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Thread: Whats the easiest way to clean your bore?

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy rufracer's Avatar
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    Whats the easiest way to clean your bore?

    I need an new method. Whats the best, common solvent?
    "Give to caesar what is caesar's, and give to God what is God's." The Christ

  2. #2
    Boolit Master At Heavens Range 1945-2008 brshooter's Avatar
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    Really need to know what you are shooting, cast or jacketed, black or smokeless powder, cal or gauge? All have different techniques and they are a little different. Forgot, how clean you want to get it?

  3. #3
    Boolit Master fourarmed's Avatar
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    Assuming cast and smokeless, Kroil is about all I use anymore.

  4. #4
    Boolit Bub
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    cleaning

    For jacketed I use WipeOut,for cast I use either Eds Red or Kroils

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    Whats the best, common solvent?
    Eezox ... http://www.eezox.com/
    Tried it 6 months ago and I'm convinced - there is none better for white and blackpowder loads, lead and jackets.

    As for their claim about preventing rust, I coated a piece of steel with it and left it outside for 4 months ... I live next to the Atlantic Ocean. Just a few real light rust marks
    Regards
    John

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    Ed's Red is as good as any, and you can make a gallon for about the price of a small bottle of commercial solvent. Ed's equal parts of kerosene, mineral spirits, acetone, and transmission fluid with a squooch of lanolin dissolved in it.
    Sometimes you gotta wonder if democracy is such a good idea.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    Ed's doesn't do much about the copper though.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    Ed's Red is an organic solvent for organic residue from lubes and powder. It won't do anything for copper fouling except give you really clean copper fouling. Ammonia such as Wally World variety Parson's Ammonia will remove copper fouling. I use a wet patch of it through the barrel about every 10 to 15 minutes until they come out without any color on the patches. For lead, its a bronze brush.
    "Time and money don't do you a bit of good until you spend them." - My Dad

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy Wicky's Avatar
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    Hoppes #9 does it for me. If it's really bad then a quick soak with Sweets will do the trick mainly for copper. Just don't leave it in the bore too long, I work on 10 minutes at a time. Also have used Brasso on my range rifle after sweets - comes up really nice and is gentle on steel.
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  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Hoppes #9 is good for fouling and copper, but slow on copper. Butch's
    Bore Shine is also good. Fast copper removal is with Barnes CR-10, but
    it doesn't take out the powder fouling.

    Ed's Red doesn't seem to do anything to copper, and seems only fair at
    powder fouling to me. Hoppe's Elite (new, high tech water based powder solvent)
    seems to take out stuff that none of the petroleum based solvents will
    get, has zero odor. I love Hoppes #9 smell but some women hate it.

    Bill
    If it was easy, anybody could do it.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master S.R.Custom's Avatar
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    Lead: Dry bronze brush.

    Copper: Sweet's 7.62 on a plastic brush, swab with dry patch, repeat until no green shows on the dry patch. That's followed by a thorough brushing and hosing out with spray carburetor carb/choke cleaner to get the sweets and remaining powder fouling out.
    “If your only tool is a hammer, then all your problems start to look like people who need to be beaten with a hammer.”

  12. #12
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    Ditto post #8 by Shooting on a Shoestring.

    I gave up using propriety cleaning products many years ago, I used to be a Hoppes fan, does as advertised and great smell, but the price was too much.

    Some one tipped me off to Ed's Red or an equivalent as it wasn't called that then but when I came across Ed's recipe it was similar.

    As ammonia is the active copper removing ingredient in most cleaners I buy that as household ammonia 10% strength from any hardware shop.

    What I do is nylon bristle brush and patch the bore turn about with Ed's Red and then ammonia leaving it no longer than 10 minutes to soak for the ammonia as some one said too long in there will damage the barrel.

    I've used this for years and it does the job effectively and cheaply, I don't go for the unfired barrel state but I do like to get the ammonia patches not coming out blue.

    In saying all this I've been given some Wipe Out and rate it highly as its squirt and leave, it's pricey so I'll need to see how far a tin gans.

    That covers condom bullets.

    For proper boolits I just use Ed's Red, in the event of leading Kroil and a really tight patch or Wipe Out.


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  13. #13
    Boolit Master




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    I have to agree with Fourarmed here. I use Kroil and a steelwool wrapped old bore brush for light leading and for normal carbon and powder soot I use kroil and a normal brush. Sometimes use MP7 which is an awesome cleaner and has no odor.

  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy rufracer's Avatar
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    lead smokeless is what I was origionally asking about, but am liking all of the info on copper fouling too.
    "Give to caesar what is caesar's, and give to God what is God's." The Christ

  15. #15
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    i havent found anything that works that great on lead fouling. Wipeout is about the best ive tried but even it seems no better then leaving some wd40 in the bore overnight. Abrasion is about the only way to deal with lead. Best thing ive done is quit worrying about what chemicals work and put that time into eliminating the leading to begin with.

  16. #16
    Boolit Grand Master Char-Gar's Avatar
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    I use Ed's Red to remove powder fouling. I use Sweet's 7.62 to remove metal fouling. I seldom have any lead, but when I do I use a brass brush wraped with 000 steel wool.

    With Ed's Red or Sweets I don't use a brush. Just wet and dry patches.

    I shoot very, very few jacketd bullets. With cast, I just use Ed's Red wet patches until they come out clean ( most often 4 or 5) and then a couple of dry patches. I will then run a damp patch with Breakfree on it to protect the barrel. I run a dry patch down the barrel before I go shooting again.

    If you get a new to you, used rifle and are cleaning the barrel for cast bullet use, I find I have to alternate Ed's Red and Sweets as the powder and metal fouling form a laminate in the barrel.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master

    Hip's Ax's Avatar
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    Lead and smokeless: Hoppe's #9 yellow label bronze brushes and patches

    Lead and black powder: moose milk and patches until they come out clean, Shooter's Choice and bronze brushes and patches then dress the bore with lots of oil

    Jacketed and smokeless: Shooter's Choice, bronze brushes and patches. Every so often Sweet's for copper.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master


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    When using cast bullets and smokeless powder in .475-inch revolvers, has anyone tried using [specify please] cleaning solution in an ultrasonic bath?

    If YES, is any gun equipped with an optical sighting device of any sort? If YES, do you take special care/precaution to protect the sight?
    It’s so simple to be wise. Just think of something stupid to say and then don’t say it. Sam Levinson

  19. #19
    Boolit Master mroliver77's Avatar
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    Eds red for powder fouling. I shoot almost all cast these days. Like Lloyed says I try to not lead a gun and fix it if I do. If I lead some when playing(testing) I use old brush with copper scrubbing pad wrapped on it. My cast guns will get a wet patch or two of Eds and set until shot again. A dry patch and make sure the chamber is dry and I am off. If I am to be shooting gun frequently it dont ever clean bore. I have a 22-250 that needs to be prepared for cast and I dont even have any copper remover. Guess I will look for some 10% ammonia.
    J
    "The .30-06 is never a mistake." Townsend Whelen

    "THESE are the times that try men's souls. The summer soldier and the sunshine patriot will, in this crisis, shrink from the service of their country; but he that stands by it now, deserves the love and thanks of man and woman. Tyranny, like hell, is not easily conquered; yet we have this consolation with us, that the harder the conflict, the more glorious the triumph."
    Thomas Paine

  20. #20
    Boolit Master
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    Agree with Lloyd on preventing leading. Nothing really acts on lead except some mechanical method; you just have to wear it away with something. I like ChoreBoy & JB. As for jacketed, the best there is is Montana Extreme 50BMG Copper Killer. It's at least twice as strong as 7.62 or Barnes but is an ammonia oil base so it doesn't harm steel even if you leave it too long. With a gun that doesn't lead Kroil will work great and I use it the most.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check