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Thread: Pulling Bullets

  1. #101
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trailboss View Post
    Rcbs inertia / kinetic hammer type puller piece of junk breaks collets , no warranty. Useless , useless
    just pulled a couple hundred with a Hornady (chosen because it was the cheapest one they had) kinetic puller - two hits got most - some military stuff I could not shift at all though - saved powder and projectiles for re use - I think a couple hundred more and this plastic hammer is toast but I am done so its ok.

  2. #102
    Boolit Master 15meter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by indian joe View Post
    just pulled a couple hundred with a Hornady (chosen because it was the cheapest one they had) kinetic puller - two hits got most - some military stuff I could not shift at all though - saved powder and projectiles for re use - I think a couple hundred more and this plastic hammer is toast but I am done so its ok.
    The rumor is that if you run old military rounds into a seater dia first to break the bullets loose, they will come out much easier, no matter which puller you use. Not tried it yet. Have a hundred+ 30's vintage 06 to try it on.

    After the 706 other projects get done.

    Been using an RCBS inertia puller for over 30 years, haven't broken it yet. I have worn out a couple of aluminum collets.

    Need to try the shellholder trick, that may be the solution to the cheezy collet.

    I've got a line on an automatic collet bullet puller that may make bullet pulling easier.

    If I get it and it works, I'll post the details.
    Last edited by 15meter; 03-15-2022 at 09:18 PM. Reason: If I could spiel, I'd be dangerous.

  3. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by indian joe View Post
    ÖI think a couple hundred more and this plastic hammer is toast but I am done so its ok.
    Lately Iíve been pulling a lot of reloads from unknown sources. Depending on the guy that loaded them some are crimped tighter than others. Factory loaded alway require more effort to pull, for me. So far the FA kinetic I bought four years ago is still in one piece. My fear is Iíll be half way through pulling down a batch when it gives up the ghost. Guess I should just buy a spare now.

  4. #104
    Boolit Master 15meter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alferd Packer View Post
    I think small tweezers would pull out a neck stuck gas check if you poke one side to tip it on its side in the neck.
    I use a piece of baling wire with a hook bent in the end. Hold the case upside down to get the gas check to the neck, stick the wire up through the neck and hook the check.

    Works way better than it has a right to, my only guess is it works as well as it does because it's real baling wire. Recycled from a bale of straw baled in an Oliver 60W baler.

    The best baling wire is used baling wire.

    And you can fix ANYTHING but a busted heart with baling wire.

  5. #105
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    [QUOTE=15meter;5371435]The rumor is that if you run old military rounds into a seater dia first to beak the bullets. Loose, they will come out much easier, no matter which puller you use. Not tried it yet. Have a hundred+ 30's vintage 06 to try it on.

    that is a classic "why didnt I think of that" ------- makes a whole lot of sense

  6. #106
    Boolit Grand Master

    gwpercle's Avatar
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    Breaking the crimp by seating deeper works like a champ . Done thousands of WWII 30-06 .
    Military surplus would sell belts of linked 30-06 ammo that was used in air craft machine guns , linked belts came in ammo cans ... can't get those any more ...every 5 th round was a tracer .
    Dirt cheap ammo but getting unlinked and bullets pulled was a lot of work ...
    You save a lot of work by "breaking the crimp: .
    Gary
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    " Let's Go Brandon !"

  7. #107
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    I have RCBS collet and inertia pullers. I rarely use the collet puller as most of the pulling I do is with cast. The inertia puller I have is around 40 years old and after wearing out two or three sets of collets I found out about using shell holders instead. As far as breaking or not being able to pull bullets well, technique is very important. Holding the handle firmly like you would a hammer will break it eventually. The harder you hang on to the handle the quicker it will break and the less effective it will work. Hold it with just your fore finger and thumb loosely allowing it to rebound freely. This does three things 1. It keeps your hand from forcing the puller head into the "anvil" via the handle putting a lot of pressure on the head handle junction. 2. The rapid rebound adds inertia affect for bullet/case separation. 3. It allows a very fast puller head speed for more inertia and less head/handle stress.

  8. #108
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    Mal Paso's Avatar
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    Every Time I come to Cast Boolits "Pulling Bullets" is the First Thread I See!

    Just a Hint. You will NEVER get any kind of velocity pulling bullets. Pushing them is much better and most of the rest of this forum is dedicated to just that.
    Mal

    Mal Paso means Bad Pass, just so you know.

  9. #109
    Boolit Master 15meter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mal Paso View Post
    Every Time I come to Cast Boolits "Pulling Bullets" is the First Thread I See!

    Just a Hint. You will NEVER get any kind of velocity pulling bullets. Pushing them is much better and most of the rest of this forum is dedicated to just that.
    But when you are a bit slow on the uptake, (like me) sometimes you have to resort to "error remediation".

  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by 15meter View Post
    I use a piece of baling wire with a hook bent in the end. Hold the case upside down to get the gas check to the neck, stick the wire up through the neck and hook the check.

    Works way better than it has a right to, my only guess is it works as well as it does because it's real baling wire. Recycled from a bale of straw baled in an Oliver 60W baler.

    The best baling wire is used baling wire.

    And you can fix ANYTHING but a busted heart with baling wire.
    ALMOST ANYTHING . Duct tape does the rest !

  11. #111
    Boolit Master 15meter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shooterg View Post
    ALMOST ANYTHING . Duct tape does the rest !
    In the boating world it's referred to as stainless steel rigging tape.

    Well, the color is sorta right and it doesn't rust

  12. #112
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    Ive used the vice grips on top of press..and have plastic inertia jobbie and I too use shell holders...the ones that come with a LEE auto prime NOT the ones for the press.....havent had any issues yet...must try the nipper idea as I can feel a cast boolit pulling session coming soon if I cant get the 'problem child " to behave soon.

    now this spontanious detonation of primer thing......
    years ago when still getting someone else to load for me,a primer got jammed,I was all nervous about it going off,so fella took it out,put it in a vice and squashed it flatter than a flat thing,no detonation,he then lightly tapped the vice with a hammer and it went off.
    last week I had a primer not fire despite a double hit with firing pin,so I popped it out of shell in press CAREFULLY and took it out to wood shed,placed it on small piece of metal and hit it gently with back of hammer....it was LOUD... my poor ears were still ringing hours later... so in the interests of peacekeeping,here is my theory.
    maybe what happened in the case of primer going off in inertia puller is something like this....
    the primer got squished somewhere along the line,seating being the most probable,or a jam in gun maybe??? a stuck round with 2nd tried to chamber behind it??? and this round with munted primer put in inertia puller and given a golly good smack,did the rest...chances are it would have done eggzachary the same thing with the stupid fiddly plastic triangles and rubber Oring.....

  13. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by 15meter View Post
    In the boating world it's referred to as stainless steel rigging tape.

    Well, the color is sorta right and it doesn't rust
    here in Godzone its called hundred mile n hour tape...came from its use holding munted rally cars together...

  14. #114
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    GONRA sez - primers are tricky! Be careful!

  15. #115
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    M-Tecs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 15meter View Post
    The rumor is that if you run old military rounds into a seater dia first to break the bullets loose, they will come out much easier, no matter which puller you use. Not tried it yet. .
    Not a rumor. Pulled maybe 10K of M118 173 gr FMJ's for Mexican Match. Break the bullet seal and pulling was noticeably easier when using the Forster Superfast (Possum Type) Bullet Puller https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012693079

    https://snipercentral.com/history-m1...0Mexico%20City.

    ‘Mexican Match’ was made by using military 7.62 brass and loading it with the Sierra 168gr Match King bullet. The name ‘Mexican Match’ reportedly came about because the first time this load was used was during the PanAm games in Mexico City. The accuracy improvement over the M118 Match ammo was remarkable, often shooting as much as 50% tighter groups. Because of these results a new load was developed called the M852.
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check