Best way to pull 45auto?

[steelhorse]

I used one of those RCBS plastic looking hammer. works very well for all my loads, 45 ACP, 9, 6.5x55 Swed, 7.5x55 Swiss, 7.62x39..I have pulled large number of those Cals. listed above.

[Safeshot]

For the lead bulleted ammo, run the loaded round into a .45 Auto sizing die with the de-capping pin and assembly removed. If the lead bulleted round is loaded with a lead bullet larger than .452 inch dia. you can use a .45 Auto Lee factory crimp die (with the carbide sizing ring) with the crimping ring and threaded plug removed, to size the loaded round "down". This will size the case and lead bullet down "some". the brass case will "spring back" a small amount. In either case the lead bullet will not be as "tight" and will be easier to pull by any method. The nippers, large wire cutters or a collet (if there is enough bullet to "grab") or the inertia puller will all be much easier to use to pull the lead bullet. For any military rounds, first seat the bullet about .010" to .020" deeper in the case to "break the bond" of any bullet sealer. (This may also be helpful on some commercial .45 ammo.) This will make the jacketed bullets easier to pull also. If you do not want to reuse the jacketed bullets, then the sizing the jacketed rounds rounds "down" approach will also work for them and make them easier to pull.

[rbuck351]

oldfart1956
I like your thinking and it will work on a couple of my presses. It's a no go on my go to press, the Lyman AA. I have a RCBS collet puller as well but it doesn't work well on bullets with no straight part sticking out of the case. Yeah, a shell holder is far better than the cheesy three piece thing that comes with the inertia pullers.

[beagle]

I've pulled many thousands of auto pistol ammo both cast and FMJ using this method and a kinetic hammer afterwards. A section of log works well as an "anvil" and a chain saw, easily cuts it to height. Instead of the collets, use an RCBS shell holder to hold the bullet in place.

The sizing need to include only the length of the seated bullet.

After sizing, usually a fairly light tap unseats the bullet./beagle

QUOTE=Safeshot;3377167]For the lead bulleted ammo, run the loaded round into a .45 Auto sizing die with the de-capping pin and assembly removed. If the lead bulleted round is loaded with a lead bullet larger than .452 inch dia. you can use a .45 Auto Lee factory crimp die (with the carbide sizing ring) with the crimping ring and threaded plug removed, to size the loaded round "down". This will size the case and lead bullet down "some". the brass case will "spring back" a small amount. In either case the lead bullet will not be as "tight" and will be easier to pull by any method. The nippers, large wire cutters or a collet (if there is enough bullet to "grab") or the inertia puller will all be much easier to use to pull the lead bullet. For any military rounds, first seat the bullet about .010" to .020" deeper in the case to "break the bond" of any bullet sealer. (This may also be helpful on some commercial .45 ammo.) This will make the jacketed bullets easier to pull also. If you do not want to reuse the jacketed bullets, then the sizing the jacketed rounds rounds "down" approach will also work for them and make them easier to pull.[/QUOTE]