Snyders JerkyLoad DataWidenersLee Precision
Titan ReloadingReloading EverythingInline FabricationRepackbox
RotoMetals2 MidSouth Shooters Supply
Results 1 to 14 of 14

Thread: Brown and Sharpe Calipers

  1. #1
    Boolit Master



    RedHawk357Mag's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Duncan, Oklahoma, United States
    Posts
    525

    Brown and Sharpe Calipers

    Quick question. Wondering if anyone might have some experience with these. I bought a set of these off ebay a while ago as a back up set to a set of Staretts I have. When I got them what I would call the crystal was floating around in the box. I did some research and found a place back East that refurbs and performs service on measuring tools. I sent the B&S calipers in for service and put them away in my safe and thought nothing about them again. So yesterday I needed to measure something and the Staretts were in the house and the B&S were still in the safe so I got them out and Damn that wanna be crystal was laying in the box. So....my question is do I have a funky set of B&S? I was kinda taken back when I got them back from service and the same flimsy plastic sheet was covering the dial. I was led to believe that these were a very good brand of calipers but the protective cover on the dial looks to be something REALLY flimsy I will post a picture in the difference between the two calipers. Thanks.
    Ruger RedHawk 357 Mag 44 Mag GP100 Davidson Exclusive 5" Security Six 2 3/4", Speed Six 4"
    Smith Wesson 629 PP and 686 PP, 617

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    california
    Posts
    829
    Brown and Sharpe are a much better piece of hardware. It sounds like whoever did the repair took a shortcut and put the old crystal back in instead of replacing it. It should have had a new one. That crystal is only a couple of dollars, but takes a special tool to put it in. I think the last one I had replaced cost me about $7. There is a place called Tri-state instrument in Fort Wayne Indiana that does a good job repairing precision tools. As I now live in California, I use a local guy who does great work. There are usually shops or people around industrial areas to do this kind of work, so I suggest talking to a local machine shop guy and see if they use someone in the area. The shipping usually costs more than a crystal replacement. It is not that unusual. Unfortunately, Starret has been iffy for me over the years. Used to be 40 years ago you could count on their quality. I have a set of starret dials I purchased in "71". They have been repaired from dropping about four times. They are still a great pair, but some of the new stuff didn't work right out of the box and had to be replaced. I prefer B&S when I can get them. Mitutoyo has also been spotty for me. A brand new electronic set I purchased 3 or four years ago is only accurate within 3 or 4 thou depending what size you are checking. Mitutoyo wanted within $10 of my original purchase price to fix a problem that was there from the day I opened the box. They also have good stuff, but that one wasn't. Find a REPUTABLE person to put in a NEW crystal, and you will have a good tool for a long time. If you can't find someone, PM me and I can put you in touch with the guy I use.

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master
    bangerjim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    out of here, wandering somewhere in the SW.
    Posts
    10,163
    Any good local watch repair shop should be able to pop that round crystal right back in place. I have one of the crystal "seaters" I use for my antique repair work. And when the do, make sure the put a tiny bead of cyo glue around the rim

    banger

  4. #4
    Boolit Master



    RedHawk357Mag's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Duncan, Oklahoma, United States
    Posts
    525
    Thanks for the advice, especially the glue advice wish I would have done that. Got to looking at the starett its plastic as well. Will go check the machine shop and see who they use.
    Ruger RedHawk 357 Mag 44 Mag GP100 Davidson Exclusive 5" Security Six 2 3/4", Speed Six 4"
    Smith Wesson 629 PP and 686 PP, 617

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
    historicfirearms's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Petoskey, MI
    Posts
    1,379
    I've had my set of B&S calipers for about ten years. Just a couple of hours ago I went to use them and my dial glass popped out. It appears to be plastic. Disappointing, because I've been very happy with them up until now.
    I was a dog on a short chain.
    Now there's no chain.
    Jim Harrison

  6. #6
    Boolit Master



    w5pv's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Orange,TX
    Posts
    2,672
    The dials on Starrett are plastic also,I never had one to pop out but have damaged them by dropping or some other way.
    Are my kids/grandkids more important than "o"'s kids, to me they are,darn tooting they are!!! They deserve the same armed protection afforded "o"'s kids.
    I have been hoodwinked but not by"o"
    In God we trust,in "o" never trust
    Support those that support the Constitution and the 2nd Amendant

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master
    bangerjim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    out of here, wandering somewhere in the SW.
    Posts
    10,163
    If they ARE plastic.....DO NOT USE cyano glue!!!!!! PERIOD!!!!!!!The fumes will cloud and totally ruin the plastic!!!!!! Been there.....done that. The Srarrett one I have is impact resistant glass, just like a pocket watch crystal. There is a mounting glue jeweler's use to glue in plastic crystals that will not cloud the plastic.

    I now use 100% digital.


    banger

  8. #8
    Boolit Master



    RedHawk357Mag's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Duncan, Oklahoma, United States
    Posts
    525
    Yes both of mine are plastic. 😣
    The Starett is definitely attached much better though.
    Ruger RedHawk 357 Mag 44 Mag GP100 Davidson Exclusive 5" Security Six 2 3/4", Speed Six 4"
    Smith Wesson 629 PP and 686 PP, 617

  9. #9
    Boolit Master ballistim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    where rocks are shot at & milk jugs, too...
    Posts
    945
    I still have the Starrett calipers that were issued to me when I went to work at a steel mill after I graduated in 1978, still going strong, have other newer ones but 9 times out of 10 grab these, they have always been flawless.
    “Men occasionally stumble over the truth, but most of them pick themselves up and hurry off as if nothing ever happened."

    Winston S. Churchill


  10. #10
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    East Tn
    Posts
    3,785
    Quote Originally Posted by bangerjim View Post
    If they ARE plastic.....DO NOT USE cyano glue!!!!!! PERIOD!!!!!!!The fumes will cloud and totally ruin the plastic!!!!!! Been there.....done that.banger

    Looks like I had company, been there and done that myself! Cayno glues are good for a lot of things and even some plastics but unfortunately the clear plastic used as cover lens is not one of them and it will be ruined by that stuff PDQ!

  11. #11
    Boolit Master roverboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Moss,Tn.
    Posts
    1,110
    I now use a set of Starrett calipers that work great but, I have used Brown and Sharpe and never had any problems with them. I've seen the crystal pop out on calipers but, it was cheap stuff. Hope you can get them fixed.
    Mrs. Hogwallop up and R-U-N-N-O-F-T.

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    115
    I personally like a thumbwheel so I to use Mit. and have had good luck buy a HF cheapie for the saw and loaning out save you good ones.
    Also the last pair of B&S I saw new had a silver plastic gearcase it looked just like the metal ones till you tapped them I don't know if they have two price ranges but they were definately plastic.
    I too have gone digital just handier as long as you always check zero.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master roverboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Moss,Tn.
    Posts
    1,110
    At work, me and the guy I work with usually just use Starrett dial but, we have a couple pair of Mitutoyo digital that we use too. I've had problems with digitals in the past, and don't use them much though.
    Mrs. Hogwallop up and R-U-N-N-O-F-T.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master



    RedHawk357Mag's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Duncan, Oklahoma, United States
    Posts
    525
    Took it to a jewelry shop today and he repressed the crystal and it's good as new. Apparently it wasn't fully seated when it got serviced or it got jarred in the mail.
    Ruger RedHawk 357 Mag 44 Mag GP100 Davidson Exclusive 5" Security Six 2 3/4", Speed Six 4"
    Smith Wesson 629 PP and 686 PP, 617

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check