Taking the plunge!

[mmesa005]

Hello All,

I started reloading @ 3 years ago and I think I have built a pretty good foundation to start reloading using cast boolits. My plan is to cast in .380 / 9mm / 45 acp using Lyman 2 cavity molds.
For .380 I would use the 356242 mold (that all there is?), for 9mm 356402, and for 45 acp 452630. I am also planning for a Lee Precision 20 pound furnace and a Lyman 4500 Lubrisizer with heating element. I like the option of placing the mold under the furnace and fill from below vs. using a dipper.

What I am very curious about is how to make "Hard Cast Boolits" vs. cast boolits. I would appreciate being educated as to the pluses and minuses of the two. I did some reading regarding coated boolits but that seems like a larger process than I care to get into at this time.

Thanks to all!

mmesa005

[sigep1764]

Hard cast usually follows the Lyman #2 alloy formula with regards to the amount of tin, antimony, and lead in the mix. But most here will tell you fit is king. Size the boolits a thousandth or two over bore diameter and use a softer alloy, more lead vs antimony. A popular blend is 50/50 wheel weight to pure lead ratio, resulting in softer alloy and let's you use more of the lead thats available to a person. Adding tin helps with hardness a little but it's main use is helping to fill out the mold completely and to give flat boolit bases. It all depends on the caliber you're casting for and It's intended use. Did I miss anything guys?

[Yodogsandman]

"hard cast" is a marketing phrase that just means a bullet is harder than pure lead.

[mmesa005]

sigep1764, Yodogsandman,

Thank you both!

[pworley1]

You have picked some good molds to start with.

[mmesa005]

I am rethinking the Lyman Lube sizer for a RCBS. I read that the Lyman can leak?

[lar45]

For Wheel Weights you can get basically soft or hard bullets.
For a softer bullet, drop the bullets from the mold onto a soft cloth and let them cool down in the air.
For a harder bullet, get a bucket of water, put a sponge in the water so it floats on top, drop the bullets from the molds onto the sponge. They will sizzle a moment, then roll off into the water. the purpose of the sponge is to let the bullets cool some before falling into the bottom of the bucket and on top of the ones that are already there. If you don't use the sponge, then you can end up with dents and dings on your bullets.
There is a whole lot of ground not being covered by this, but this is the basics of hard and soft with Wheel Weights.
Hope this helps.
Glenn.

[mmesa005]

This is great! I appreciate all the advice and tips!

[bdecker9]

You could really start with the molds and furnace. Or one mold. Make sure it's for you kind of thing. I had to buy one piece@ a time,because I'm a poor man, so I got a mold and Lee dip ladle, used the side burner on my grill to feel it out. But getting bottom pour furnace REALLY helped things along. Way faster for me. I used Lee liquid alox for a while, with good results.
Casting requires a little different kind of attention than does reloading. Don't let this deter you. I love it. I can shoot 50 9mm for 2$. Saving the brass that is.
Just make sure to slug your barrel. Do it yourself, it's easy, just take your time, it will take about 90% of the guess work out of it.

[jkcerda]

I am rethinking the Lyman Lube sizer for a RCBS. I read that the Lyman can leak?

Have you considered powder coating instead?

[boho]

I started with the 356242 mold for my 380 & 9. The 120 grain bullet didn't shoot well in my 380 & my 9 barrel slugged .357 and I had leading issues due to that. I ended up using the Lee 356-102 for the 380 which turned out surprisingly well. I use a Noe 359242 for my 9 and 38 special. I have seen many guys with lots more experience than me post that a 120 grain truncated cone mold is a good way to go. We will probably be hearing from them soon.

[mmesa005]

I have been rethinking powder coating vs lubing. I am thinking I should go lube first them try powder coating after I get some experience under my belt? I also appreciate the advice about starting small and the different mold recommendations!!!

[jkcerda]

Whete in CA are you? I can send you some powder & BBs so you can try out if you like, free. Foto joe was kind enough to send me cast bullets to mess around with when I was thinking of getting started , figured I'll pay it forward .

[mmesa005]

That would be super! I will PM you my address

[Atlast357]

Another Calif resident also,I am in the early stages of creating my own Boolits.
Early means thinking about it.

[jkcerda]

Another Calif resident also,I am in the early stages of creating my own Boolits.
Early means thinking about it.

Where in SOCAL are you? I just started today but I'm happy to help you out if I can

[Atlast357]

Where in SOCAL are you? I just started today but I'm happy to help you out if I can

Just down the road in Riverside.

[jkcerda]

Just down the road in Riverside.

PM sent, I don't want to hijack this thread much

[Foto Joe]

I am rethinking the Lyman Lube sizer for a RCBS. I read that the Lyman can leak?

If your 4500 leaks it's more than likely due to improper operation than a manufacturing defect. Mistakes such as using the heater when it's not needed will cause the lube to bypass on the H&I die, it's an easy cleanup and the fix is to either not use the heater on certain lubes or to unplug it once things get warmed up. The other trick is to release the pressure by reversing the piston when you're done. Letting it sit there under pressure will cause lube to seep around the H&I piston.

Neither issue is a deal breaker and easy to prevent. There is a learning curve on a 4500 but no more than any other method.

[mmesa005]

Foto Joe ,

Thank you, I feel better about the 4500 now