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Thread: M1 Garand loads??

  1. #61
    Boolit Master
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    I have gotten away with neck sizing only for my Garand, when reusing my own brass. But, I do single load and always check to make sure the bolt is closed good. Maybe that'll change after a few more firings and I'll have to full length size then. I use generic RCBS FL dies for the '06.

  2. #62
    Boolit Master GrizzLeeBear's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by madsenshooter View Post
    Yea, I got a problem with the sight on mine. If I tighten the screw in the right knob enough that I can't push the sight down, then the windage knob won't turn. One click looser and I can, but again, I can push the sight down with my thumb. Tried disassembling, cleaning, lubing, same thing.
    Tighten the screw so that you can't push the sight down. Then try pushing on the screw (elevation side) with your left thumb while turning the windage knob with your right hand. Pushing on the screw with your left thumb relieves some of the pressure and allows the windage knob to turn while keeping the sight tight enough to not creep down under recoil.

  3. #63
    Boolit Master GrizzLeeBear's Avatar
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    Dualsport, most experienced Garand (and other semi-auto rifle shooters) HIGHLY recommend that you full length size all brass for semi-autos. Any semi-auto with a heavy floating firing pin, like the Garand, have the potential to set off a round (usually with a high primer, etc) when the bolt slams shut, aka "slam-fire". While this is obviously scary, it is not by itself disaterous if the rifle is pointed in a safe direction as it should be. However if the brass is not fully sized it could produce enough resistance that the gun is out of battery when it slam-fires, and that IS as serious problem that will cause damage to the rifle and possibly the shooter.
    Also, most slam-fires occur during single loading. Because the round is not being stripped out of the magazine (which absorbs some of the energy, slowing the bolt) it closes with more force, increasing the likelyhood of a slam-fire. I'm not suggesting that you don't single load, we do it all the time during Highpower matches. But I am encouraging you to full length size all your brass for semi-autos.

  4. #64
    Boolit Master
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    Dang! Now you got me thinking. I neck size for the increased accuracy potential and case life, even was thinking of trying a Lee collet on these cb Garand loads. It won't take any longer to FL size, I'll think on this a bit. I think there's a fine line when trying to shoot cbs in a Garand between typical accuracy tricks like seating out to touch the lands for instance. I have been careful to make sure my loads don't hang up before the bolt closes where with a bolt action I'd usually want a little engagement with the lands. I think the answer is going to be selling the Garand and getting a nice 03-A3. Better for what I do anyway. In the meantime I'll FL size my next batch for safety's sake and compare the accuracy. Brass life isn't that big a deal to risk anything over. I can get 1,000 30-06 cases from Bartlett's for a reasonable price.

  5. #65
    Boolit Master madsenshooter's Avatar
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    I've set mine up to size the least amount. The rounds worked well in both my Garand and my Madsen, so I didn't have to keep them seperate. I smoke the neck and set it back just a couple thousandths. Using benchrest primers, I have had one slamfire in thousands of rounds. That was with an M1A. I had the rifle pointed at the ground, dropped the cartridge fully into the chamber and let fly the bolt. It was a surprise! I nearly shot the tire on my car! Could be it had a high primer, but I doubt it, that's something I habitually check, even when loading for something other than an autoloader.

    Thanks Griz, that does work, a little awkward on the line when in prone, but better than not moving it at all.
    Last edited by madsenshooter; 12-07-2010 at 11:33 PM.
    "If people let the government decide what foods they eat and what medicines they take, their bodies will soon be in as sorry a state as are the souls of those who live under tyranny."

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  6. #66
    Boolit Master GrizzLeeBear's Avatar
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    madsenshooter, glad I could help. I had the same problem this summer with mine. I just got it last winter, so this summer was the first season I shot the Garand. It would move down a notch about every 2 - 3 shots.
    I hadn't learned how to properly tighten it before our local clubs Garand match. During slow prone I kept an eye on it after each shot, so I could move it back up if needed, which it did 3 or 4 times, and managed a 95 or 96. Knowing that it would move down during rapid fire prone I had an idea. I moved the sight up 2 clicks and used a 6 oclock hold (I normally shoot a center of mass hold) and fired my first two rounds - PING! - reloaded and tried for a low COM, or "flat tire" hold for the next two, then gradually work the front blade up the black for the remaining shots, ending up with the last two covering the black with the front sight. The target came back up with a nice round group centered on the target! Score was 93 or thereabouts! During standing slow fire, I moved the sight back up to my normal zero since it had crept down again during rapid prone. Keeping an eye on it after each shot again I managed a solid 92 in "awfulhand" for a total score of 281, which was good enough for a gold medal and the high score for the match!
    In talking with one of the more experienced HP shooters in the club after the match (who has been to Perry 34 times!), he taught me the trick to keeping it tight and using pressure on the opposite side of the screw when adjusting windage. Now it stays put. I know this wasn't Camp Perry, but it sure was satisfying to shoot such a good score with a loose elevation knob and some "yankee enginuity".

  7. #67
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    For resizing, the RCBS X-Die is on my shopping list. Because they have such generous chambers, I'm not getting the Small Base version. If it works as advertised, it should give long case life while still allowing full-length resizing.
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  8. #68
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    I've been using the X-Die with my Garand with excellent results. I'm shooting 34 grains of 4895 under a 311299 sized .310 and lubed with Carnuba Red.
    I've been using my Garand in the Military rifle silhouette match here at Pala, and having tons of fun knocking down steel with it. A much more enjoyable past time than dull CMP matches...
    Last edited by Baja_Traveler; 05-17-2013 at 10:29 AM.

  9. #69
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    Went to the range today to try my first cast loads for my HRA SG. I loaded 8 each of 36, 37, 38, 39 and 40 grains of IMR 4064 behind a RCBS 308-165, sized .308, Hornady GC and FC cases. Cases were FL resized and expanded before loading. The 36 gr load shortcycled one , but all others ran fine. The 36 and 37 gr loads were wicked accurate, about 2" at 100 yds. Groups opened slightly as charges went up, the higher the charge the larger the group. Interesting was the fact that with NM ammo I cannot shoot groups this small.

  10. #70
    Boolit Bub
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    I came across this forum via a google search. I liked it so much I decided to join! I wrote the Bob S load down and I plan to try cast bullets for the first time in my Garand! very excited about cast....

    Great thread!

  11. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by new2cast View Post
    I came across this forum via a google search. I liked it so much I decided to join! I wrote the Bob S load down and I plan to try cast bullets for the first time in my Garand! very excited about cast....

    Great thread!
    AWESOME!! WELCOME!!! This place is amazingly helpful.

    After 25 years of casting and reloading, including owning my own casting and reloading business for awhile, I was amazed at how much more I could learn from these guys here.
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  12. #72
    Boolit Master Bert2368's Avatar
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    The snow on the range has receded.

    42 gr of IMR 4831 topped with a tuft of Dacron behind an RCBS 308-200 Sil sized .310. Both the Garand and '03 Springfield seem to like this- Without the Dacron the groups were nearly twice as wide. The ammount of unburnt powder laying on the tarp I put out to catch the brass on was impressive...

    "Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away."

  13. #73
    Boolit Bub
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    It's been awhile since I last read through everything but I have been considering true economy load for the Garand.

    I know that the 13 grains of red dot works really well for .30 bolt gunners....why not in the Garand?

    I'm pretty sure it won't cycle which can be an advantage (increased brass life)

    I was going to pop a 200 or 210 boolit on 11 grains of red dot and work my up (no filler).

    What do y'all think?

  14. #74
    Boolit Master


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    I think your concept is sound. I've never shot that light of a load in the Garand, so I'm not sure how much the action will open up. I'm sure there is some "middle-ground" where the action will open just far enough to partially eject the case and then close on same, thereby crushing the mouth. I rather agree with you that the Red Dot load would be too light to get there, though...

    For my super-light load, I shoot 7.5grs of W231 with a 185gr boolit and no dacron. So far, I've shot this only in my '03 Springfields, but I can tell you that these fast-powder/low-velocity loads will drop really fast, so that they're not much use past 50 yards. In addition, without the dacron (and possibly with), there can be verticle stringing, simply because there's so little powder in the case that ignition is erratic. (This is not to say inconsistent. My super-light loads have always gone "bang" with no hang-fires or misfires, but my theory is that the small charge of powder burns differently from one shot to the next, depending on how it catches fire and burns. This is only partially related to where it is in the case, though the dacron -- or tipping the muzzle up in between each shot -- does make it better.)

    I wonder how the "classic" 16.0grs of 2400 does as far as cycling the mechanism in the Garand? It might be getting close to that mouth-pincher, but, again, I haven't tried it in the M-1 yet.
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  15. #75
    Boolit Master Cadillo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeG70 View Post
    Hey Guys, Can one use Winchester's 165 gr soft point ammo in my M1 and not damage the operating rod?
    I would not try it. Operating rods are expensive to repair or replace. If you want to shoot commercial ammo, get yourself a Schuster Gas Nut, and follow the instructions that come with it. Then you can shoot any ammo without regard for gas port pressure as long as the chamber pressure is within spec.
    There is some ammo and more ammo. There is never enough ammo!

  16. #76
    Boolit Buddy
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    I will be getting a SA Garand from CMP with a new barrel.
    And have bought a group buy mould 311365
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=108231
    I was going to size to .309 and use Red Carnuba and use 36 grains of IMR-4350
    Does this sound like it would work? Also what would be a good Over All Length?

  17. #77
    Boolit Buddy 30CAL-TEXAN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 340six View Post
    I will be getting a SA Garand from CMP with a new barrel.
    And have bought a group buy mould 311365
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=108231
    I was going to size to .309 and use Red Carnuba and use 36 grains of IMR-4350
    Does this sound like it would work? Also what would be a good Over All Length?
    I am currently working up my M1 load for this boolit.

    I have been sizing to .311 but this will depend more on how your bore slugs than anything else. If it is supposed to be a new barrel and it is truly .300/.308 than sizing to .309 should be fine.

    Caranuba Red is exactly what I have been using and so far I think it is great. I am also going to try BAC later this summer.

    I have never used 4350 so I can't help you there, all of my M1 loads been with 4064 or 4895.

    I have tried a couple of overall lengths and my final choice has just been to seat to the crimp groove. While this does leave the gas check slightly below the case neck I have found that seating it out any longer (in my rifle at least) leads to quite a bit of boolit nose damage.

  18. #78
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by 30CAL-TEXAN View Post
    Caranuba Red is exactly what I have been using and so far I think it is great. I am also going to try BAC later this summer.
    having used both, I would say that Carnuba red is the better of the 2.

    I used BAC 1st, then switched over to the Red, and won't go back.

  19. #79
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stoats View Post
    having used both, I would say that Carnuba red is the better of the 2.

    I used BAC 1st, then switched over to the Red, and won't go back.
    I did the same even got rid of the last 12 sticks of BAC I use Red in everything now!
    The even the slow 45acp does well with it. It is much cleaner shooting, does not gun up the bullet seating dies and after a few days of lubing bullets is not sticky any more.
    Do wish he had a 100% non sticky formula
    Last edited by 340six; 04-27-2011 at 01:18 PM.

  20. #80
    Boolit Master Digger's Avatar
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    Yes , agree 100 % , .. this is a good thread for info ....
    Didn't realize there were so many 308 garand people around.
    Been paying attention to BruceB 's thread about his series of sessions with his M1-a quite a bit.

    I have a fun little piece that I am looking forward to setting up for this summer , .. a Arlington Ordnance M-1 308 "tanker" .... Loads of fun at the range let me tell you ...
    I know it's not a garand for all the purist out there but it has been shooting the surplus very nicely and now that I have my casting and shooting down pretty good for my hand gun calibers I am looking forward to putting some cast thru my garand ........
    This thread is going to help out a lot as I have to pick up a mold , dies , brass ... etc. , with all the tips given out here I am getting pumped !
    Keep up the information flow guys ! ....... thanks

    digger

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check