Lee Mould Question

[Mike W1]

Bought one recently which I am determined to learn how to use. Tried them years ago and didn't like em'. DC mould BTW.

Can't remember, but did they always come without a set screw to retain the sprue plate bolt/screw?'

Frankly I don't think left hand threads are a very good solution. Added a set screw today!

[country gent]

Well since the sprue plates movement is back and forth screw rotation isnt going to make alot of diffrence other than which direction is tighting and loosening it. Set screw is a needed modification. I have used lee moulds in the past and gotten good results but much perfer Brass or steel moulds.

[Mike W1]

All I've used the thing for so far is to cast some slug's of a couple different alloys so I could check the BHN. Didn't dawn on me right off that there wasn't a retaining set screw and next thing I knew that sprue plate dang near came off. I've stuck with Lyman moulds for YEARS and have had good luck with them. Wanted a larger bullet end to check hardness on and the Lee was about what I'd pay for another set of Lyman handles. And incidentally I don't like Lyman's newer style handles near as well as the older ones.

[LAGS]

I have done Upgrades to Lee molds and they work very well, especially for the price.
Like on the two cavity.
I drill a hole from the top about 3/32 diameter and push out the pin that holds the blocks to the handles with a punch.
Then I true up the slot on the blocks and the handles, then add a .005 " brass shim to get the blocks to fit better to the handles.
They align way better when closing with this modification.
I also drill and tap set screws to retain the Sprue Pivot screw.
With the newer style, I can remove the Pin with an allen wrench on most of them.
But some dont want to come out unless you drill thru the top of the block and press them out.
Some I even converted to a Set Screw handle attachment to replace the pressed in pins.

[Mike W1]

I have done Upgrades to Lee molds and they work very well, especially for the price.
Like on the two cavity.
I drill a hole from the top about 3/32 diameter and push out the pin that holds the blocks to the handles with a punch.
Then I true up the slot on the blocks and the handles, then add a .005 " brass shim to get the blocks to fit better to the handles.
They align way better when closing with this modification.
I also drill and tap set screws to retain the Sprue Pivot screw.
With the newer style, I can remove the Pin with an allen wrench on most of them.
But some dont want to come out unless you drill thru the top of the block and press them out.
Some I even converted to a Set Screw handle attachment to replace the pressed in pins.

Gonna save your post and maybe give it a try. Was going to take the handle pins out but those allan screws seemed pretty stubborn so go by without doing it. Sounds like a good idea the way you do it.