Most are manufactured by same company with different labels. My first was a winchester. I laughed as instruction manual stated congratulations you have just purchased a and listed over half a dozen popular brands. Found it interesting as my winchester and one of the other brands listed was over 1k difference.
Our house is protected by the Good Lord and a gun and you might meet them both if you show up here not welcome son!
Lots of information on the web. Link below is as good as any.
http://www.6mmbr.com/gunsafes.html
I might add that one thing left out by those recommending a mechanical dial lock is Don't spin the dial. I did that on my safe and it changed the setting on each of the stop points by one half of a mark. I got really frustrated until someone here pointed out what could happen when you spin the dial fast.
Also, look at several high end safes. Almost all have external hinges. Lower quality, not lower priced, safes have internal hinges that have to clear contents. Can cause a problem when full of long guns. Most all these manufacturers tout internal hinges as a security feature. NOT!
John
W.TN
That's good info in the link provided by alamogunr.
Some food for thought, before you spend: http://gunsafereviewsguy.com/article...ft-protection/
Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.
If I ever get the opportunity, I will pour concrete with a lot of rebar, & add a door. Right now I have a 1000 lb liberty, with a dial. Very Happy
The rules of the range are simple at best, Should you venture in that habitat, Don't cuss a man's dog, be good to the cook, And don't mess with a cowboy's hat. ~ Baxter Black
"I purchased a safe door from an outfit in Ohio then built my own walk-in safe using 4 in. concrete blocks filled with mortar as I laid them. Door was concreted in place. The price of the door was less than 1/2 the price of a safe. My safe was in my basement and ended up being 6 Ft. wide by 12 Ft. long. Total cost at that time was less than $1600
Larry"
This^^^^ if I ever get the chance. Would be nice to just walk in and grab what you want with ease. Can double as a storm shelter also.
Cutter. The next house i will have a basement and so do that
This is true, but my wife can't open the dial safe's to save her soul. I have several of the Electronic and you can get a safe that will open with multiple systems (ie electronic or dial, Key and Dial, or all three) it just costs more.Originally Posted by lefty o
je suis charlie
It is better to live one day as a LION than a dozen days as a Sheep.
Thomas Jefferson Quotations:
"The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government."
The link in post #24 by JSnover was a full evenings reading but time will spent. Lot of solid information there. I knew some of this but what I did not know is that most so called safes are really classed as "residential security devices" because to be a safe it has to meet some pretty strict requirements. Insurance industry has some influence there.
If they can get it on it's back they can open it quickly. All their weight bearing down on a long pry bar is more than most gun safe doors can hold up to. Attached to a solid floor is a must. No room to work such as in a closet or corner is good too. Not in plain sight. If they don't find the safe.... they don't break into it. Really it is all about time. How much can you slow the thieves down.
If you have a lock and safe company in the area you may want to see if they have anything used. Can sometimes pick up a good deal used.
Beware of those fireproof document lock boxes. They sweat condensation and can totally trash your documents or hard drive if you don't take steps to prevent it. You might have descant in the main safe but if you put a fireproof box inside condensation will still take place inside the fireproof lock box.
Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this source of casting material somehow so we added an "S" to what non casters and wives call what we collect.
Kind of hard to claim to love America while one is hating half the Americans that disagree with you. One nation indivisible requires work.
Feedback page http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...light=RogerDat
Hmm good thought. Both on the condensation and on the used safe.
I'm in the process of reading the material referenced by JSnover(very detailed, very complete). A high end safe co. mentioned in that material is Graffunder(http://www.graffundersafes.com/produ...es-weapon.html). Their site doesn't list prices. I think I know why. Another company, probably in the same category is Brown Safe Co. (http://www.brownsafe.com/). They do list prices on their site.
Someone early in this thread mentioned they owned a Heritage safe. That is what I have too. If I had it to do over, I probably would move up a step or two, maybe to a Sturdy. Their website leaves a bit to be desired but the basic information is there.
A basement safe room is probably the ultimate but at my age I won't be doing that. I have close neighbors that would alert law enforcement if there was suspicious activity around my separate shop building. Also, very few people know that I have guns in my shop. I don't advertise.
John
W.TN
Fortunately for me my neighbor is 2 acres away or more. Also they all own and shoot in their yards. My closest is fbi.
I'm not sure why that's fortunate from a security standpoint? A neighbor two acres away isn't close enough to hear guys banging away on your safe.
NRA Endowment Member
Armed people don't march into gas chambers.
Graffunder.
If you search Dakota gun safes on YouTube a local dealer has a lot of informational videos and a couple that were just for fun like when we blew one up with tannerite or when we shot one with a ma deuce.
Just bought a Cannon Cannon series Safe at a Costco special sale for less then $1500 delivered to the basement. Hold 36 rifles. It is 40w 32d 59h. Has a programmable E lock and a manual dial. Nice features in the package.
http://www.cannonsafe.com/series/cannon/ca33.html#tab2
Don't put too much reliance on the fire department extinguishing your fire when they arrive. All of us on this site probably have quite a bit of ammo, or powder, or primers, etc. in the home. I know we all say that we have it properly stored, but I promise you, if you home catches fire, that stuff will burn, pop, explode depending on what and how much you have. When a fire department arrives and hears ammo going off, they simply go into "protective" mode meaning they are protecting themselves and adjacent property. I've seen some pretty good videos on how they can safely extinguish ammo fires, but most firefighters don't have very much training on these exposures.
Not disrespecting any fireman, but don't count on them putting out your fire before it damages your safe contents. If you are there when they arrive, tell them where your safe is located and have them direct a water source towards it. That might keep it cool enough to protect the contents. Also, don't rush in after the fire and open the safe to determine if the stuff is truly safe. Sometimes the contents reach a really high temperature and they are just waiting on oxygen (aka opening the door) to combust.
We had a local guy loose a nice collection (over 100 guns) in his house fire. All guns were kept in "top of the line" safes and were destroyed due to heat. Since the fire exceeded the ratings of the safes, the manufacturer did not stand behind the damage to the collection. I don't know the extent of the guys powder, primer, and ammo storage, but I heard the ammo alone was over 10,000 rounds and he reloaded them all, so go figure what he probably had on site.
Yeah one thing i worry about is my reloading habit. Causing issues as stated. Also how my fire department would handle that scenario. I have a military explosion proof steel box. But filling that with powder i think would just become a bomb
Lol nice
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