See if this works! what do you think?

[Freightman]

I went to Harbor Freight this morning and they had a set of punches for $3.99 so I got them and came home and punched out some for the base of a Lyman 300 g .458 boolit, out of a Folgers plastic coffee can.Then laid them out on a flat serface and put a drop of super glue in the middle of each, then set the boolits on them. Going to tyry it may cause a problem cleaning up but might protect the base of the boolit.
What do you think? This is more fun than chasing cars!!

[joejr]

doesn't plastic have a lower melting point than lead?

[oneokie]

Smokeless or BP? Worth a try for a learning experience.

[leftiye]

As for cars, you'll probly catch more of 'em if you take them head on..............

[montana_charlie]

I assume that is a set of hollow punches.
Which one did you use to make the base wads...the 7/16ths?
CM

[Freightman]

That is right there are eight up to 1/2"
I also did a coke can for AL bases, we will se what happnes.
I get bored hitting the 10 and X ring every time need to change up things for variety. Life is to short to take seriously!

[JIMinPHX]

Federal used to make Ny-clads. They were a soft lead core with a Nylon jacket. Those shot pretty well & the barrel cleaned up real easily. I think that coffee can lids are usually LDPE, not Nylon. I’m not sure what plastic the sabots in the .30 cal Accelerator rounds from Remington are made out of. Let us know how that works out.

Thanks,
Jim

[Freightman]

This is not the lid i cut a piece of the side aprox 1/8" thick.

[Lead melter]

Over the past summer I read the Toby Bridges book, "Muzzleloading Big Game Rifles." He stated thet he got erratic results in his .50 caliber smokepoles in warm weather from loads that were very accurate in cold weather.

His trial an error solution was to trim the lower cup [read-against the powder] from a 28 gauge shotshell wad and place it between the powder and the sabot. With this technique his performance came back into the stable load as in cold weather.

I bought a bag of the wads from the local shooting club, about $8 for 500 and tried it, but could never get them trimmed just flush, so my results were not spectacular. With the use of a punch, it might be a bit easier to get a smooth cut.

Maybe you could give this a try. If you can't find any wads, send a PM and I'll donate some for experimentation.

[wills]

Low Density Polyethylene is sometimes used for BPCR wads, but the boolit is firmly seated against the powder and the wads are not glued to the base of the boolit, in fact a newspaper wad is usually used between a wad and boolit to prevent the wad from adhering to the boolit base.

[montana_charlie]

...and those wads (in .45 caliber) are .460" in diameter...not 7/16ths (.437").

I'd say your wads are too small to protect the corners of your .458" bullet bases.
CM

[mooman76]

I got some sheets of soft foam about 1/8" thick with a sticky backing I was going to try the same thing to. I just have to p/u some hole punches!

[Wayne Smith]

Buffaloarms.com has the proper sized punches, and has punches that you can mount on your press so you don't make so much noise! I use them in my 40/70 but not in my 44-40 with BP.

[Freightman]

I only tried it with a few to see if possable, thoes are PB boolits , Think ai will shoot them in my Buffalo Classic to see how it works. Thank uou for the information about punches at Buffalo Arms, will ck with them.
Actually bought the punches to put some holes in some leather.

[mroliver77]

One can use a sharpened case to cut also. I have used these frieghtman and they do help to reduce leading in a peestol I had that was prone to lead. I have used thin "cookies" (afraid I'll get flamed if I call them wads)from foam meat trays with good results. I also use the foam to hold powder to the casehead in 45-70 with plinkster loads. I have been chastised that I will ring my chamber. OK.
J

[Freightman]

Well you will not be the only one, and probley not the first.

[mroliver77]

Well you will not be the only one, and probley not the first.

My skin is not too thin.

[DLCTEX]

I would think the glue counter productive and unnecessary. The foam works well in shot cartridge loads, but these are low pressure. Experimentation is fun and I really hate it when someone tells me "that won't work" 'cause they obviously haven't tried it in every possible way, so hang in there and keep experimenting. let us know what you discover. Dale

[Bret4207]

doesn't plastic have a lower melting point than lead?

Yup, but there has to be enough time for the heat to melt it. The pressure may abrade or erode it, just as it does with lead, but the heat may not have time to actually MELT the plastic, or the lead for that matter. Been a pet peeve of mine for years that "lead bullets melt and that gives you leading". I don't think thats what happens. I think it's gas pressure erosion and vaporization that gives us leading, not heat itself.

This is just my opinion/theory and worth exactly what you paid for it.

[Bigjohn]

Been a pet peeve of mine for years that "lead bullets melt and that gives you leading". I don't think thats what happens. I think it's gas pressure erosion and vaporization that gives us leading, not heat itself.

This is just my opinion/theory and worth exactly what you paid for it.

That's my understanding of the situation, otherwise known as "Gas cutting" which can also occur on the top strap of a revolver above the cylinder gap.

This is also not the first time I have heard of using disks of plastic between the projectile base and powder charge. A fellow shooter I know in ADELAIDE is trying out the same thing in .38 Spl/.357 Mag. I don't know what his results have been like but he does not glue them on to the boolit. He just seats them level in the case mouth just before seating the boolits in place.

John