Start bullet
into barrel with a brass hammer, barrel in a vise, of course with soft jaws.

Bill

[Ballistics in Scotland]

Various good ideas have been suggested. It is worth taking a brass rod slightly smaller than groove diameter, ideally 11/32in. if you can get it. File the end too a really sharp edge, and then split it with a hacksaw to a depth of about an inch. Splay the ends out as wide as you can spring into the barrel, like a Martini-Henry breechblock pin to make sure it contacts the end of the case.

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Products/1169900.htm

Alternatively if you file a smaller hard brass rod to a round or triangular point, you may be able to get it between the case and the bore from the rear, and buckle the case into a D-shape with the straight side concave. That ought to reduce it enough to come out.

[bangerjim]

Hope you get it out.

Once you do get it out, buy a "max" gauge to measure your loads! I have one for every cal I load for. Saves time, embarrassment, temper tantrums at the range! ALL my loads work every time now.

banger

[Der Gebirgsjager]

It's good that you got the cylinder out. In doing so you must have crumpled up the end of the piece of case somewhat, as brass is fairly soft.(?)(?)
Are you able to move a bit of it away from the wall of the forcing cone some more with a brass punch and small hammer? Then maybe you could get ahold of it with some needle nose pliers and just jerk it out. (?)

[RG1911]

Hope you get it out.

Once you do get it out, buy a "max" gauge to measure your loads! I have one for every cal I load for. Saves time, embarrassment, temper tantrums at the range! ALL my loads work every time now.

banger

Banger,

This one was simply a bad case that separated. I had bought a large batch of theoretically once-fired .357 brass. I'd say this one had been fired more often. Unfortunately, no external warning signs.

Cheers,
Richard

[RG1911]

Are you able to move a bit of it away from the wall of the forcing cone some more with a brass punch and small hammer? Then maybe you could get ahold of it with some needle nose pliers and just jerk it out. (?)

Thank you. I tried that with no success. I'll have to go with a more aggressive method.

Cheers,
Richard

[Rattlesnake Charlie]

Penetrating oil, penetrating oil, penetrating oil.

Soak it up good first BEFORE driving the bullet down the barrel from the muzzle.

Use a HEAVY hammer for driving the bullet down the barrel. Light hammers tend to cause the bullet to expand. LARGE diameter punch, even if it is just a stub at the bullet.

Wrap all steel tools with masking tape so they do not contact the bore when things do not go precisely as planned.

Lubricate it all generously. Just do it.

[bangerjim]

Banger,

This one was simply a bad case that separated. I had bought a large batch of theoretically once-fired .357 brass. I'd say this one had been fired more often. Unfortunately, no external warning signs.

Cheers,
Richard

That a bummer. I had a couple do that for me, but they came out easily. The max gauge is an excellent inexpensive gauge to insure (normal) loading, cycling, ejection of rounds. After having several 9's, 40's, and 38SPL's get stuck in either the cylinder or chamber at the range (embarrassing, since I was that guy that casts & loads all his ammo....Koooool!) on several trips, I bought a gauge for each of the cals I use. Sure better and faster than using the old "plop" barrel chamber test with your gun!

And knowing your case was a bit larger than normal might have prevented getting the thing stuck in there?!?!? Just food for thought. And another excuse to spend more $$ on gun stuff!!!!

Glad you got 'er dun!

banger

[Green Monster]

Cast the Barrel back end with Cerosafe like you were making a Forcing cone casting.
It should drive back out with a Brass rod.
I have had to do that many a time on seperated cases in rifles.

^ that. Hit up youtube there is a video on midway usa where he does that exact thing. Or ram an oversized boolit down the barrel like you were sluggin the bore

[leadman]

A paper clip unbent and run in the inside of the case where the base meets the sides can normally indicate a case ready to separate. There will be a thinner area of brass if the case is getting ready to go.
My RCBS Casemaster can actually measure how much the brass has thinned in this spot.
If the other methods fail to remove the brass try plugging off the end and pouring some lead down the barrel into the brass and then let it cool. you should then be able to drive it out.

[RG1911]

My 'smith had a rod that just barely slid down the bore, and was able to knock out the case. He did say it was very stuck, even after being soaked in Kroil. The remains of the case clearly show rifling.

Thank you for all the good suggestions.

Cheers,
Richard

[Larry Gibson]

Cast the Barrel back end with Cerosafe like you were making a Forcing cone casting.
It should drive back out with a Brass rod.
I have had to do that many a time on seperated cases in rifles.

+1....this is the way to do it w/o any potential damage to the barrel.

Larry Gibson