Upgrading my Lubesizer...need advice.

[novalty]

Well after processing about 700 cast 9mm bullets on my trusty RCBS LAM2, my arthritis is telling me that it might be time to switch to the Magma Star Sizer. Don't get me wrong the LAM2 has been and is a great sizer, but being only 35 years old with Rheumatoid Arthritis, and knowing it isn't going to get better for me--it seems like a good time to make the change.

Looking to get some advice from the Star sizer experts on purchasing. Looks like I would have to purchase the sizer new direct through Magma Engineering. I will need sizing .358 and .452 sizing dies, and it looks like a top punch--all my bullets are plain base. I won't be doing any large volume, so I wouldn't need a bullet feeder, and not sure that I would need a air kit. Any advice/tips for getting set up would be greatly appreciated.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

you mention "Rheumatoid Arthritis"
the one and only upgrade I did on my Star, was a longer handle, custom made by Lathesmith...you are probably gonna buy dies from him anyway
That longer handle does increase motion range, if your Rheumatoid Arthritis will be effected by that, but it's increased leverage sure does reduce the pressure needed to push the boolit through the die.

ALSO, the obvious, unlike the RCBS or Lyman, the Star requires NO effort to raise the handle ...that should be good for your Rheumatoid Arthritis condition.

[novalty]

Thanks JonB,

I'll check out the handle from Lathesmith. The lifting motion adds to the fatigue I get using the LAM2.

Do you know if Magma has a long wait time on orders for new sizers?

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I don't know the current lead time. It seems a few months ago, someone mentioned they waited 4 weeks IIRC.

Link to Lathesmith handle
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...oller-L-handle

[dragon813gt]

The air kit is nice because it keeps constant pressure on the reservoir. Since you have arthritis I would seriously consider making it work w/ pneumatics. There is a thread here about it. I think it was around $300 for all the parts last time I looked. But why pull and handle when an air compressor and foot pedal can do all the work for you. It's the main reason I bought a Star.

[ReloaderFred]

One suggestion is to be sure and get the "shovel handle" for your sizer. I've got one that I switch between my 6 different Star sizers, since I find the standard wooden knob handle a pain in the hand to use.

For your volume, you don't really need the bullet feeder. I've got them mounted on 4 of my machines, but for smaller runs, I find it almost as fast to just feed the bullets in by hand, depending on the size of bullet you're going to be sizing.

You can also get by without the air system, again if you're going to be doing small runs of only a few hundred at a time. While it's nice to have, it's really not necessary, as long as you get the temperature right on the hard lubes.

You didn't mention which lube you're going to be using. If it's a hard lube, then you'll need a heater. I've got both the Lyman and Magma heaters and I much prefer the Magma version. I don't have PID's on any of my machines, but I don't really find that a problem. Just for reference, I also own a Magma Lube Master commercial sizer, and it has a collator, heater and PID, but it sizes thousands of rounds per hour and uses the larger lube sticks (2" x 6").

You can get by with one top punch for both calibers of the bullets you mentioned, but personally I prefer a larger punch for the .452" bullets, but that's just me. And that only applies to my Star machines, since I only use one punch on the Lube Master for both .358" and .452" diameter bullets and it works just fine.

If your bullets only have one lube groove, you can order your sizing dies from Lathe Smith with just one row of holes. I suggest having the holes in the position of the bottom row on the standard Star dies, since that allows just one bullet to be held in the die at a time. If you have them higher, smaller bullets will have two bullets in the die at a time. While that's not a problem, I just find it distracting when I'm running them and maybe adjusting temperature and pressure.

Hope this helps.

Fred

[MarkP]

Removing the plunger to add more lube can be difficult; I almost knocked my teeth out a few weeks ago. I used the cap to screw the plunger up to the last threads on the plunger rod the plastic plunger is still about a 1/4" or so inside of the reservoir tube. I was lifting so hard I began picking my bench up, so I placed chest against the edge of the bench to prevent it from lifting up and gave a firm tug. It was not budging so I pulled up ward as hard as I could and it suddenly released with the pressure rod striking me on the lip. Split my lip opene inside and out. The reservoir was filled with BAC lube, pretty tackey stuff. I should have feathered a torch to melt the lube but it was upstairs in my garage 30 seconds away.

Mount your sizer on a steel or aluminum plate, drill and tap a hole (5/8-11 or 5/8-18) that is cocentric with the die bore. Weld a rod to the head of a bolt that fits the tapped hole, (make a Tee wrench handle) use the bolt to remove the dies from your press with minimal effort. Some heat adds in die removal as well.

[novalty]

Thanks for the detailed info ReloaderFred. For lube I have been using a Randy Rat's TAC1, which has worked fine in my LAM2. Does it matter on the Magma if the lube sticks are hollow or solid? From the video I watched it doesn't look like it matters.

The bullets I am casting do only have one lube groove, so I will probably be checking with Lathesmith to see what configuration would work best on the dies. My molds are all from Mihec: 359-125, 452-200, and HG-68 clone. Where they are all plain base, guessing I might be able to get away with 1 top punch.

[skeettx]

I added a Bimba air cylinder to mine to push the ram down and return it up,
and a hand knob so I have positive control.
Mike

[ReloaderFred]

MarkP,

If you'll lube the seal before putting it back in the lube reservoir, it will come out easily the next time you need to refill it. I use Stos, but any quality grease will work. Just don't use too much, only enough to lube the skirt of the seal. I dotted my forehead before learning this little trick.

novalty,

I haven't used Randy's lubes, since I bulk pack my bullets and need a hard lube. I use Magma's lubes for most of what I do, and some specialty lubes for special bullets. I also have Lyman, RCBS and Saeco machines for the small runs of those specialty bullets, each with a different type of lube.

I've used hollow tubes in my Stars in the past. Once in awhile you might get an air bubble trapped inside the reservoir that can cause a little trouble until it works it's way out (pops the bullet out of the sizer die). You should also be able to order solid sticks for use in the Star machines, though. Most vendors will offer both.

Hope this helps.

Fred

[GLL]

As JonB indicated make sure you have Chris (Lathesmith) fabricate your dies and punches !

Since most of my .38 Special and .44 Special bullets are single lube groove designs I have him make my dies single row (no lead shot required).
I have a second set made for double row versions.


Jerry

[novalty]

Thanks for all the advice gentleman!

[Landshark9025]

I just got a Star. Amazing machine. My dies were pretty stiff at first but after talking with Lathesmith, he suggested I run a few boolits coated with Flitz through them. I did one and it worked like a champ. Need to do the other one. See thread "pending charge on my charge card"

Here's what I found out:
1. I use home made 40/60 Lithi-Bee (40% Lithium grease). When filling, be VERY CAREFUL not to overfill or get any above the bleed hole. If you do, when you put the plunger in, it will be on the wall about six feet away. Naturally, if you are using stick lubes, this isn't an issue.
2. Mount it solid. You may/may not need a heater. Depends on the lube, but I believe the one for your LAM will work.
3. I recommend getting the dies AND top punches from Lathesmith. If you can afford it, get a separate punch and lock ring for each die. That way, once you set it, you never have to change it. Just screw one out and the next one in. You would need a different top punch/lock ring for each boolit profile. Even if they are the same caliber. So if you are doing a SWC that has two lube grooves and a RF that has one, or if they are different heights, etc.
This is not "required", but recommended. Alternately, once you get it set, you can just measure and write it down.
4. Most dies come with three sets of holes. You just block the ones you don't need with some lead shot. If you don't have one, a flat drift punch is handy for this. You will need a #43 or a 1/16" drill bit and some patience to get them out when you change. Not a big deal at all. With your arthritis, you may need a bit holder. This is something you will do by hand. Just spin the bit a few dozen to a couple hundred revolutions by hand and drill them out. I did it with a 1/16" drill bit and my fingers. Not fun, but it worked. Check out the videos on the Magma site.
5. For a two lube groove boolit, block the bottom row. For a one lube groove, block the bottom and top.
6. When you use it, count to ten and on the 11th one run a previously run boolit through. Keeps things smooth plus I find the counting speeds things up.
7. Current wait time is about 3 weeks. I got mine in two.
8. The shovel handle is a good idea, but I like the "L" kind that Lathesmith has. I'll likely get one of his. I think they just look nicer.

You will love it.

[novalty]

Thanks for all the additional info. Get some items together to sell first before I make the purchase. Guess I'll have to wait until I get the new sizer before I figure out what I need to change on my bench. Hopefully it won't take me too long to raise the funds.

[KAYDADOG]

A lot of good feedback and information. I would invest in the bullet feeder. It just makes it 100% easier to fill the feeding tube than placing each bullet in place. I actually made three 8/tube collators for calibers up to 0.500". They will hold over 200 bullets each.
I also retrofitted handle. Made an aluminum adapter to fit over existing setup. Used a hardened 6" long 1/2" bolt and 4" long handle to thread on one end. Cut off bolt head and threaded end to fit into aluminum adapter. Very rigid setup.
Using air lube feed is good but not mandatory.
A heated base is a big plus. Lube just flows much easier. Made my own 3/4" aluminum base and drilled for heating element from, {McMaster Carr}. Designed the controls for PID temperature control, Parts counter, Element on hour meter and Element On indicator. Of course an On/Off switch.
You will not regret the investment plus the ease and speed of a quality feed thru sizer.

[cajun shooter]

I've been casting since 1970 and that is when I used my first Star. They have several ways to skin a cat and I will give you some other choices that you may use.
You don't need a new Star from magma unless you are the type of person that is wanting to out do the Jones household. A used Star may be found for over $125 less than new. The Hycar washer that controls the pressure may be replaced for $7. The parts from a 1970 Star are the same as those on a 2015 model except the 1970 model has a set screw for the holding of the die and less O-rings.
You may also just purchase a 1/2 inch piece of aluminum that is at least 4x 10 inches and just set the Star on that and then hold it all down with a c-clamp on each side. This type of mounting allows you to move the Star around if you have limited bench room. You then need only a small travel iron to set on the mounting plate to use for lube heat. The temp controls on the travel irons are very accurate.
Out of all the extras that may be added to a Star, the bullet feeder is the least needed for a normal user. They are also the cause of many lost pieces of the hand by users.
The air control is by far the best addition, it will allow trouble free use. You also don't need a air compressor to run the Star with air. All you need is a 7 gallon air tank like those sold by Walley World in the automotive section. You don't use the air supply to make the press work, you just use the air pressure which if your fittings are done correctly with tape will last for months. I've had my tanks last 6 months with no air loss. Well the last thing is the lube reservoir, which is designed to work with the 4 inch long sticks. The Star has a weep hole in the back of the press and if this hole is covered you may use 6 inch long sticks which allows for longer work sessions. I've always used a strip of leather about I inch wide and a small hose clamp that fits around the lube cylinder. You may use any piece of rubber hose or tube as well. Well there is your other choice selections to consider. Take care David

[mongoose33]

I bought, and would buy again, the air kit Kyle sells. You need a regulated air supply but if you have a compressor w/ a regulator on it, you've got one.

Here's a recent thread to it:

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...sizer-air-kits

And FWIW: I can't recall where i saw it, but some people have automated the stroke so they need do little more than flip a switch and stick a boolet in.

[jroc]

cajun shooter I don't know how you figure the feeder is the reason for losing parts of a hand in my estimation it helps keep you hand out of harms way if you set it up right and use the tube. jroc

[Don Purcell]

I e-mailed Lathesmith a couple of days ago about one of his roller handles but haven't heard anything back yet, hope he still makes them.

[novalty]

Well I've sold off some of my equipment, and will be purchasing a Magma Star Sizer in the very near future. Just messaged Chris with some questions before placing an order for a .358 and .452 dies, top punches, and roller handle. I'll have to save up more for other accessories to add on as I see needed. Right now I am not sure how I should proceed with lube. I have about 8 hollow-tube sticks of TAC1 left over. Would prefer not to run a heater, but not sure if many have run TAC1 in their Star. Looks like a lot of people use White Label Lube's BAC, or Magma's Jake's Lube (Javelina).